Vtec has finally kicked in yo!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160228/99a4f1563ac8f1a321f2fb68d591dc57.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160228/668a579632538cd2a29e4e2799f20df5.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160228/23c6a2adc1e9c3b2fe2033ffe25b4e21.jpg)
When's the first drift competition?
Pshhh
Bring it to race wars
Got 100 grand under the hood of that thing?
You owe us a 10 second car.
You guys will be glad to know my life at work is just Fast and Furious quotes now.
I want to do a F&F race around the entire 275 loop.
Too soon Junior
Cmon son. If you're going to pop the FNF quotes you gotta rice the car out like this:
(http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/fastandfurious/images/a/af/PinkHondas2000.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20110107183432)
Srsly tho, congrats man. :rockon:
Only 37k miles? Nice. 2.0l AP1?
Fuck, AP1s are hella raw. That is a good choice for you, congrats
nice. congrats!
Sweet car. What are you getting next?
Welcome to the club!
Good job H.
Man, in retrospect, "Race Wars" is a pretty terrible name for... anything.
Quote from: Rupert on February 27, 2016, 09:06:39 PM
Good job H.
Man, in retrospect, "Race Wars" is a pretty terrible name for... anything.
There was a lot of Asian v Black v White tension
It's no miata, but still pretty nice.
Congrats.
You should weld two crankcases together and make a VTEC V8
http://www.zerotohundred.com/2008/honda-to-introduce-v8-engines-in-2015/ (http://www.zerotohundred.com/2008/honda-to-introduce-v8-engines-in-2015/)
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 27, 2016, 10:35:01 PM
You should weld two crankcases together and make a VTEC V8
Or use two cranks and make it a U-8 like the Bugatti/King Moteurcannons
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bugatti_U-16
Pretty little car. Always liked them.
http://www.edmunds.com/mazda/mx-5-miata/2016/long-term-road-test/2016-mazda-mx-5-miata-the-s2000-problem.html
:wub:
That's actually the same conclusion I came to. I was pretty set on getting another NC. But on a whim I decided to check insurance on an S2000. It was an $18 a year difference between the two.
My must haves were a cloth soft top, a 6 speed, and LSD. Xenons were a nice to have. Basically meant I had to get a grand touring NC. A nice one is in the $12k range. For a few thousand more, I got something that'll hold its value more and has a more special valve train.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 27, 2016, 10:13:35 PM
It's no miata, but still pretty nice.
This is a good thing.....
Quote from: MrH on February 28, 2016, 07:47:13 AM
My must haves were a cloth soft top, a 6 speed, and LSD. Xenons were a nice to have. Basically meant I had to get a grand touring NC. A nice one is in the $12k range. For a few thousand more, I got something that'll hold its value more and has a more special valve train.
Nice ride! I always liked the styling of the S2000.........
VTEC is fun. No I really want to drive a S2000
Quote from: 68_427 on February 28, 2016, 10:24:58 AM
VTEC is fun. No I really want to drive a S2000
It's an acquired taste
Did you sell the BRZ?
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on February 28, 2016, 10:27:29 AM
It's an acquired taste
Experienced it first time driving my friends rsx-s and I thought it was a good time for an economy car
Take care of my next car
What's gonna suck is telling Mike I don't want to trade for the 4runner once I drive the shaggin waggin out to try the s2000
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on February 28, 2016, 10:35:04 AM
Did you sell the BRZ?
Yeah sold it back in November. Sold the Genesis on Christmas Eve and picked up a 4Runner. Now I've got this too.
Hopefully that spells the end of my car buying for some time. Unfortunately both vehicles are about the same color but oh well.
The 4runner should be brown soon enough
Same color? T minus 2 months before the next new car thread.
The 4Runner is a dark gray. The s2000 is a dark silver. I won't be selling though. If anything, I'd wrap the s2000
By dark silver you mean bright silver. It looks like plain old bright silver to me.
Neon pink wrap for the S2000
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 28, 2016, 05:12:30 PM
By dark silver you mean bright silver. It looks like plain old bright silver to me.
It looks like, depending on the year, they sold S2000s in three fairly similar colors of silver/metallic gray, in order of light to dark: Sebring, Silverstone, and Chicane (which apparently some people call moonrock?).
Since Mike's is a 2001, it must be the silverstone, which is the middle of the darknesses.
Here's a picture of a Sebring (left) and Silverstone (right) next to each other.
(http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=viewimage&img=15932)
Chicane was only offered for the final two years as a slightly darker replacement for Silverstone.
Details: http://www.toyotareference.com/guts/s2000/ (http://www.toyotareference.com/guts/s2000/) (Not sure why it's toyotareference, but info appears reliable).
His looks like the one on the left.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 28, 2016, 06:20:45 PM
His looks like the one on the left.
Well, if it's really a MY 2001, it's the one on the right. They didn't start making the one on the left until 2002.
His is definitely the Silverstone. It's what mine was. The Sebring silvers were slightly rarer, and the Chicanes were few and far between.
I always wanted a red one with tan/brown interior.
Or blue with tan/brown interior.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 28, 2016, 06:34:45 PM
Or blue with tan/brown interior.
I'm fairly certain that they only ever made the tan interior with the white exterior. I've thought about trying to find someone with a white/tan car who wanted black interior and swap with them, but never actually looked into it.
I want the all red interior but those are tough to find
Oh, and the vehicle is definitely silver stone and a 2001
I thought there was a tan and red combo. Could have sworn I saw one like that for sale.
(http://hondakarma.com/data/attachment-files/2015/02/64469_o_0c97a95328f6240c_025.jpg)
You have to preserve the car! They'll never make a car that good again. :cry:
Mike, I hope you hang on to this one for a long time. You're actually not an idiot and won't trash it like most ricers (including me... :mask: ) would.
Had my friend bought that car he would have thrown the soft top in the trash and thrown the radio and A/C out at the seller's house. :lol: :cry:
Quote from: thecarnut on February 28, 2016, 07:51:37 PM
Mike, I hope you hang on to this one for a long time. You're actually not an idiot and won't trash it like most ricers (including me... :mask: ) would.
Had my friend bought that car he would have thrown the soft top in the trash and thrown the radio and A/C out at the seller's house. :lol: :cry:
I'm buying it in 2019. Not a joke
Now that the hard work of finding a good one has been done, it would not surprise me if one of us does buy eventually.
Hmm, yeah, a quick search shows some pretty reasonable prices. Also a shit pile of rice and rebuilt titles...
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 28, 2016, 06:58:49 PM
I thought there was a tan and red combo. Could have sworn I saw one like that for sale.
Closest I can find are people who did interior swaps or the Gioire special edition, which is really a purple, not a red, and they only made 300 of:
(http://www.goo-net.com/carphoto/10201026_200210.jpg)
(http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/page__module__images__section__img_ctrl__img__651668__file__med)
Sweet interior though:
(http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/page__module__images__section__img_ctrl__img__651672__file__med)
Congrats. A fine choice. Much better than Miata.
Quote from: thecarnut on February 28, 2016, 07:51:37 PM
Mike, I hope you hang on to this one for a long time. You're actually not an idiot and won't trash it like most ricers (including me... :mask: ) would.
Had my friend bought that car he would have thrown the soft top in the trash and thrown the radio and A/C out at the seller's house. :lol: :cry:
Radio doesn't weigh enough to worry about.
:vapors: :vapors: :vapors: :vapors:
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 28, 2016, 10:56:22 PM
Radio doesn't weigh enough to worry about.
It's an easy couple of lb you can chuck out, along with the speakers.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 28, 2016, 10:56:22 PM
Radio doesn't weigh enough to worry about.
Radio and speakers and wiring is probably a solid 20 lbs. Depending on how dense dem magnets are.
5 lbs or 20 lbs doesnt matter. Its fuckin worth it
Quote from: 280Z Turbo on February 28, 2016, 11:50:38 PM
5 lbs or 20 lbs doesnt matter. Its fuckin worth it
No way. I need mah tunes. I've considered adding weight to mine to make the stereo better, but I keep having more important things to put money towards.
Quote from: giant_mtb on February 28, 2016, 11:25:03 PM
Radio and speakers and wiring is probably a solid 20 lbs. Depending on how dense dem magnets are.
LOL
Not this one.
Better get a custom sport bike exhaust. Superlight yo
Quote from: thecarnut on February 28, 2016, 11:21:47 PM
It's an easy couple of lb you can chuck out, along with the speakers.
Dude its like 10 lbs on a 2800lb car. S2K stereo is admittedly kind of shit though from what I remember.
Yeah the stereo is terrible. One of the speakers is blown too.
Here's my to do list to get it ready for spring:
-Tax title and registration still needs to get done
-New soft top
-New head unit, new component speakers, control module so the audio controls to the left of the steering wheel still work, maybe a small amp
-Phone mount and add a fuse phone charger (this thing has one power plug and it's in a bad spot
-brake pads and rotors (has track pads now that squeal and wake the dead)
-need to fit the rpf1s. Will likely need a slight fender roll in the front.
-change the fluids.
I think that's everything.
Does it have the bare metal shift knob?
If so, you might want to get one of the later, leather covered ones.
Trust me on this.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 29, 2016, 06:50:25 AM
Does it have the bare metal shift knob?
If so, you might want to get one of the later, leather covered ones.
Trust me on this.
+1. My Mazda had a metal plate on the top of the shifter. First hot and sunny day I had it I put my hand down on the shifter and seared my palm. Thankfully the rest was leather wrapped so I could at least touch part of it without getting burned.
If you don't burn your hand changing gears then it isn't a real racecar.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 29, 2016, 06:50:25 AM
Does it have the bare metal shift knob?
If so, you might want to get one of the later, leather covered ones.
Trust me on this.
Ha! I actually had a knock off version of this shift knob on the Protege5 a long time ago. I think I still have a gear shift pattern burned into my palm.
Finding a new OEM ap2 shiftknob looks to be harder than I realized.
Just get a fuzzy dice or a golf ball or something bro. If u do find an OEM AP2 knob keep it in a climate controlled glass case in a panic room.
$150 for a new OEM AP2 shift knob :cry:
This is going to cost me quite a bit to get this thing perfect.
What do you expect, these cars are pretty rare"ish". I wouldn't expect one to have as large of an aftermarket support system with an s2000 as you would with, for example, a miata.......... :lol:
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on February 29, 2016, 08:54:18 AM
What do you expect, these cars are pretty rare"ish". I wouldn't expect one to have as large of an aftermarket support system with an s2000 as you would with, for example, a miata.......... :lol:
+1
Miata shift knob is cheaper because it is the same P/N as the one for a 626/Protege/B2300/Escape/3/6/CX-5/Focus/Fusion/Mercury Topaz.
You know, you can buy a 10mm tap for about $10. Then, every loose pool ball in the world becomes a shift knob.
You could always try to leather wrap, paint, or plasti-dip the stock metal one.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on February 29, 2016, 06:16:20 AM
Dude its like 10 lbs on a 2800lb car. S2K stereo is admittedly kind of shit though from what I remember.
I don't remember which year they upgraded it, but they did at some point. Mine isn't fantastic but gets the job done. The early years were supposed to be pretty bad though.
Quote from: MrH on February 29, 2016, 08:12:28 AM
Finding a new OEM ap2 shiftknob looks to be harder than I realized.
It ain't cheap, but they have the leather wrapped ones here: https://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000-03int.html (https://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000-03int.html)
IDK, $150 for an OEM shift knob seems reasonable to me.
I am almost certain any other Honda shift knob will fit as well. TSX, RSX, TL, Accord V6, Civic Si all have 6 speeds, from what I remember are not all metal and are easy to find.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on February 29, 2016, 06:16:20 AM
Dude its like 10 lbs on a 2800lb car. S2K stereo is admittedly kind of shit though from what I remember.
Dude, when you're chasing every 10th of second on track, that's a lot.
I have a full metal shift knob. Never had a problem with it. California. :praise:
It's actually a Honda style shift knob too. :lol:
Quote from: thecarnut on February 29, 2016, 10:22:55 AM
Dude, when you're chasing every 10th of second on track, that's a lot.
I have a full metal shift knob. Never had a problem with it. California. :praise:
It's actually a Honda style shift knob too. :lol:
When was the last time you parked your car out in the sun with the top down?
