Why I'm not a professional mechanic

Started by AutobahnSHO, January 06, 2007, 06:48:51 PM

AutobahnSHO

It APPEARS my leak is gone....

(fingers still crossed- I need to clean up the mess that was already on the garage and check for sure..)
Will

S204STi

Those create such paranoia, I completely understand why you are so nervous.  Just keep an eye on your oil level, and recheck it next oil change! ;)

AutobahnSHO

Quote from: R-inge on January 13, 2007, 06:16:15 PM
Those create such paranoia, I completely understand why you are so nervous.? Just keep an eye on your oil level, and recheck it next oil change! ;)
Oh trust me I check them both frequently. It's habit with older cars.  ;)

I'm not paranoid, am I?  :lol:

I just hope I didn't waste my time/money.  I don't want to  :cry: but I really have to scrape to come up with $50 for carstuff from time to time.. (2 in diapers, one in 2nd grade, wife doesn't work, making $26k/year or $45k with the housing figured in (we don't see the rent money though..))
Will

S204STi

#33
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on January 13, 2007, 06:30:35 PM
Oh trust me I check them both frequently. It's habit with older cars.  ;)

I'm not paranoid, am I?  :lol:

I just hope I didn't waste my time/money.  I don't want to  :cry: but I really have to scrape to come up with $50 for carstuff from time to time.. (2 in diapers, one in 2nd grade, wife doesn't work, making $26k/year or $45k with the housing figured in (we don't see the rent money though..))

Nah, I don't think it's paranoia to replace a leaking oil pan gasket.  That sort of thing can get pretty bad.  When the dipstick tube broke off of the Focus I was losing 1/4qt every 200mi or so, and that is seemingly a small hole.  If the gasket got bad enough I imagine it could leak pretty decent quantities of oil, so I think you did the right thing.

When I mentioned paranoia I was referring to the drain plug...I hate the idea that I might have left one loose, and once it leaks I am always worried that it'll leak again.

I also understand the scraping part.  My wife and I have it easy because our only expense is our dog, along with the usual stuff.  My wife was not employed until just this week for a few months after we moved, and I don't make a lot of money either right now, so I tend to pick away at things.  I have a list of things a mile long to do to the Scoob, but my conscience won't let me when I look at my bank account...which I try not to do because it drives me to depression lol...

TBR

So where is the main seal? That is what the mechanic said was leaking if replacing whatever he replaced didn't work (still need to double check that).

S204STi

Quote from: TBR on January 13, 2007, 06:45:57 PM
So where is the main seal? That is what the mechanic said was leaking if replacing whatever he replaced didn't work (still need to double check that).
It is directly behind the main pulley on the front of the engine (driver's side I think on yours).  It is also behind the timing cover and the main sprocket for the timing belt, so you pretty much do the  timing belt, front main seal, and if it applies the water pump all at once.  May as well do the cam seal too.

TBR

I am confused. He said that the cam seal was leaking (and said not to worry about it because it wasn't much of a leak), but that he wouldn't be able to tell if the main seal was leaking until the distrubutor leak was fixed. But, they are on the opposite sides of the engine. 

Raghavan

There's a rear main seal behind the flywheel...

S204STi

Quote from: TBR on January 13, 2007, 06:52:20 PM
I am confused. He said that the cam seal was leaking (and said not to worry about it because it wasn't much of a leak), but that he wouldn't be able to tell if the main seal was leaking until the distrubutor leak was fixed. But, they are on the opposite sides of the engine. 

A lot of times oil leaks can creep, as it were, all over the place.  From the bottom of the engine it could look like oil is coming from everywhere.  I don't blame him for having his doubts, but he could put some inexpensive fluorescent dye in the engine oil and check it with a fluorescent light.  If the dye is obviously coming from the bottom of the timing cover then it could still be just the cam seal leaking, since that is above the crank/front/main seal.  Personally I would probably do the cam and front main seals whenever you do your next timing belt.  Or do you have a chain?  I dunno about Hondas.

S204STi

Quote from: Raghavan on January 13, 2007, 06:55:11 PM
There's a rear main seal behind the flywheel...

Good point brotha.  That one may be the one he is talking about, sorry I got a little confused.  In that case, yeah, I totally agree with him.  You have to fix the leak that is highest up before you can determine if it is coming from another point lower down.

TBR

Quote from: R-inge on January 13, 2007, 06:56:24 PM
A lot of times oil leaks can creep, as it were, all over the place.? From the bottom of the engine it could look like oil is coming from everywhere.? I don't blame him for having his doubts, but he could put some inexpensive fluorescent dye in the engine oil and check it with a fluorescent light.? If the dye is obviously coming from the bottom of the timing cover then it could still be just the cam seal leaking, since that is above the crank/front/main seal.? Personally I would probably do the cam and front main seals whenever you do your next timing belt.? Or do you have a chain?? I dunno about Hondas.

Timing belt with an interference engine.  :banghead:

Keeping in mind he quoted me $260 for the timing belt and cam seal, what would I be looking at for the rear main seal?

S204STi

Quote from: TBR on January 13, 2007, 07:02:04 PM
Timing belt with an interference engine.  :banghead:

Keeping in mind he quoted me $260 for the timing belt and cam seal, what would I be looking at for the rear main seal?

Quite a lot more.  You have to remove the engine from the vehicle to do the rear main seal. :frown:

Raghavan

Quote from: TBR on January 13, 2007, 07:02:04 PM
Timing belt with an interference engine. :banghead:

Keeping in mind he quoted me $260 for the timing belt and cam seal, what would I be looking at for the rear main seal?
Lots of labor so it's a lot of $$$. You need to remove the transmission ( a PITA in a FWD car) and the flywheel to get to the main seal in the back.
Maybe $1.5k? I don't know the exact price. You'd probably be better off replacing the car anyways.