Quote from: MX793 on February 29, 2016, 10:31:20 AM
When was the last time you parked your car out in the sun with the top down?
What is this "top down" nonsense you speak of?
Quote from: thecarnut on February 29, 2016, 10:35:51 AM
What is this "top down" nonsense you speak of?
You don't even really own a convertible anymore.
Quote from: Raza on February 29, 2016, 10:38:30 AM
You don't even really own a convertible anymore.
Yep. I've bolted the hardtop in place. It'll come out, but only with a lot of work.
Do you drive your car on the street anymore
You have to look at our cars the way you look at your bike
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on February 29, 2016, 11:34:10 AM
Do you drive your car on the street anymore
You have to look at our cars the way you look at your bike
Hey, I drove it on the street on Saturday. :rage:
I was datalogging my new tune. :mask: :lol:
Quote from: MX793 on February 29, 2016, 10:31:20 AM
When was the last time you parked your car out in the sun with the top down?
Doesn't matter in the least if the top is down. Shit gets hot. It gets hot with the top down and the car moving as well.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on February 29, 2016, 12:00:20 PM
Doesn't matter in the least if the top is down. Shit gets hot. It gets hot with the top down and the car moving as well.
The shade of a roof does help. Heating due to direct solar radiation can be considerable.
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2013/43/130/h130X960BHS-F.jpg)
I think that's the head unit I'm going. Do I get a really small 4 channel amp and some decent speakers then?
Id go md player or nothing.
Quote from: MrH on February 29, 2016, 07:38:53 PM
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2013/43/130/h130X960BHS-F.jpg)
I think that's the head unit I'm going. Do I get a really small 4 channel amp and some decent speakers then?
Can you get one with a CD player so all my burned discs won't be obsolete
I'm gonna guess that button in the top right allows the faceplate to swing down, exposing the CD slot. Removable (hinged) faceplates became pretty standard once they figured it's a great way to reduce theft.
Quote from: MrH on February 29, 2016, 07:38:53 PM
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2013/43/130/h130X960BHS-F.jpg)
I think that's the head unit I'm going. Do I get a really small 4 channel amp and some decent speakers then?
I'd try just the HU and some decent speakers first. If you're satisfied with that, $ saved. If not, find a 4-channel external amp.
I think I'd be better off with a 4 channel amp and ditching my subwoofer. But it's already set up so I'm not gonna change anything.
Quote from: MrH on February 29, 2016, 07:38:53 PM
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2013/43/130/h130X960BHS-F.jpg)
I think that's the head unit I'm going. Do I get a really small 4 channel amp and some decent speakers then?
No USB port? Junk.
Never replace just the head unit. If the stock system isn't some fucked up Bose system, then replace the speakers and get a 4 channel amp as well. Ebay is far and away the best deals in car audio. I have done stereo systems in all my vehicles but the Infiniti (fucked up Bose system), and even after trying 4 different brands of speakers in my Explorer, I keep coming back to Infinity Kappa series speakers for the best affordable speakers for sound quality. MB Quartz is nice too, but the Infinitys are great. Mate them up to a nice 4 channel Alpine and you will be as happy as a pig in shit. In my Explorer I have a double DIN Pioneer, a 5 channel Alpine, 4 Infinity Kappa 5x7's and two Rockford Fosgate P1 10" subs. That little 5 channel amp has had my system to 140 db and still clear.
Quote from: SVT666 on February 29, 2016, 09:15:14 PM
No USB port? Junk.
Can't tell if you're serious but that thing's got dual rear USB ports, plus Bluetooth. That is actually a pretty baller headunit that doesn't look like ass.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 29, 2016, 09:07:57 PM
I think I'd be better off with a 4 channel amp and ditching my subwoofer. But it's already set up so I'm not gonna change anything.
I've always found it extremeley difficult to go from Bass to Less Bass in the same space. You miss it right away.
Quote from: giant_mtb on February 29, 2016, 09:22:21 PM
I've always found it extremeley difficult to go from Bass to Less Bass in the same space. You miss it right away.
I'm not super happy with my sub, it isn't super crisp and clear. Probably faulty box construction or design (aka my fault). I've had much better experiences with boxes I didn't make myself. :lol:
As for head units, USB + Bluetooth + Aux is perfect.
Looks uggo and ricey
class
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/a/(KGrHqF,!k0E3Gzey500BOFUq,GcYQ~~/s-l500.jpg)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/tpkAAOSw3ydVgaZ7/s-l1600.jpg)
(http://allegro2.eltrox.pl/zdjecia/caraudio/Blaupunkt_Toronto_420BT_2.jpg)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158RSXGS9/Sony-RSX-GS9.html?tp=5684 (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158RSXGS9/Sony-RSX-GS9.html?tp=5684)
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2015/45/158/h158RSXGS9-F.jpg)
Quote from: thecarnut on February 29, 2016, 09:19:42 PM
Can't tell if you're serious but that thing's got dual rear USB ports, plus Bluetooth. That is actually a pretty baller headunit that doesn't look like ass.
There needs to be a sarcasm smiley. It's a pretty sweet head unit, but I do like my USB port on the front so I can use a thumb drive.
Quote from: SVT666 on February 29, 2016, 09:53:50 PM
There needs to be a sarcasm smiley. It's a pretty sweet head unit, but I do like my USB port on the front so I can use a thumb drive.
Rear input lets you route the USB port to wherever you want, though. :huh:
Quote from: 68_427 on February 29, 2016, 09:47:06 PM
Looks uggo and ricey
class
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/a/(KGrHqF,!k0E3Gzey500BOFUq,GcYQ~~/s-l500.jpg)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/tpkAAOSw3ydVgaZ7/s-l1600.jpg)
(http://allegro2.eltrox.pl/zdjecia/caraudio/Blaupunkt_Toronto_420BT_2.jpg)
Not everyone wants their stereo to look like it was stolen from a Volkswagen. :devil:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 29, 2016, 09:50:25 PM
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158RSXGS9/Sony-RSX-GS9.html?tp=5684 (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158RSXGS9/Sony-RSX-GS9.html?tp=5684)
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2015/45/158/h158RSXGS9-F.jpg)
Sweet Jesus, that's expensive. :mask:
Sony does make very attractive products, though, IMO.
Quote from: thecarnut on February 29, 2016, 11:03:57 PM
Not everyone wants their stereo to look like it was stolen from a Volkswagen. :devil:
The one Mike posted looks like something a 16 year old kid put into their VW :lol:
Quote from: thecarnut on February 29, 2016, 11:03:57 PM
Not everyone wants their stereo to look like it was stolen from a Volkswagen. :devil:
:lol:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on February 29, 2016, 09:50:25 PM
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158RSXGS9/Sony-RSX-GS9.html?tp=5684 (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158RSXGS9/Sony-RSX-GS9.html?tp=5684)
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2015/45/158/h158RSXGS9-F.jpg)
That's dope! And I'd prolly have to sell a boat load of it to afford one! :mask:
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on February 29, 2016, 11:14:35 PM
That's dope! And I'd prolly have to sell a boat load of it to afford one! :mask:
:lol:
I saw that headunit when it first came out, before the pricing was announced. Figured it would be $$, but never woulda guessed it'd be $$$$.
LOL and WTF! $1500!
That is pretty obscene
Every time I think about deep diving into some audio stuff I remember that 99% of the time I listen to NPR
Would be nice to have an interface to my phone though. Nav and Youtube in the dash
That sony is pretty sweet looking.
I loved the old nakamichi units. But the stereo industry now is pretty much about fancy lights and walmart sales.
Quote from: 68_427 on February 29, 2016, 11:10:03 PM
The one Mike posted looks like something a 16 year old kid put into their VW :lol:
Good thing his car has that flap which covers up the head unit anyways.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 01, 2016, 07:39:13 AM
That sony is pretty sweet looking.
I loved the old nakamichi units. But the stereo industry now is pretty much about fancy lights and walmart sales.
Not many new cars have single or even double DIN spaces to stick their radios into anymore. Everything new is super integrated into the nav/climate control/infotainment/backup camera/waffle iron center console.
Only people buying aftermarket head units are the ones driving old cars.
man I wish I could upgrade stereo.. Gonna wait for a while.
BUT I was looking for something else entirely and this popped up in an amazon search. (weird!!!) Might help the shiftknob problem:
http://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Shift-Universal-White-Dress/dp/B00J91LX4S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1456845104 (http://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Shift-Universal-White-Dress/dp/B00J91LX4S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1456845104)
:lol:
Here's what I'm thinking:
-$190 for the head unit
-$40 per pair of speakers. 2 pairs = $80
- 4 channel amp - $120
- Modifry controller to keep the awesome switches on the dash working - $90
- subwoofer + amp combo (bazooka or something similar)- $150
:cry:
Quote from: MrH on March 01, 2016, 08:30:40 AM
Here's what I'm thinking:
-$190 for the head unit
-$40 per pair of speakers. 2 pairs = $80
- Modifry controller to keep the awesome switches on the dash working - $90
:cry:
:ohyeah:
Quote
- 4 channel amp - $120
- subwoofer + amp combo (bazooka or something similar)- $150
:shakesfist:
I think you'd be really happy with just an 4 channel amp and good speakers. Not a whole lot of room for a sub so I don't think it's worth it.
I feel like a nice stereo for the S is a waste. Spend that money on an intake for the S and stereo shit for the truck. What do u think ur mileage split will be between the two rides? I am seeing like 60/40 4 Runner/S2K at best with weather and everything factored in. U will get way more back from stereo stuff in the truck IMO
Quote from: MrH on March 01, 2016, 08:30:40 AM
Here's what I'm thinking:
-$190 for the head unit
-$40 per pair of speakers. 2 pairs = $80
- 4 channel amp - $120
- Modifry controller to keep the awesome switches on the dash working - $90
- subwoofer + amp combo (bazooka or something similar)- $150
:cry:
You should throw a few bags of cement in the trunk, while you're at it.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on March 01, 2016, 08:48:47 AM
I feel like a nice stereo for the S is a waste. Spend that money on an intake for the S and stereo shit for the truck. What do u think ur mileage split will be between the two rides? I am seeing like 60/40 4 Runner/S2K at best with weather and everything factored in. U will get way more back from stereo stuff in the truck IMO
Plus one
Yeah, a really nice stereo in a sports car seems like a waste. Just make sure it's loud enough that you can hear it on the highway with the roof down.
Lol, that stereo stuff weighs so little. I'll probably take out the spare tire and put the amp there anyways. Might be a net weight savings.
The 12 watts RMS the headunit puts out isn't much when you're driving down the highway with the top down. A simple amp would be worth it.
The little sub & amp combo would be plenty for me and wouldn't take up a lot of room. I need to dig around in the spare area and see how much room I have.
Something like this:
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2014/16/777/h777B8PTD-F.jpg)
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on March 01, 2016, 08:48:47 AM
I feel like a nice stereo for the S is a waste. Spend that money on an intake for the S and stereo shit for the truck. What do u think ur mileage split will be between the two rides? I am seeing like 60/40 4 Runner/S2K at best with weather and everything factored in. U will get way more back from stereo stuff in the truck IMO
Yeah, that's probably about right in terms of mileage. Maybe even 70/30 4runner/s2k.
The 4Runner has a pretty decent sound system though already. The stock one isn't bad. Totally sufficient for day to day use. The s2000 has an awful headunit with no way to connect my phone and two blown out paper speakers. It's not even usable right now.
Why do you even need a stereo when you could put in some sweet JDM gauges?
(http://i.imgur.com/KHearcF.jpg)
:lol:
I can understand wanting USB/bluetooth, but the subs and amp seem like overkill. New speakers and headunit would seem great for the times you're not just listening to the engine (and if you're driving so little I'd hope you're enjoying the sound of that engine).
Quote from: MrH on March 01, 2016, 09:35:30 AM
Yeah, that's probably about right in terms of mileage. Maybe even 70/30 4runner/s2k.
The 4Runner has a pretty decent sound system though already. The stock one isn't bad. Totally sufficient for day to day use. The s2000 has an awful headunit with no way to connect my phone and two blown out paper speakers. It's not even usable right now.
OK, that makes sense. I think I would stop at the sub though. 50-100W RMS to each front channel with some decent coaxials and a little door sealing will do wonders. I ran an amped 4 ch setup with no sub in one of my Accords and it sounded awesome. Didn't get low like a sub but it got the job done.
Quote from: thecarnut on March 01, 2016, 10:26:36 AM
Why do you even need a stereo when you could put in some sweet JDM gauges?
(http://i.imgur.com/KHearcF.jpg)
:lol:
:rockon:
They make some super-slimline amp/woofer combos, I was trying to find something for Miata back in the day.
Yeah, sub seems like overkill when space is already at a premium in the car. But I guess if you're not DDing it...
All this chat about systems is making me miss the setup I had back in my Accord.
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w35/333BimmerM3/IMG_0563.jpg)
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w35/333BimmerM3/IMG_0564.jpg)
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on March 01, 2016, 10:59:36 AM
They make some super-slimline amp/woofer combos, I was trying to find something for Miata back in the day.
They're pretty compromised AFAIK.
I am seeing some under/behind the seat subwoofer setups. Obviously they won't have nausea inducing thump but they can help.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on March 01, 2016, 10:56:16 AM
OK, that makes sense. I think I would stop at the sub though. 50-100W RMS to each front channel with some decent coaxials and a little door sealing will do wonders. I ran an amped 4 ch setup with no sub in one of my Accords and it sounded awesome. Didn't get low like a sub but it got the job done.
Yeah, I'm thinking headunit, 4 channel amp, and speakers first. See if I want to do a sub+amp combo after the fact. That's probably the best idea.
What speaker sizes can you fit? 6.5" round?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 01, 2016, 11:43:38 AM
What speaker sizes can you fit? 6.5" round?
Yep. Doors are really shallow too. I need to research more on how people put speakers behind the seats too. Some just cut. Some fit them behind a vent (the cleaner solution).
You have a vent behind the seats?
Quote from: HotRodPilot on March 01, 2016, 11:52:09 AM
You have a vent behind the seats?
Not like an AC vent, I don't think. I'm not sure what's back there though.
On the flip side.
I'm going to pull all the shit out of my 300zx(double din am/fm 6 disc changer, bose amps, 4 speakers) and run an ultralight setup.
I haven't messed with it yet, but I'm thinking I can run a pair of door speakers to a ultra small class d amp(size of a phone) and the input would be a bluetooth receiver with a line level control on it.
Should be super light, probably save me 20+ pounds.
Example:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71986_Clarion-XC1410.html (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71986_Clarion-XC1410.html)
2 pounds.....race car.
BTW if you can do it right, the door speakers can have a decent amount bass just by shaping the enclosure behind them. (how much air moves or doesn't) Stock stereos nowadays have way more bass than those of long ago.
Extended purple lug nuts ordered! #stancelyfe
Quote from: MrH on March 02, 2016, 10:13:43 AM
Extended purple lug nuts ordered! #stancelyfe
Will that make it go faster?
Quote from: MrH on March 02, 2016, 10:13:43 AM
Extended purple lug nuts ordered! #stancelyfe
Ughhh......:rolleyes:
No, I did buy some new lugs though. Just some normal, short black ones. I had mismatching lugs on the BRZ because one got a piece of something in it and damaged a few threads.
I found the wheel lock too luckily. I'm heading to the BMV soon to get everything registered and titled. Once the new lugs come in, I'll try fitting these wheels and tires and see how it fits.
Driver seat has a few small scratches in the leather. Got a repair kit to fix it up a bit, then I'll condition both seats with some Leather Milk. Also ordered license plate LED bulbs and interior bulbs just to freshen it up a bit. I've got a couple of light scratches I need to address too.
New top is also ordered
So skimming your update thread I came away with 2 things,
Lugnuts and LED's........
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 03, 2016, 11:12:00 AM
So skimming your update thread I came away with 2 things,
Lugnuts and LED's........
Those were my plans for Summit before the engine asplode.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 03, 2016, 11:12:00 AM
So skimming your update thread I came away with 2 things,
Lugnuts and LED's........
Well, brake pads, a new soft top, and the tax bill for it. Those are the expensive things so far.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on March 03, 2016, 11:30:40 AM
Those were my plans for Summit before the engine asplode.
You had time to make plans?
Soft top comes in tomorrow. :rockon: think I can get it done in one day?
Quote from: MrH on March 07, 2016, 09:01:38 PM
Soft top comes in tomorrow. :rockon: think I can get it done in one day?
Sounds like a big job!
Quote from: MrH on March 07, 2016, 09:01:38 PM
Soft top comes in tomorrow. :rockon: think I can get it done in one day?
Dunno about the S2000, but the NA Miata top can be replaced in 20 minutes.
I've heard anywhere from 6 hours to 10 hours. The guy I bought the car from said it will take me a few days, but in talking with him and helping him take the hardtop off, I move a lot faster than he does.
I'm betting 10 hours in total. Probably too lazy to complete in one day, but I'm going to try.
Quote from: MrH on March 08, 2016, 07:39:54 AM
I've heard anywhere from 6 hours to 10 hours. The guy I bought the car from said it will take me a few days, but in talking with him and helping him take the hardtop off, I move a lot faster than he does.
I'm betting 10 hours in total. Probably too lazy to complete in one day, but I'm going to try.
Wow, there must be some significant dismantling of parts to change the top on the S2000.
Seats, all the plastic behind the seats, roll bars, everything has to come out pretty much. Then you've got to drill out rivets and everything. It's pretty ugly.
Quote from: Rockraven on March 08, 2016, 07:13:00 AM
Dunno about the S2000, but the NA Miata top can be replaced in 20 minutes.
That's really not a fair comparison. I'm sure Mazda's engineers are much better than Honda's.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 08, 2016, 09:34:18 AM
That's really not a fair comparison. I'm sure Mazda's engineers are much better than Honda's.
:lol:
I'm sure the NC and ND tops are equally a PITA to change.
NC top is an ass to remove. Even worse if you want to remove the top from the frame.
Quote from: Rockraven on March 08, 2016, 07:13:00 AM
Dunno about the S2000, but the NA Miata top can be replaced in 20 minutes.
?
To remove the top + frame or just the top? Changing the top while the frame is on the car is a big job. It took me something like 15 hours, though I did have to make a couple extra trips to the store and I hadn't done it before. Just removing the old top was probably more than 20 minutes...
Quote from: Rupert on March 09, 2016, 12:07:37 AM
?
To remove the top + frame or just the top? Changing the top while the frame is on the car is a big job. It took me something like 15 hours, though I did have to make a couple extra trips to the store and I hadn't done it before. Just removing the old top was probably more than 20 minutes...
Yeah, disregard. Previous owner of my Miata replaced the torn top with an aftermarket one, and he must have meant replacement with the frame off. My bad.
I remember it was like $800 for previous owner to replace the top on my Miata- $200 parts, $600 labor.
If you have the right stuff and a sense of how to glue and manipulate fabric, the only hard part is dealing with the rain rail, but it still takes a lot of work.
Well, the top didn't come with the instructions or bag of components. I emailed the company I bought it from and waiting for a reply :facepalm:
O shit.....
Just dropped some dough on the whole sound system.
Head unit, speakers, amp. Holding off on a sub to see how this sounds first.
What did you go with?
Pioneer DEX 9600BHS. Kind of expensive for a single din unit, but it's got all the bells and whistles and looks the best by far.
2 sets of pioneer 3 way component speakers. Blaupunkt 4 channel amp. Bought the controller for the audio controls by the steering wheel.
Going to wire in for a sub. If I decide I need one, then I just need to plug it in.
I paid at least that for my HU. I think it's worth it if it's something that has the features and you don't hate looking at or using.
Quote from: MrH on March 09, 2016, 07:54:06 PM
Well, the top didn't come with the instructions or bag of components. I emailed the company I bought it from and waiting for a reply :facepalm:
:lol:
If it makes you feel any better, I've put one actual patch where I could see through my roof (tiny tear - used some silicon sealant plus an iron-on patch on the inside), plus a few preventative patches (more iron-on patches), to avoid having to replace my roof. I wish you the best of luck, and I'm sure I'll consult you when my roof inevitably does need to be completely replaced.
Quote from: MrH on March 09, 2016, 10:04:43 PM
Pioneer DEX 9600BHS. Kind of expensive for a single din unit, but it's got all the bells and whistles and looks the best by far.
2 sets of pioneer 3 way component speakers. Blaupunkt 4 channel amp. Bought the controller for the audio controls by the steering wheel.
Going to wire in for a sub. If I decide I need one, then I just need to plug it in.
Sounds like a great setup! I'm still running stock in mine, but the stereo in the later years was supposed to be way better. I think you'll be pretty happy though - the sub shouldn't be necessary unless you're super picky. The only time my stereo sounds really lacking is really when the radio station doesn't have great service - switching to a stronger station or to a CD usually sounds MUCH better. I do wish I had an AUX input for my phone, but otherwise, I think you'll be set!
Quote from: 68_427 on March 09, 2016, 10:06:54 PM
I paid at least that for my HU. I think it's worth it if it's something that has the features and you don't hate looking at or using.
Yeah, it's just all adding up to quite a bit. I spent more on this car than I was planning for a Miata. And I've probably spent an additional $1400 so far and I still don't have everything I need to get it to where I want it. Still need coilovers. Then I've got all the work of putting this thing together.
Quote from: BimmerM3 on March 09, 2016, 10:19:01 PM
:lol:
If it makes you feel any better, I've put one actual patch where I could see through my roof (tiny tear - used some silicon sealant plus an iron-on patch on the inside), plus a few preventative patches (more iron-on patches), to avoid having to replace my roof. I wish you the best of luck, and I'm sure I'll consult you when my roof inevitably does need to be completely replaced.
Sounds like a great setup! I'm still running stock in mine, but the stereo in the later years was supposed to be way better. I think you'll be pretty happy though - the sub shouldn't be necessary unless you're super picky. The only time my stereo sounds really lacking is really when the radio station doesn't have great service - switching to a stronger station or to a CD usually sounds MUCH better. I do wish I had an AUX input for my phone, but otherwise, I think you'll be set!
There's an auto upholstery shop about two blocks from work that has good reviews. I read through the instructions. Totally going to have them quote it. If it's $600 or under, I'm going to pay to get it done.
This audio setup should be awesome when it's done. I got that Modifry dash mount and some hardware to wire in a phone charger. Should be able to put my phone up there and have navigation and music through it
I spent ~$800 on my stereo and that's with refurbed parts, no amp, and no sub.
Quote from: MrH on March 09, 2016, 10:04:43 PM
Pioneer DEX 9600BHS. Kind of expensive for a single din unit, but it's got all the bells and whistles and looks the best by far.
2 sets of pioneer 3 way component speakers. Blaupunkt 4 channel amp. Bought the controller for the audio controls by the steering wheel.
Going to wire in for a sub. If I decide I need one, then I just need to plug it in.
That's what I'm running in the wagon. It's been a real good unit for me
Quote from: Soup DeVille on March 09, 2016, 10:48:21 PM
That's what I'm running in the wagon. It's been a real good unit for me
Glad you like it. The display looks better than what's on my microwave, which is more than most single din stereos can say. It has HD radio, Bluetooth with Siri, siriusxm, 6 channel pre amp output @ 4 volts. Basically the only head unit I could find that all of that and didn't look ridiculous.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJKs_P1WxBI&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJKs_P1WxBI&feature=youtu.be)
It only took 4 guys an entire day and night to complete :lol:
So I called the upholstery guy. Old dude that's only 3 minutes from my work. I told him I have an S2000 and he said he's replaced a ton and in talking with him, I could tell he knew all the details. He asked what top, glass or plastic rear window, everything. Quoted $500 and he could do it in one business day.
Deal. I read through the instructions. I don't want that head ache.
Quote from: MrH on March 10, 2016, 08:20:05 AM
It only took 4 guys an entire day and night to complete :lol:
So I called the upholstery guy. Old dude that's only 3 minutes from my work. I told him I have an S2000 and he said he's replaced a ton and in talking with him, I could tell he knew all the details. He asked what top, glass or plastic rear window, everything. Quoted $500 and he could do it in one business day.
Deal. I read through the instructions. I don't want that head ache.
What happened with the hard top? Did the guy keep it?
Yeah. He wanted $1200 for it. It would have sat in the garage gathering dust so I didn't go for it.
Quote from: MrH on March 10, 2016, 08:20:05 AM
I could tell he knew all the details. ...Quoted $500 and he could do it in one business day.
score!!!