TBR

You have to partially remove the engine to do the front one ;). But, above $500?

Raghavan

Quote from: TBR on January 13, 2007, 07:04:26 PM
You have to partially remove the engine to do the front one ;). But, above $500?
Most likely. A ton of stuff has to come out.

TBR

I still don't believe $1500, they didn't spend much more than that replacing the whole engine (I'll look at the receipt when I get home).

Raghavan

Quote from: TBR on January 13, 2007, 07:08:16 PM
I still don't believe $1500, they didn't spend much more than that replacing the whole engine (I'll look at the receipt when I get home).
Well, that's how much money my auto teacher said it'd cost to replace the clutch on a FWD car, so that's what i was going off of...
I hate FWD car to work on. You have to support the engine with a block of wood across the fenders and a chain around the engine.

TBR

I am sure California labor rates are much higher, plus actual part cost would be drastically lower with this job.

Or your teacher is just wrong, consumerguide estimates $520 for the clutch and $250 for the timing belt.

Raghavan

Quote from: TBR on January 13, 2007, 07:15:13 PM
I am sure California labor rates are much higher, plus actual part cost would be drastically lower with this job.

Or your teacher is just wrong, consumerguide estimates $520 for the clutch and $250 for the timing belt.
Maybe i'm remembering wrong, but that's what i thought he said. I don't think he's wrong though.

TBR

Like I said, a lot of it is probably regional differences (though I can't imagine that much of a difference). Consumerguide uses $50 as a labor rate, my mechanic charges $60 I think, and I believe most mechanics in CA are $100+.

Raghavan

It's like $110 or something here, but he said that it's more expensive to work on FWD cars though.

TBR

Yes, because it takes more time to do a lot of stuff. But the labor rate wouldn't be any different.

Raghavan

Quote from: TBR on January 13, 2007, 07:26:57 PM
Yes, because it takes more time to do a lot of stuff. But the labor rate wouldn't be any different.
Yeah, so i'm saying the total would be more expensive.

TBR

Yes, but the CG number is for my specific car.

S204STi

Quote from: Raghavan on January 13, 2007, 07:09:43 PM
Well, that's how much money my auto teacher said it'd cost to replace the clutch on a FWD car, so that's what i was going off of...
I hate FWD car to work on. You have to support the engine with a block of wood across the fenders and a chain around the engine.

You should really have a good metal engine support designed for that purpose.

The Pirate

Quote from: TBR on January 13, 2007, 06:52:20 PM
I am confused. He said that the cam seal was leaking (and said not to worry about it because it wasn't much of a leak), but that he wouldn't be able to tell if the main seal was leaking until the distrubutor leak was fixed. But, they are on the opposite sides of the engine. 


The cam seal was on it's way out on my car too.  I was due for a timing belt and water pump, so it wasn't a big deal, the engine was going to be work on anyway.

Don't wait too long though, if the cam seal leaks bad enough, it will allow the oil to come in contact with the timing belt, which will greatly shorten it's life.  And as Honda has the lovely :rolleyes: interference design, you definitely don't want the belt to get in too bad of shape.

I had a ton of stuff done to my car this summer (timing belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seal, new belts, etc.) and it was less than $600 before tax.  Honda is steadily switching over to a timing chain, I think just the Accord and Odyssey still have belts.
1989 Audi 80 quattro, 2001 Mazda Protege ES

Secretary of the "I Survived the Volvo S80 thread" Club

Quote from: omicron on July 10, 2007, 10:58:12 PM
After you wake up with the sun at 6am on someone's floor, coughing up cigarette butts and tasting like warm beer, you may well change your opinion on this matter.

TBR

I really just don't want to put too much money into it though, not if I am just going to get rid of it. I need to talk to the mechanic.

The Pirate

Yeah, but $250 for a timing belt change isn't a bad price at all.  Even if you were going to sell it, I'd get it done, and save the record to show a potential buyer.  I had the dealer change mine before I bought it.
1989 Audi 80 quattro, 2001 Mazda Protege ES

Secretary of the "I Survived the Volvo S80 thread" Club

Quote from: omicron on July 10, 2007, 10:58:12 PM
After you wake up with the sun at 6am on someone's floor, coughing up cigarette butts and tasting like warm beer, you may well change your opinion on this matter.

AutobahnSHO

I was quoted around $900 to replace the clutch in my SHO.  The rear main is only accessible once you get the tranny off, so I did it when I did the clutch.

I also ended up doing the front main, valve covers, and 2 cam seals but it still leaked a little...

Then I suffered "SHOboom" (probably a Google term) because a rod bearing failed and sent pieces of rod through the block and I didn't "get to" worry about it anymore...  :cry:
Will

rohan

Quote from: giant_mtb on January 07, 2007, 11:23:15 AM
Army self-help garages where you pay 5 bucks an hour to use a lift and tools?!? Wow...why isn't there anything like that around here?!? That's a GREAT concept.? I bet I could make a LOT of money starting a business like that around here...
Do you know how expensive tools are- good ones like mechanics buy not the cheap ones like we buy?  I don't but I know the guy who was looking at the mods on my car for me said his tool box- jus tthe tool box was $12,000 - that's American dollars not Pesos.  I can't even imagine how much a lift would be- $5 an hour wouldn't even pay your electric bill.
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