I'm totally jealous, would love to have a sweet ride and the money to pimp it out. :mrcool:
Somewhere, someone is shaking their fist, screaming "BUILT NOT BOUGHT"
If slaving away on cars was so fun, mechanics would work for free :lol:
:lol: true dat. I can do most car work myself. I'm just painfully slow at it and hate it. I enjoy the end result, but not the work itself.
I figure I pay for the soft top installation. Experience and skill doing that is a big benefit that I don't have. I'll install the stereo myself. That's cake by comparison.
Quote from: MrH on March 10, 2016, 11:01:22 AM
:lol: true dat. I can do most car work myself. I'm just painfully slow at it and hate it. I enjoy the end result, but not the work itself.
That's pretty much the conclusion I came to a while ago, except I actually enjoy working on cars in general
Wrenching on cars isn't hard. As long as you have a desire to do it, anybody can do it.
But the difference between an amateur and a pro mechanic is the speed at which you do the same job.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on March 10, 2016, 10:48:48 AM
Somewhere, someone is shaking their fist, screaming "BUILT NOT BOUGHT"
If slaving away on cars was so fun, mechanics would work for free :lol:
Not being your car makes a bit of difference. Lots of people have hobbies doing what other people get paid to do.
That being said; it can be rewarding. It can also be a pain in the ass.
Also the single most nightmare thing I had to do on my ol' contour was installing a new HU. Absolute PITA. Figured it'd take a couple of hours doing it with a friend who had done HU installs before, nope took us probably 6-8 hours.
Didn't realize the car had a factory amp tucked in behind the glove compartment. So had to splice all the speaker cables directly into the HU. Then to top it all off, the damn stock HU had this weird bracket to make it fit into the center console which of course the new HU didn't fit into. So had to hack at that thing to make everything fit.
At least it sounded much better than stock...
I work on mine, but I don't enjoy it(90% of the time).
I do it for 2 reasons:
1: I'm a cheap sumbitch
2: I'm a picky sumbitch aka nobody will ever do it right or as good as I would.
It's a tough situation, I'd much rather be driving.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 10, 2016, 11:13:27 AM
I work on mine, but I don't enjoy it(90% of the time).
I do it for 2 reasons:
1: I'm a cheap sumbitch
2: I'm a picky sumbitch aka nobody will ever do it right or as good as I would.
It's a tough situation, I'd much rather be driving.
Yup.
My general rule of thumb is if I can't get it done on a Sunday afternoon.... to the shop it goes. It's also a lot different when you only have one car and depend on it to get you to work
I like to work on my car because I know it doesn't need to get me to work the next day.
Big maintenance things on the bikes will get sent to someone else who can knock it out quickly so I can actually use it the rest of the week.
Yea I like to err on the side of caution with the bike as well. A lot of the stuff is stuff I can do myself but I don't want to risk it. Simple shit like oil changes and filters no problem but I don't like to fuck with anything that involves removing the wheels.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on March 10, 2016, 12:19:07 PM
Yea I like to err on the side of caution with the bike as well. A lot of the stuff is stuff I can do myself but I don't want to risk it. Simple shit like oil changes and filters no problem but I don't like to fuck with anything that involves removing the wheels.
Removing wheels is easy, but I didn't want to do the valve checks myself.
I will say, I spend a ton of time triple and quadruple checking bolts and torques on the bike just because anything going wrong = death on the bike. :mask:
Quote from: SVT_Power on March 10, 2016, 11:05:13 AM
But the difference between an amateur and a pro mechanic is the speed at which you do the same job.
That, plus the ability to diagnose problems when you don't know what exactly they are.
Quote from: BimmerM3 on March 10, 2016, 12:55:31 PM
That, plus the ability to diagnose problems when you don't know what exactly they are.
Pro mechanics suck at that. If the computer doesn't tell them what the problem is they give the car back. 20 years ago I would tell the mechanic what the symptoms were, they would say exactly what it was or that it was one of two possibilities and they would fix it. Now, I take the car in and tell them the symptoms, but if the diagnostic doesn't come up with anything they haven't got a clue.
Quote from: SVT666 on March 10, 2016, 03:46:50 PM
Pro mechanics suck at that. If the computer doesn't tell them what the problem is they give the car back. 20 years ago I would tell the mechanic what the symptoms were, they would say exactly what it was or that it was one of two possibilities and they would fix it. Now, I take the car in and tell them the symptoms, but if the diagnostic doesn't come up with anything they haven't got a clue.
Cars are also a lot more complex now than they were 20 years ago.
Quote from: thecarnut on March 10, 2016, 05:04:57 PM
Cars are also a lot more complex now than they were 20 years ago.
That's an excuse. An engine is still an engine. They don't even try to diagnose anymore.
An engine is still suck-squish-bang-blow, yes, but the manner in which each of those happen is much more complex than they used to be, and they can each go wrong in ways that are not necessarily obviously connected to the part of the cycle they control, made more difficult because a lot of these failure modes aren't consistent between models.
Quote from: SVT666 on March 10, 2016, 03:46:50 PM
Pro mechanics suck at that. If the computer doesn't tell them what the problem is they give the car back. 20 years ago I would tell the mechanic what the symptoms were, they would say exactly what it was or that it was one of two possibilities and they would fix it. Now, I take the car in and tell them the symptoms, but if the diagnostic doesn't come up with anything they haven't got a clue.
This depends greatly on the mechanic.
You wanna wire my stereo while you're at it? I looked into the car today and realized I have to re-wire all four crossovers along with the speakers.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on March 10, 2016, 09:39:04 PM
This depends greatly on the mechanic.
That too. They fixed my Explorer in the middle of nowhere AZ without the assistance of an engine code.
Quote from: 68_427 on March 10, 2016, 10:05:25 PM
You wanna wire my stereo while you're at it? I looked into the car today and realized I have to re-wire all four crossovers along with the speakers.
Why do you have 4 Crossovers?
Quote from: MrH on March 10, 2016, 08:20:05 AM
It only took 4 guys an entire day and night to complete :lol:
So I called the upholstery guy. Old dude that's only 3 minutes from my work. I told him I have an S2000 and he said he's replaced a ton and in talking with him, I could tell he knew all the details. He asked what top, glass or plastic rear window, everything. Quoted $500 and he could do it in one business day.
Deal. I read through the instructions. I don't want that head ache.
Smart move. Like I said earlier top replacement is a big job...
Quote from: Gotta-Qik-G8 on March 10, 2016, 11:42:44 PM
Why do you have 4 Crossovers?
I bought two sets of this. I had no real reason to make it this complicated....
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2013/23/107/h107DXi6501-F.jpg)
Quote from: 68_427 on March 10, 2016, 11:56:22 PM
I bought two sets of this. I had no real reason to make it this complicated....
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2013/23/107/h107DXi6501-F.jpg)
GOTCHA......
Quote from: 68_427 on March 10, 2016, 11:56:22 PM
I bought two sets of this. I had no real reason to make it this complicated....
(http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/555/312/products/2013/23/107/h107DXi6501-F.jpg)
Did you just screw it up the first time?
I didn't secure everything as tightly as I should have.
doh!
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/5488780589.html (http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/5488780589.html)
For race wars
Those are so ugly
Perfect for race wears
I thought it was going to be a link to some sr20's.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 13, 2016, 02:12:00 PM
I thought it was going to be a link to some sr20's.
Those pull too much of a premium before race wars for Mike
Preparing for race wars.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/9cd60dff63963057c066cdd5ea2d69b1.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/cc6ee691b2581a350e70fff04c9e6070.jpg)
Think of the weight savings from getting rid of seats. +200 mental horsepower. No pain, no gain. The more uncomfortable your car is, the cooler you are.
I'm the anti Rags. Adding weight now :lol:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/2025658b827773365c6f43f8e24886dd.jpg)
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
:tounge:
Frame and top are like 70+ lbs. trying to position that by myself was fun.
Wait, so did you just re-install the old top and then you'll take it to the guy to have him switch the material/window?
Yep. It was a blast. Made me realize previous owner was a total moron. Interior clips that you push in the center to remove are clearly destroyed by trying to pry out with a screw driver. Missing bolts and screws and clips everywhere. I need to buy a ton of these from Honda when I put this interior back together.
I think all previous owners are morons.
Quote from: Rupert on March 14, 2016, 03:29:45 AM
I think all previous owners are morons.
The shops/dealerships that work on their cars, too. shit, if I trusted the "reputable" shop I brought my car too, I'd still have a 4x4 Miata
Quote from: MrH on March 10, 2016, 11:01:22 AM
:lol: true dat. I can do most car work myself. I'm just painfully slow at it and hate it. I enjoy the end result, but not the work itself.
I figure I pay for the soft top installation. Experience and skill doing that is a big benefit that I don't have. I'll install the stereo myself. That's cake by comparison.
It's so much better to pay people to that kind of tedious shit. I get the satisfaction of doing the job yourself, but at some point, it's just not worth it.
They're done already. That was fast. I was missing all the components and elastic straps it was supposed to come with. They just threw them in. And they're willing to take $400 if I pay cash. :lol:
Owner looked like a dirty Willy Nelson. But hey, if they do good work, whatever.
Wow. They did awesome work. Best $400 I've ever spent.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/5761db981862e20e434e9bdef4b3d23f.jpg)
Nice! :rockon:
Quote from: MrH on March 14, 2016, 02:22:56 PM
Wow. They did awesome work. Best $400 I've ever spent.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/5761db981862e20e434e9bdef4b3d23f.jpg)
sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet
Time2VTEC.net
That top looks nice. Will you have a wait/stretch period of keeping the top up? If you've raised and lowered it, has it seemed like the motors were straining?
I ask because I just got a new cloth too and man that thing was hard to get latched. I must've looked like a cartoon trying to get it to close in the first few weeks.
Yeah it's tight like a drum. Sounds like a drum if you tap it. It lowers and raises just fine though. The latches are just a half inch off from the windshield frame though, and you gotta pull them forward to latch. It's not too bad. Putting it up and down a few times has already stretched it a little.
Now I need to finish ordering the audio equipment, install it all, order all the missing clips and hardware, install all the interior pieces back in, and then it's drivable
Quote from: MrH on March 14, 2016, 05:20:20 PM
Yeah it's tight like a drum. Sounds like a drum if you tap it. It lowers and raises just fine though. The latches are just a half inch off from the windshield frame though, and you gotta pull them forward to latch. It's not too bad. Putting it up and down a few times has already stretched it a little.
Now I need to finish ordering the audio equipment, install it all, order all the missing clips and hardware, install all the interior pieces back in, and then it's drivable
Pfft, you don't need audio shit or missing clips to drive the car.
Just saw you posted it up on CL, same pictures as this thread, new top listed in the ad.
How much will you take for it?
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 14, 2016, 06:25:23 PM
Just saw you posted it up on CL, same pictures as this thread, new top listed in the ad.
How much will you take for it?
wat
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 14, 2016, 06:25:23 PM
Just saw you posted it up on CL, same pictures as this thread, new top listed in the ad.
How much will you take for it?
LOL
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 14, 2016, 06:25:23 PM
Just saw you posted it up on CL, same pictures as this thread, new top listed in the ad.
How much will you take for it?
:lol: jackass
:lol:
Rear H badge is coming off :mask: Bottom half is just hanging there.
MrHonda
Quote from: MrH on March 14, 2016, 09:14:01 PM
Rear H badge is coming off :mask: Bottom half is just hanging there.
put mr infront of it
And then start selling H-shaped ecstasy from your car.
So who else is gonna jump on board before S2000 prices really get insane? Otherwise it's just gonna be me and Mike hanging out when we have our Official CarSpin S2000 meetups.
Meh, next up for me is a ND.
To be honest, I'm a bit jealous of Mike. As much as I :wub::wub::wub: mine, there's something just slightly amazing about the AP1's 9k redline. Plus Mike's looks better cared for - it's hard to see on the pictures I've posted here, but the bottom part of my front bumper is scratched up pretty good. Previous owner sucked at parking I guess.
I've been thinking about it, but I can't afford it until I either get a big raise or pay off the XTerra.
Quote from: BimmerM3 on March 14, 2016, 11:14:20 PM
So who else is gonna jump on board before S2000 prices really get insane? Otherwise it's just gonna be me and Mike hanging out when we have our Official CarSpin S2000 meetups.
I want to jump on a 996 personally. Problem is I have nowhere to keep it, no time to drive it besides commuting, and it prob won't jive with infants.
Quote from: BimmerM3 on March 14, 2016, 11:14:20 PM
So who else is gonna jump on board before S2000 prices really get insane? Otherwise it's just gonna be me and Mike hanging out when we have our Official CarSpin S2000 meetups.
I have a key fob, an owners manual, a shift knob and a tonneau cover- good enough?
No, I didn't think so either...
Quote from: Soup DeVille on March 15, 2016, 05:01:50 AM
I have a key fob, an owners manual, a shift knob and a tonneau cover- good enough?
No, I didn't think so either...
What's the thread pitch for the shift knob, and is it the metal one?
Quote from: 68_427 on March 15, 2016, 05:05:01 AM
What's the thread pitch for the shift knob, and is it the metal one?
It's 10mm- so 1.5 maybe? Yeah it's the aluminum one.
Damn I'd need an adapter
I'd pick one up if I found a good deal on one, wouldn't replace my miata with it though.
More likely to get a used ND, however I too wouldn't mind a 911 in a few years. 997 S prices are looking pretty damn good, and in a few years they should start to bottom out from depreciation.
Really though, with regards to verts, boxsters are the best buy these days. Prices are LOW, as much as I love miata's, it would be hard to justify a clean NB/NC vs a Base or even S boxster for the same money.
Quote from: BimmerM3 on March 14, 2016, 11:31:42 PM
To be honest, I'm a bit jealous of Mike. As much as I :wub::wub::wub: mine, there's something just slightly amazing about the AP1's 9k redline. Plus Mike's looks better cared for - it's hard to see on the pictures I've posted here, but the bottom part of my front bumper is scratched up pretty good. Previous owner sucked at parking I guess.
My OEM lip is pretty chipped up and it's cracked in one spot. It's not perfect, but for a 15 year old car, it looks pretty good. I'll take nice pictures once I finish it and detail the whole thing. That'll be a few weeks though.
But yeah, 9000 rpm :wub: :wub: :wub:
Quote from: Laconian on March 14, 2016, 11:16:35 PM
Meh, next up for me is a ND.
That's my wish but I'll hopefully get an NA or NB next year...
I wish. I'm just gonna buy Mike's when I'm done with school
Quote from: CALL_911 on March 15, 2016, 08:14:56 AM
I wish. I'm just gonna buy Mike's when I'm done with school
There are other ones out there
Mid engine for me.
MR2 or bust
At this point, a boxster is cheaper and probably better.
I'd take a base 986 over a mr s.
Quote from: CALL_911 on March 15, 2016, 08:14:56 AM
I wish. I'm just gonna buy Mike's when I'm done with school
You're graduating this year?
Quote from: 2o6 on March 15, 2016, 09:37:23 AM
Mid engine for me.
MR2 or bust
Mid-engined is too perfect. Rear-engined is flawed, but that's what makes it fun.
VW Beetle with a Sharkwerks 4.0L flat six.
While I'd love an S2k, I would rather get a CLEAN AW11 MR-2 S/C or AE86. S2k's are a bit too heavy for my taste and I'd rather have a fixed roof coupe.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 15, 2016, 09:56:30 AM
At this point, a boxster is cheaper and probably better.
I'd take a base 986 over a mr s.
I agree, but maintenance costs will almost definitely make the Porsche more expensive in the long run.
Quote from: MX793 on March 15, 2016, 10:00:47 AM
You're graduating this year?
He's graduating in the next six weeks?
Quote from: MrH on March 14, 2016, 02:22:56 PM
Wow. They did awesome work. Best $400 I've ever spent.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160314/5761db981862e20e434e9bdef4b3d23f.jpg)
:muffin: :rockon: :rockon: :muffin:
Quote from: BimmerM3 on March 15, 2016, 10:36:40 AM
I agree, but maintenance costs will almost definitely make the Porsche more expensive in the long run.
Actual regular maintenance? Not really.
Mechanical repairs? Possibly.
If you find a nice boxster with 60K on it, I believe it's perfectly reasonable to expect to be able to buy and drive it for 30K(like 4-5 summers) without having to do much more than basic service.
For which MY did Porsche fix the IMS failure issue?
Quote from: MX793 on March 15, 2016, 10:00:47 AM
You're graduating this year?
Ha I wish- 2019. Mike will keep it warm until then.
Quote from: CALL_911 on March 16, 2016, 04:35:02 PM
Ha I wish- 2019. Mike will keep it warm until then.
You think he'll still have it beyond 2017?
Quote from: Laconian on March 16, 2016, 04:24:21 PM
For which MY did Porsche fix the IMS failure issue?
2009.
'00-'05 are the most trouble-prone, but the bearings are also serviceable/replaceable without completely disassembling the engine. '06-'08s require a complete engine tear-down to get at the bearing.
Finally got to put some time into it this weekend.
Started some basic maintenance things. Air filter, got an oil change to do, brake pads.
Ripped out the stock head unit and wired everything in place. I put the microphone for the bluetooth on the steering column. SiriusXM antenna is hidden up front at the base of the windshield. Ran the USB plugin to the center console, and all the RCA cables are now running to the spare tire area for the amp. Still need to make a shelf for the amp, run power to it, mount it, figure how to mount all the speakers and wire those. :cry: This is going to take awhile.
I'm not going to pay attention to whining unless I have a nice car too. :lol:
Quote from: MrH on April 18, 2016, 07:08:09 AM
Finally got to put some time into it this weekend.
Started some basic maintenance things. Air filter, got an oil change to do, brake pads.
Ripped out the stock head unit and wired everything in place. I put the microphone for the bluetooth on the steering column. SiriusXM antenna is hidden up front at the base of the windshield. Ran the USB plugin to the center console, and all the RCA cables are now running to the spare tire area for the amp. Still need to make a shelf for the amp, run power to it, mount it, figure how to mount all the speakers and wire those. :cry: This is going to take awhile.
I recommend some nice solid metal for the amp mount. Maybe some 2" plate steel? I'd make an elevated platform out of that to isolate noise and vibration.
Is 2" thick enough to handle the power when the amp hits VTEC?
VTEC only happens at -0.005dB.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on March 15, 2016, 11:53:31 AM
Actual regular maintenance? Not really.
Mechanical repairs? Possibly.
If you find a nice boxster with 60K on it, I believe it's perfectly reasonable to expect to be able to buy and drive it for 30K(like 4-5 summers) without having to do much more than basic service.
When I say "the long run," I mean that I intend to pass the S2000 onto my future kid whose mother I haven't met yet. The car is fantastic and I don't think I'll sell it unless it gets wrecked or I'm in a huge financial emergency, which I'm pretty well set up to avoid.
Jesus fuck S2000s are expensive up here. $25,000 for one with 140,000 kms??? :hammerhead:
Yeaaaaaah. They're going up at this point. I can probably drive it 10k miles a year, sell in 5 years, and lose next to nothing.
I've had mine for somewhere around 3 1/3 years and put 27+k miles on it, and I'm pretty sure I could sell it for what I paid for it, if not a little more.
That makes me sad. :(
On the other hand 944s have certainly reached bottom and are probably starting appreciate, so there's that.
My car is appreciating, but not at a fast enough rate to make up for all the money I spend on upgrading it. :lol:
Quote from: BimmerM3 on April 19, 2016, 10:02:30 PM
I've had mine for somewhere around 3 1/3 years and put 27+k miles on it, and I'm pretty sure I could sell it for what I paid for it, if not a little more.
No you haven't O_O
how the fuck... time flies
Buying an amp rack off a guy on the S2ki forum :rockon: That'll save me a lot of time and frustration.
Next step is to rip apart the door panels and mount the next door speakers and copy this guy: http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/853019-installed-rear-speakers/ (http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/853019-installed-rear-speakers/)
Inb4 Mike is ordering new interior panels
Already did :lol:
I had the boring grayish radio door cover. Bought the AP2 one that looks better.
Quote from: 68_427 on April 19, 2016, 10:32:33 PM
No you haven't O_O
how the fuck... time flies
January 2013. This is the post where I revealed what it was, because vaguebooking.
http://www.carspin.net/index.php?topic=27909.msg1836138#msg1836138 (http://www.carspin.net/index.php?topic=27909.msg1836138#msg1836138)
Makes me feel old
Quote from: 68_427 on April 20, 2016, 09:38:25 PM
Makes me feel old
I did a little skimming through the chat thread after that post and noticed that Ohio Kevin mentioned something about borrowing a truck from his brother, so he wasn't even out at that point in time. It's been awhile lol.
This thing gets surprisingly high reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KSC-SW11-Compact-Enclosed-Subwoofer/dp/B00BO8O9XQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1461331156&sr=1-2&keywords=powered+subwoofer+car (http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KSC-SW11-Compact-Enclosed-Subwoofer/dp/B00BO8O9XQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1461331156&sr=1-2&keywords=powered+subwoofer+car)
I could fit it right next to the 4-channel amp in the same area. I think it'll be enough to cut some of the bass responsibilities off of the component speakers.
Good choice for a compact. Great price, too.
Quote from: MrH on April 22, 2016, 07:30:16 AM
This thing gets surprisingly high reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KSC-SW11-Compact-Enclosed-Subwoofer/dp/B00BO8O9XQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1461331156&sr=1-2&keywords=powered+subwoofer+car (http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KSC-SW11-Compact-Enclosed-Subwoofer/dp/B00BO8O9XQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1461331156&sr=1-2&keywords=powered+subwoofer+car)
I could fit it right next to the 4-channel amp in the same area. I think it'll be enough to cut some of the bass responsibilities off of the component speakers.
Want.... :cry:
Yeah I'd love that as well
It'll be kind of buried though, so I don't know how it'll perform. Basically, it'll be in the spare tire area, which is in this dead zone between the trunk and the passenger seat. The convertible top sits in a shelf above it when it's lowered. There's some trunk trim that separates it from the rest of the trunk. There's a plastic panel and the passenger seat separating it from the cabin.
I guess I'll buy it and see how it performs. :huh:
Bass is usually pretty good at not giving too many fucks about barriers, which is partly why you can hear the teenager's bass bumping a block away, but not the hi-hats. Those wavelengths are yuuuuuuge (a 40Hz wave is nearly 30ft)
Quote from: MrH on April 22, 2016, 07:30:16 AM
This thing gets surprisingly high reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KSC-SW11-Compact-Enclosed-Subwoofer/dp/B00BO8O9XQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1461331156&sr=1-2&keywords=powered+subwoofer+car (http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KSC-SW11-Compact-Enclosed-Subwoofer/dp/B00BO8O9XQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1461331156&sr=1-2&keywords=powered+subwoofer+car)
I could fit it right next to the 4-channel amp in the same area. I think it'll be enough to cut some of the bass responsibilities off of the component speakers.
I think that would work better inside the passenger compartment! Just my .02!
Put it under the passenger seat so the ladies can have some fun of their own.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on April 22, 2016, 06:10:57 PM
Put it under the passenger seat so the ladies can have some fun of their own.
:cheers:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on April 22, 2016, 06:10:57 PM
Put it under the passenger seat so the ladies can have some fun of their own.
Lad
y. Singular, remember? He's spoken for.
Quote from: Raza on April 22, 2016, 06:19:26 PM
Lady. Singular, remember? He's spoken for.
Happy wife, happy life.
AP2 radio cover. Straight race car.
Old is below, new on top
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160423/564dbed80378446f0338294141111625.jpg)
Quote from: Cookie Monster on April 22, 2016, 06:45:03 PM
Happy wife, happy life.
It's a sports car, not a Rabbit. :ducks:
This is shaping up to be a bad ass build
I feel like you're mocking me :lol:
Quote from: MrH on April 22, 2016, 07:37:18 PM
I feel like you're mocking me :lol:
Bruh, new top, new stereo door cover, subwoofer that pleases the ladies? 10/10 carspin build thread.
:devil:
Wheels tires and coilovers are coming too. It's a bit more exciting than The Manhattan Project ™ :lol:
Oh snap. Shots fired. :popcorn:
But do you have a sweet HID retrofit?!
HIDs are standard on S2000s :rockon:
I do have a kit waiting for the 4Runner though
Quote from: MrH on April 22, 2016, 06:46:43 PM
AP2 radio cover. Straight race car.
Old is below, new on top
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160423/564dbed80378446f0338294141111625.jpg)
Huh, I forgot there was a difference. I'm pretty sure the AP1 I drove was before AP2s existed, so I don't think it's possible that it was already swapped out.
It's kinda funny that they put the cover in there. It's almost like they expected owners to replace the HU and wanted to give them a stock way to hide their upgraded stereo from thieves.
It might have been upgraded on later AP1s. There were a handful of changes between 2001 and 2002. Biggest change was the center console. My center tunnel is pretty much just covered in carpet. No leather center console at all
Quote from: MrH on April 22, 2016, 09:24:21 PM
It might have been upgraded on later AP1s. There were a handful of changes between 2001 and 2002. Biggest change was the center console. My center tunnel is pretty much just covered in carpet. No leather center console at all
Yeah, they made some changes almost every year, even if they were really minor. Some were more major. Even the suspension was tweaked surprisingly often, plus there were differences between international markets. If you really get into all the details, there have been A LOT of different S2000 iterations.
Quote from: MrH on April 22, 2016, 06:46:43 PM
AP2 radio cover. Straight race car.
Old is below, new on top
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160423/564dbed80378446f0338294141111625.jpg)
Does that match, or isn't it supposed to?
I love that they gave the radio a cover in that car
Quote from: Rupert on April 23, 2016, 12:38:43 AM
Does that match, or isn't it supposed to?
Does what match? Old one was just black. New one matches the controls around the steering wheel.
Quote from: Rich on April 23, 2016, 01:39:51 AM
I love that they gave the radio a cover in that car
I mostly like it because people get in my car, and after a few minutes, say, "wait a second... where the hell is the radio?" :lol:
Quote from: MrH on April 23, 2016, 08:38:57 AM
Does what match? Old one was just black. New one matches the controls around the steering wheel.
Ah, nice. That'll look good.
Nothing really accomplished this weekend. Just waiting on things to come in still
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/mc_3pSzoj4c/maxresdefault.jpg)
Why didn't you overnight parts from Japan?!
Some guy was making it in his garage. :huh: He's from NY I think, not Japan unfortunately.
I did realize I need to pull the stereo again. I have to splice and run a wire that tells the amp to turn on when the key moves to accessory.
I'm having the honda dealership down the street change the brake pads and oil. Too lazy right now to bother.
Get some Hawk HP+ or whatever. Race car.
That's what's on it now. It's awful. I'm replacing them back to OEM pads. Hawk track pads squeal like a pig anytime you touch them, and you have to get heat in them to get them to work properly. For street driving it's miserable. I wake the entire neighborhood up driving it.
I was not trying to be a dick.... I like the detailed nature and trajectory of this build
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on April 25, 2016, 10:07:59 AM
I was not trying to be a dick.... I like the detailed nature and trajectory of this build
:lol: Good to know. I thought it was just some light hearted jabbing at my boring cosmetic touches.
In the end, it'll look a lot like this car, but Silverstone instead of Sebring Silver (mine is more of a dark gray/silver, this is classic silver)
(http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=viewimage&img=777218)
Boo RPF1s. :(
I'm guessing he still haz from BRZ
They are good wheels, "played out" or not. I'm partial to Koseis. K8rs :wub:
I still have them in the garage :lol:
Going to run a staggered tire setup once I burn through this set though. Either 255 or 265 in the rear.
265s for a car with 160lb-ft of torque :lol:
No more Infiniti World Takeover. Its all about wide tires now :lol:
Why stagger? Don't S2000's handle better with a square setup?
Two words.
Stretch.
Poke.
(http://www.failking.com/img6/38283-do-it-or-you-re-gay_f.jpg)
Quote from: Cookie Monster on April 25, 2016, 11:49:47 AM
Why stagger? Don't S2000's handle better with a square setup?
They come from the factory with a staggered setup, and are already prone to snap oversteer. Square setup is better for autoX seems to be the consensus, but I'd rather not have a death machine for street driving.
Hmm. My friend is racing an S2000 and says the square setup is much better on track.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on April 25, 2016, 02:55:04 PM
Hmm. My friend is racing an S2000 and says the square setup is much better on track.
What's he done with his suspension? Suspension upgrades may dial out some of the snap oversteer.
Quote from: MrH on April 25, 2016, 07:53:04 AM
I did realize I need to pull the stereo again. I have to splice and run a wire that tells the amp to turn on when the key moves to accessory.
You put in an aftermarket HU, right?? There is usually a power line coming out of there which goes to the amp to tell it to power on.
(Doesn't actually provide power, just relays to the amp to turn on/off.)
Yeah. Am I missing something? Here's the owner's manual. It's saying connect the blue/white cable to the amps.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-X9600BHS_OwnersManual080713.pdf (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-X9600BHS_OwnersManual080713.pdf)
This is the plug & play harness I'm using:
http://www.modifry.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_63&product_id=52 (http://www.modifry.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_63&product_id=52)
I think I basically need to pull the head unit out, find out which wire is going to the pin associated with the power on, see if that's being used, and probably splice into that?
The Remote wire is always blue with a white stripe! Thats what you need to run to the amp/crossover.....
I guess I just need to figure out what the plug n play harness I'm using is doing with the blue & white wire.
Quote from: MrH on April 26, 2016, 02:26:39 PM
I guess I just need to figure out what the plug n play harness I'm using is doing with the blue & white wire.
From the link you posted to the harness: "Amp "turn-on" lead is wired to power the S2000 antenna but may be T-tapped if you add an external amplifier in the future."
Quote from: BimmerM3 on April 26, 2016, 02:33:33 PM
From the link you posted to the harness: "Amp "turn-on" lead is wired to power the S2000 antenna but may be T-tapped if you add an external amplifier in the future."
Yup! He's gotta tap into that power antenna wire! At least it's in the rear of the vehicle!
Alright, do I do coilovers for the S2000 or 4Runner first? I'm leaning towards the 4Runner. S2000 rides surprisingly well stock. I'd like to lower it just a hair.
I'm debating whether to go with Bilstein PSS or PSS9. Basically, do I want adjustable preload in the shock so I can change the damping force. I got the adjustable coilovers for the BRZ. I played around with it until I found what I liked best, but I didn't touch it after that. They aren't indexed very well in relation to each other (is the preload at 4 clicks the same from shock to shock? Not really).
It adds considerable cost to the whole thing. I think it was like a $400 difference on the BRZ. I'm leaning towards just getting the non-adjustable ones for cheap.
Quote from: MrH on April 27, 2016, 07:39:53 AM
Alright, do I do coilovers for the S2000 or 4Runner first? I'm leaning towards the 4Runner. S2000 rides surprisingly well stock. I'd like to lower it just a hair.
I'm debating whether to go with Bilstein PSS or PSS9. Basically, do I want adjustable preload in the shock so I can change the damping force. I got the adjustable coilovers for the BRZ. I played around with it until I found what I liked best, but I didn't touch it after that.
I thought you were lifting the 4Runner? Why would you do coilovers on an SUV?
Quote from: Raza on April 27, 2016, 07:44:46 AM
I thought you were lifting the 4Runner? Why would you do coilovers on an SUV?
Lifting it just slightly. 1.5" on the 4runner. Fronts are adjustable coilovers, rears will likely just be shocks. If you lift the 4Runner 1.5" in the front, it levels it out. Stock SR5 4Runners actually have some rake to them. I could get springs for the rear that raise it 2" and make it slightly softer, but that's just added cost.
I would get shocks/springs for the truck and coilovers for the S2K
I thought the S2K rode hella rough but I drove it in NYC
For the S2000:
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/product/47-080386/93708/RWD (http://cart.bilsteinus.com/product/47-080386/93708/RWD)
For the 4Runner:
Fronts - http://cart.bilsteinus.com/productsearch/46-227294 (http://cart.bilsteinus.com/productsearch/46-227294)
Rears - http://cart.bilsteinus.com/productsearch/25-227611 (http://cart.bilsteinus.com/productsearch/25-227611)
Quote from: MrH on April 27, 2016, 08:02:06 AM
For the S2000:
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/product/47-080386/93708/RWD (http://cart.bilsteinus.com/product/47-080386/93708/RWD)
For the 4Runner:
Fronts - http://cart.bilsteinus.com/productsearch/46-227294 (http://cart.bilsteinus.com/productsearch/46-227294)
Rears - http://cart.bilsteinus.com/productsearch/25-227611 (http://cart.bilsteinus.com/productsearch/25-227611)
You're still pushing that bilstein crap?
:lol: I still got connections. I get it for cheaaaap
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160430/fc471faf31a71b9702e15f875cec404a.jpg)
There's the amp rack. Kind of hard to tell what's going on in the picture though. This is looking over the passenger seat area. The top is up. The top will sit on a plastic shelf that'll sit above this shelf when it's all done. Fuel tank and filler is to the right of the shelf there.
That's the tiny sub sitting on it. Amp fits right next to it. The whole thing is shaped to wedge in there, no need to bolt it down at all. Well worth the money spent for it.
Also, I bought a 1:18 Autoart model of my car :praise: interior is red instead of black like mine, but close enough.
How does that sub bang? Debating between 2 of those or going whole hog with 2 15s in an infinite baffle setup
Is there any rust on that thing? I've got a lot on my Miata on the control arms.
Quote from: MrH on April 30, 2016, 12:24:46 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160430/fc471faf31a71b9702e15f875cec404a.jpg)
There's the amp rack. Kind of hard to tell what's going on in the picture though. This is looking over the passenger seat area. The top is up. The top will sit on a plastic shelf that'll sit above this shelf when it's all done. Fuel tank and filler is to the right of the shelf there.
That's the tiny sub sitting on it. Amp fits right next to it. The whole thing is shaped to wedge in there, no need to bolt it down at all. Well worth the money spent for it.
Also, I bought a 1:18 Autoart model of my car :praise: interior is red instead of black like mine, but close enough.
Is that basically the spare tire well?
Quote from: BimmerM3 on April 30, 2016, 02:53:03 PM
Is that basically the spare tire well?
Yep. Fills the spare tire area. It'll all be hidden with the trunk lining when done.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on April 30, 2016, 12:38:26 PM
How does that sub bang? Debating between 2 of those or going whole hog with 2 15s in an infinite baffle setup
No idea. I haven't hooked it all up yet. I'll let you know when I get it going. I don't think I'd do two of these though. Go with a dedicated amp and sub if you're going to bother using that much space. This was a desperate attempt at taking some off the bass responsibilities off the component speakers. Size was at an absolute premium.
Quote from: Rich on April 30, 2016, 12:44:39 PM
Is there any rust on that thing? I've got a lot on my Miata on the control arms.
I've got nothing I've seen so far. This thing is cleaner than my Miata was. It's lived a pampered life :lol:
Been checking out CL, seeing some s2ks for around 10 to 12k. Might pick one up just so I can do a biased side by side unfavorable comparison to my miata......:lol:
Really though, I'd love to pick up a s2k or boxster s project for a hair under 10k.
You're going to have a tough time finding a decent one for $10k-$12k. I tried. I ended up spending more to get something that wasn't beat and riced to hell and back
Yea the things people do to S2Ks...
(http://img07.deviantart.net/2c33/i/2014/101/5/9/stanced_s2000_by_chitadesigner-d7e15e2.jpg)
Its fucking criminal
Similarly, you have idiots like this:
http://limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/5561327344.html (http://limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/5561327344.html)
Quote from: MrH on May 01, 2016, 11:21:28 AM
Similarly, you have idiots like this:
http://limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/5561327344.html (http://limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/5561327344.html)
Time will snap him back to reality. But cars are not like living organisms. Those stanced cars subframes and undercarriages will never heal
There's a shocking amount of fake S2000 ads on craigslist too. There's like 5 that keep sprouting up in the area. One is an AP2, looks super clean, comes with an OEM hardtop for $13,500 I think. It's a crazy deal, but close enough to reality that it looks like it could be real. If you send a message and seem half way educated, they don't bother answering. Reverse image search it, and it's always some ad from California from a few years back or something.
Quote from: MrH on May 01, 2016, 11:29:36 AM
There's a shocking amount of fake S2000 ads on craigslist too. There's like 5 that keep sprouting up in the area. One is an AP2, looks super clean, comes with an OEM hardtop for $13,500 I think. It's a crazy deal, but close enough to reality that it looks like it could be real. If you send a message and seem half way educated, they don't bother answering. Reverse image search it, and it's always some ad from California from a few years back or something.
What exactly is the point of a fake craigslist ad?
The people who can't string two words together, they try to get them to wire money over to secure the car. People who come off as remotely intelligent they don't bother with for the most part.
You can get nice s2ks around here for 14 to 15k, low mileage and clean. I'm sure its a matter of local market differences.
A few of the cheaper ones I've seen are actually very nice, just usually really high mileage (140 to 160k).
Mine was just under $15k. But there's a big drop off once your start shooting for under $12k.
IDK, a 15k car in may or june is a 12k car in november.
That was a $15k car in the dead of winter :lol:
Top is still too taut. I'm going to let it sit out in the sun all week. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160501/8f47d2ad2b815662b803d1b0e93ce553.jpg)
Quote from: MrH on May 01, 2016, 11:21:28 AM
Similarly, you have idiots like this:
http://limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/5561327344.html (http://limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/5561327344.html)
It makes me sad that that car is so low mileage. It deserves to be driven!
Quote from: BimmerM3 on May 02, 2016, 10:34:59 AM
It makes me sad that that car is so low mileage. It deserves to be driven!
Maybe it would have been driven more if it had more than 3 working cylinders.
:lol:
Coilovers on the way :rockon:
What did you get?
KW?
Koni?
Vogtland?
Eibach?
H&R?
Tein?
Fortune Auto?
Ohlins???
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on May 02, 2016, 12:58:40 PM
What did you get?
KW?
Koni?
Vogtland?
Eibach?
H&R?
Tein?
Fortune Auto?
Ohlins???
Viking, I think.
BC RACING THE BEST RACING :neverforget: :erjerbs:
Guys. Racelands or bust. :thumbsup:
You got Racelands?????
Cool, you know there are more honda's running racelands then their are anything else. Good stuff.
More racelands are used to stance cars than any other brand. You know they have to be good!
I actually got Bilsteins. Only $180 more than Racelands actually
I hear bilstein is subbing a lot of their product development and production out to raceland.
So you got racelands...... :lol:
:lol:
In true Bilstein fashion though, the rears for the 4Runner are backordered. Guess I'll get working on the S2000 first.
Quote from: MrH on May 01, 2016, 11:21:28 AM
Similarly, you have idiots like this:
http://limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/5561327344.html (http://limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/5561327344.html)
What did he do with the fourth cylinder?
Quote from: Soup DeVille on May 02, 2016, 02:37:22 PM
What did he do with the fourth cylinder?
Atrophy from not being used.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/af1d92e0208c3ef6adbf0b98f80cdc61.jpg)
So which one has more torque, the real one or the model? :devil:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 04, 2016, 06:02:32 PM
So which one has more torque, the real one or the model? :devil:
:golfclap:
I haven't worked on this thing in like a week. I put it outside on the parking pad. It's been rained on all week and the top is starting to loosen up a bit. It was way too taut. As in, I had to get out of the car and push with all my might to get it to latch.
Tried cleaning up the garage. Got a ton of junk thrown out. Disposed of a bunch of old oil and gas yesterday.
I need to finish this stereo once and for all and put the whole interior back together. I've still got a lot to go though. Need to order and wire power and ground cables, try and figure out a way to mount the rear speakers behind the seat (which will likely mean bending metal with a dead blow hammer). Then tear up both door panels and mount new speakers there. Ugh.
Quote from: MrH on May 10, 2016, 07:26:31 AM
I haven't worked on this thing in like a week. I put it outside on the parking pad. It's been rained on all week and the top is starting to loosen up a bit. It was way too taut. As in, I had to get out of the car and push with all my might to get it to latch.
Yup. It was comedy gold the first 10 times I had to close the top. Cartoon level struggle
The only thing that's going to help is being in the sun and heat.
Does the S2000 have a manual top?
No, come on what is this the stone age :lol:
Naw I'm pretty sure it has a power top.
Its got a power top
Quote from: Raza on May 10, 2016, 11:49:40 AM
Does the S2000 have a manual top?
Power top, but the latches stop a few inches short. You have to then pull them forward to connect them to the windshield area. Problem is, with a new top, it's so tight you have to really pull to get them to latch. I had to get out of the car to do it, but it should be fine now.
For some reason I thought all soft tops had the latches
Well, the S2000 has two. Which is dumb. Mazda's soft top design is so much better. NC and ND are a joy to use.
Quote from: MrH on May 10, 2016, 12:04:35 PM
Well, the S2000 has two. Which is dumb. Mazda's soft top design is so much better. NC and ND are a joy to use.
Granted I have nothing to compare it to, but I think it's pretty easy and fast.
Quote from: CALL_911 on May 10, 2016, 12:02:13 PM
For some reason I thought all soft tops had the latches
Z4's automatically latches. If I remember correctly, the Boxster had one manual latch.
Quote from: MrH on May 10, 2016, 12:01:27 PM
Power top, but the latches stop a few inches short. You have to then pull them forward to connect them to the windshield area. Problem is, with a new top, it's so tight you have to really pull to get them to latch. I had to get out of the car to do it, but it should be fine now.
Mine gets close enough that I don't actually have to pull the top. There's a small gap, but it's close enough that the latches themselves can do the rest of the work.
Quote from: CALL_911 on May 10, 2016, 12:06:55 PM
Granted I have nothing to compare it to, but I think it's pretty easy and fast.
Yeah, the way that the button the latches work is pretty neat, IMO.
You guys need to experience a Miata top to understand :lol:
The entire frame is lighter, no motors, and takes 2-3 seconds to put up or down.
Quote from: BimmerM3 on May 10, 2016, 12:21:01 PM
Mine gets close enough that I don't actually have to pull the top. There's a small gap, but it's close enough that the latches themselves can do the rest of the work.
Yeah, the way that the button the latches work is pretty neat, IMO.
Agreed, I really like the latch design
Quote from: MrH on May 10, 2016, 12:56:53 PM
You guys need to experience a Miata top to understand :lol:
The entire frame is lighter, no motors, and takes 2-3 seconds to put up or down.
Yeah, stock NC top is amazing. One hand up/down.
Quote from: MrH on May 10, 2016, 12:56:53 PM
You guys need to experience a Miata top to understand :lol:
The entire frame is lighter, no motors, and takes 2-3 seconds to put up or down.
I've done it. Only on the first three generations, though. Not an ND yet.
Power is nice, though. Especially when it's as effortless as the Z4's.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on May 10, 2016, 01:25:45 PM
Yeah, stock NC top is amazing. One hand up/down.
Too bad you ripped yours out.
Quote from: BimmerM3 on May 11, 2016, 07:45:53 AM
Too bad you ripped yours out.
Good thing convertibles are dumb.
I found just what this thread was missing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEMFSdKNLo8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEMFSdKNLo8)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEMFSdKNLo8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEMFSdKNLo8)
Pueden llamarme papá. Dos veces.
あなたはお父さん私を呼び出すことができます
:evildude:
Damn that S2000 looks like fun
:rockon: Had to shuffle cars around this morning and got to try to move the top a bit on the S2000. All the rain and some sunshine did the trick. I can open and close it easily from inside the car now.
Coilovers have arrived!
Quote from: MrH on May 18, 2016, 06:50:36 AM
Coilovers have arrived!
Have you even finished installing your stereo system?
Might have to shelve the racelands for a few weeks.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on May 18, 2016, 07:28:16 AM
Have you even finished installing your stereo system?
Might have to shelve the racelands for a few weeks.
Lol.
If the Si was ever totaled tomorrow (cross my fingers), the S2K would be on the very short list to replace it with. I see decent mileage AP2s around here for low to mid 20s.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160519/8c84a6a50524bc02cb412dbd8e81b17b.jpg)
More race wars prep.
Found this, might be helpful.
http://youtu.be/2ujmSBcpO0U (http://youtu.be/2ujmSBcpO0U)
:lol:
Marathon day of work on this stupid thing. Getting the power line for the stereo through the firewall was a huge pain in the ass. I'm not enjoying this at all, I just want it to be over.
I have all the door panels apart now too for the new speakers. But feeding the new speaker wire through the grommet for the doors is going to be awful.
I'm dreading my audio install but that shit is about the last thing I want to hand over to a shop. Just gotta do it in small bites. Run the power cable one day, do the radio another day, wire the speakers another day... all in all it's a shitload of work to try and do in one swipe... the last time I did a full install in one go was probably on summer break in college.
I just want to get the door speakers, head unit, amp and sub wired and working. I'll worry about adding the rear speakers later. I just want the car to be drivable again with two seats and roll bars and everything.
That's pretty much the whole system lol. I guess you already started so you might as well finish... but this is exactly why I break shit up over time.
Well, I pretty much have to do it in the day light. I'm off work today and Monday, so worse case is I work on it the rest of the weekend.
Here's the amp and subwoofer. Got power, ground, the turn on line, all the RCA cables, all that is run. Head unit is in and working. Sirius antenna and microphone are wired in. Controller to get it to interface with the dash controls is in and working.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/f48fb44f9d3ff255b44713d4448b3cae.jpg)
Now comes the monster task of running speaker wire. Once that is done, I can put this amp rack in, hook it all up, and test it. If it all works as planned, I'll start the interior reassemble.
Then all I'll have left is figure out how to mount the rear speakers and wire though, run the sub remote into the center console, install the phone mount, and then hardwire a car charger into it.
Should have just put an header and exhaust system on it and left the radio off.
Should hook up an engine sound simulator to give that 400hp/L weedwhacker some bass.
Now that I think about it, why do we use HP/L? That's mixing imperial and metric systems. KW/L?
HP/gal
Dynes per hogshead
HP per cubic furlong
What's so hard about hooking up speakers?
Routing speaker wires through the rat's nest of wires in the way
Quote from: Laconian on May 27, 2016, 04:09:35 PM
Dynes per hogshead
:nono: A dyne is a unit of force, not power. 1 dyn = 0.00001 N
Also, I suggest British Thermal Units per hour per butt.
Use a fish tape type thing. Be careful of possible sharp edges.
Quote from: Laconian on May 27, 2016, 03:39:07 PM
Now that I think about it, why do we use HP/L? That's mixing imperial and metric systems. KW/L?
Horsepower isn't necessarily an imperial metric (there is a variety of definitions, some of them based on metric measurements). Hp/CID isn't an uncommonly used figure in lots of drag race and hot rod circles.
Horsepower is a silly measurement anyways, really only useful when comparing horse driven mine water pumps.
Quote from: Rupert on May 27, 2016, 04:04:52 PM
HP/gal
I think about the GM 3800 every time I use a urinal.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on May 27, 2016, 06:39:29 PM
I think about the GM 3800 every time I use a urinal.
For me, I think of my brother's crappy V6 Mustang.
My urinal visits are much more enjoyable, because I think of 3.8L Porsche 911s.
Quote from: Laconian on May 27, 2016, 06:40:17 PM
For me, I think of my brother's crappy V6 Mustang.
:neverforget:
Phew. Done. And it all works on the first try. Gotta set filters, gains, etc. But sound coming out of both speakers, sub is bumping.
Going to prewire for the behind the seat speakers and just do it whenever. Hopefully I'll have the whole thing back together and get my garage back.
Shoulda got a carport..... :lol:
PS- your sig pic is just oh so old
I got signatures turned off. Once I detail both vehicles, I'll try to get a picture of them together
Oh, weirdest thing today happened too. So I'm laying upside down with my head buried in the foot well of the driver side, trying to fish speaker wire that's entirely too big of gauge through the door grommet.
I look up. There's a hidden button mounted underneath the steering wheel. It looks like an aftermarket switch, just a small momentary round button switch. I tried to follow the wiring, and it's snapped into what looks like an OEM harness connection.
Google searched it. Apparently the security alarm was a dealer installed accessory. If it goes off, you put the key in the ignition and press this button to kill it. Good to know. Just really strange I thought.
Secret NOS
Also, what do you mean "get your garage back?" Your garage is finally fulfilling it's destiny!
My garage is entirely filled with s2000 parts everywhere. It's so full of shit I can't fit the car in there right now.
Sounds like a good use of a garage to me, man.
Put in some serious hours. Very close to being done. Probably less than an hour left. Just gotta reassemble the center console. Missing a few screws that weren't there when I bought the thing.
Total nightmare trying to get that rear shelf back in. It's easy as shit to take out when there's no top. Put a top in the way and you have to feed things in through the trunk.
Oh well. Cars and coffee next weekend with it :rockon:
Quote from: MrH on May 30, 2016, 09:19:11 PM
Put in some serious hours. Very close to being done. Probably less than an hour left. Just gotta reassemble the center console. Missing a few screws that weren't there when I bought the thing.
Total nightmare trying to get that rear shelf back in. It's easy as shit to take out when there's no top. Put a top in the way and you have to feed things in through the trunk.
Oh well. Cars and coffee next weekend with it :rockon:
Good luck. Try not to get hit by a Mustang.
Quote from: MrH on May 30, 2016, 09:19:11 PM
Put in some serious hours. Very close to being done. Probably less than an hour left. Just gotta reassemble the center console. Missing a few screws that weren't there when I bought the thing.
Total nightmare trying to get that rear shelf back in. It's easy as shit to take out when there's no top. Put a top in the way and you have to feed things in through the trunk.
Oh well. Cars and coffee next weekend with it :rockon:
Dayton or Cincy?
Dayton. Apparently a bunch of guys from the Indy cars & coffee are coming too. I was at the Indy C&C a few weeks ago and it was awesome. Lots of cool stuff.
Interesting. Didn't know Dayton had one now
It's big too. A few guys from Cincinnati are coming up to it now.
Finished everything last night. Mostly just interior install stuff was left. Drove it into work this morning.
All the remains is a few tiny projects (rear speaker install, mount phone holder bracket, hardwire a car charger in). Still have the stupid brake pads on that are so loud. Needs a good detail.
Then finally install coilovers, alignment, roll the front fenders, and put the RPF1s on and it's done.
How does it sound
I remember deciding not to mess with the Z's stereo cause the road noise was so deafening any upgrades would have been pointless. I think the S2K was better though. Civic is good enough
The stereo? Pretty good. The sub is pretty weak, so it's just a little rumble from behind your back. The speakers are pretty loud, there's just a lot of noise when driving with the top down on the highway, passing semis and everything. Definitely need to put the rear speakers in. That'll help for sure.
I did drive with the top up on the highway today. Holy shit is that loud. Twice as loud as the miata ever was. Sounds like something wasn't sealed at the top of the windshield, but felt zero air coming though. Not sure if that's just how it is or what.
Passed 38k miles today. Took it to work on Friday, cars and coffee and the gym today. Slowly getting comfortable with it. Headroom is pretty great with the top up for how little it is. It's twitchy in the rain though, and there's no traction or stability control at all.
Might ask for one of these for my birthday this year:
(https://motoropolis.files.wordpress.com/2015/11/s2k_installed_1-800.jpg?w=685&h=455&crop=1)
Define twitchy.
To me, twitchy is 427 Cobra drifting around every corner. Which I find hard to imagine a hamster engine being capable of. :lol:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 04, 2016, 02:13:57 PM
Define twitchy.
To me, twitchy is 427 Cobra drifting around every corner. Which I find hard to imagine a hamster engine being capable of. :lol:
Glad to see that they're still some young fellas with real gasoline in their veins. :ohyeah: You would've loved my Sunbeam Tiger.
Quote from: FoMoJo on June 04, 2016, 02:16:37 PM
Glad to see that they're still some young fellas with real gasoline in their veins. :ohyeah: You would've loved my Sunbeam Tiger.
I think a Cobra or Tiger is my next project car. :ohyeah:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 04, 2016, 02:21:36 PM
I think a Cobra or Tiger is my next project car. :ohyeah:
My dream car, at the time, was a Pantera; but they were pretty expensive and not very plentiful.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 04, 2016, 02:13:57 PM
Define twitchy.
To me, twitchy is 427 Cobra drifting around every corner. Which I find hard to imagine a hamster engine being capable of. :lol:
When my last set of tires were done up front, they would break traction in the rain with mild inputs. There is a left hand sweeper near my house my car can do at about 55-60 in the dry. In the wet I couldn't give it gas past like 40. I'm imagining it like that in the back.
Mr H I bet you the stock alignment has a little rear toe out. I would look into that and maybe a smaller RSB
Smaller sway bar is never the answer. Bigger front bar!
Yeah. AP1s are twitchy compared to ap2s. Combination of alignment, suspension geometry, and really low polar moment of inertia.
I haven't spun the thing out, but near the limits in the rain, it's not a progressive feeling. Step out was quick little increments.
Once I get the coilovers on and ride height set, I'll start playing with alignment settings
Quote from: MrH on June 04, 2016, 08:40:31 PM
Yeah. AP1s are twitchy compared to ap2s. Combination of alignment, suspension geometry, and really low polar moment of inertia.
I haven't spun the thing out, but near the limits in the rain, it's not a progressive feeling. Step out was quick little increments.
Once I get the coilovers on and ride height set, I'll start playing with alignment settings
Yeah, it breaks free real quick once it starts to slide. All in all, it's best to keep that rear end going straight ahead. Lots of people have tried lots of different things, but aping the AP2 suspension alignment seems to be the most popular.
So I'm thinking about removing the front lip. It's the OEM accessory the previous owner put on. But it's cracked and scrapped up pretty bad. Also, it scrapes on my driveway and other places unless I go at a snail's pace. I'm going to be lowering it just a bit, so I think it'll have to come off anyways. Thoughts? I think the extra body cladding really dates the car.
With:
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e276/Rusted_nailz/DSC_0023.jpg)
Without:
(http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/photo-21.jpg)
Get that shit out of there
dump it
Quote from: CALL_911 on June 13, 2016, 07:25:00 AM
Get that shit out of there
+1
Looks better without the lip IMHO.
Yeah, I say get rid of it.
Wow. I'm surprised by the response. I also think it looks a lot better without. I'm the only S2000 owner with that opinion it seems like.
I think 2 seat roadsters look better without stuff tacked on. More like the old 60's style for the country 2 lane, and less like the 2fast 2 furious bridge jumper.
Quote from: MrH on June 13, 2016, 07:44:41 AM
Wow. I'm surprised by the response. I also think it looks a lot better without. I'm the only S2000 owner with that opinion it seems like.
I like the way it looks, but if it's cracked and shitty, you might as well get rid of it.
Quote from: Rich on June 13, 2016, 07:51:30 AM
I think 2 seat roadsters look better without stuff tacked on. More like the old 60's style for the country 2 lane, and less like the 2fast 2 furious bridge jumper.
:lol: Yeah, the front lip looks very early 2000's fast and furious. Even more so when it's scrapped and cracked.
I'm keeping the OEM rear spoiler though. It's subtle and gives it a more interesting shape.
Gonna go against the grain here, I like the lip
Also, I want this. But with probably red instead of yellow:
(http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=93968)
I like the front lip. :cry:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on June 13, 2016, 10:41:05 AM
I like the front lip. :cry:
Well, if the Resident Ricer likes it......definitely get rid of it.
:devil:
I'd get another one and stack it below the one you have on there now.
The front lip is a wear strip and curb feelers to prevent damage to the much costlier to replace front fascia.
Yeah I'd keep it so you're not scraping the actual front bumper
Quote from: MX793 on June 13, 2016, 11:34:03 AM
The front lip is a wear strip and curb feelers to prevent damage to the much costlier to replace front fascia.
HM solid point
Curb feeler? If anything, it risks damaging the front fascia IMO. Basically gives the front fascia a longer lever for the curb to pull with. I'd rather just not scrap anything at all.
And what's the point of having it to protect the front fascia if it looks like shit anyways? It's like those old vinyl bras for cars. "I'm protecting the front fascia and hood!" "You're also making your car ugly by covering them up. What's the point of protecting them if you never see them?"
Quote from: MrH on June 04, 2016, 01:18:36 PM
I did drive with the top up on the highway today. Holy shit is that loud. Twice as loud as the miata ever was. Sounds like something wasn't sealed at the top of the windshield, but felt zero air coming though. Not sure if that's just how it is or what.
Wind noise? That seems strange to me. My issue with highway speeds and the top up is the exhaust drone, not wind noise.
Alright, I think this is what I'm going with for the rear speakers. Should get it done this week.
(http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/page__module__images__section__img_ctrl__img__148525__file__med)
Not as clean as mounting them behind that plastic panel, with the sound coming out of the vent, but this is a lot easier and should give better sound.
Gotta cut a 5" hole in them, but outside of that it's pretty straight forward. Thoughts?
Quit wasting your time and devote your ears to VTAK
90% of S2000 time is sitting in traffic commuting. I need my podcasts blasted over the sound of semi trucks :lol:
That looks pretty ghetto, but as long as you can't see them with the seats in front of them I guess it doesn't matter.
Rip out the passenger seat and install a giant boombox
Quote from: Cookie Monster on June 20, 2016, 02:36:43 PM
That looks pretty ghetto, but as long as you can't see them with the seats in front of them I guess it doesn't matter.
Wow, the resident ricer thinks it looks ghetto? :lol:
They should be completely hidden by the seats, plus it'll look better if Mike uses the speaker grills that I assume came with the speakers.
I would think the seat would cause it to sound pretty muffled and down right horrible.
Yeah, it'll look cleaner than that. Using these speakers:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41upLhYKHhL.jpg)
Adding rear speakers adds a lot to the volume. It's currently just two speakers way down by your feet. This brings it a little closer to your head. They're slightly muffled by the seat, but apparently it doesn't sound bad.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on June 20, 2016, 03:32:56 PM
I would think the seat would cause it to sound pretty muffled and down right horrible.
This is a good point, especially since, IIRC, Mike is fairly tall and probably has the seat pushed back all the way. I'm not sure there's really a better place though - maybe the flat area under the gap in the roll hoops?
Quote from: MrH on June 20, 2016, 03:33:18 PM
Yeah, it'll look cleaner than that. Using these speakers:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41upLhYKHhL.jpg)
Hmm, a full grill would look even better, if that's an option.
I have two 6x9s right behind my seats like that. The highs are a bit muffled, but they provide great midrange and lows (combined with the sub). For the highs I rely mainly on the 6.5s in the kick panels. You have speakers on the doors, right?
I'm sure the options are slim.
Quote from: BimmerM3 on June 20, 2016, 03:38:18 PM
This is a good point, especially since, IIRC, Mike is fairly tall and probably has the seat pushed back all the way. I'm not sure there's really a better place though - maybe the flat area under the gap in the roll hoops?
Hmm, a full grill would look even better, if that's an option.
That area under the roll hoops, when you remove all of the plastic, it the actual roll hoop itself. Also, the seat belt mechanism is all crammed in there. No room for a speaker.
They don't come with a full grill :mask:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 20, 2016, 03:40:11 PM
I have two 6x9s right behind my seats like that. The highs are a bit muffled, but they provide great midrange and lows (combined with the sub). For the highs I rely mainly on the 6.5s in the kick panels. You have speakers on the doors, right?
They're in the door lowers.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on June 20, 2016, 03:40:59 PM
I'm sure the options are slim.
Yeah, the only other option really is speakers that actually fit in the middle of the roll hoop. They look really stupid and go for an insane amount of money on the S2ki forums.
Quote from: MrH on June 20, 2016, 03:48:30 PM
Yeah, the only other option really is speakers that actually fit in the middle of the roll hoop. They look really stupid and go for an insane amount of money on the S2ki forums.
If you're still having trouble with the highs after you put these in, maybe you could retrofit the roll hoop speakers from the later years.
Tweeters are small and can be mounted just about anywhere if you're willing to cut a little hole and find a path for the wiring.
Quote from: giant_mtb on June 20, 2016, 03:59:46 PM
Tweeters are small and can be mounted just about anywhere if you're willing to cut a little hole and find a path for the wiring.
:hesaid:
Quote from: giant_mtb on June 20, 2016, 03:59:46 PM
Tweeters are small and can be mounted just about anywhere if you're willing to cut a little hole and find a path for the wiring.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 20, 2016, 04:42:04 PM
:hesaid:
Well duh, but retrofitting the roll hoop speakers would avoid the cutting and keep a stock look.
Roll hoop speakers were my first thought. Spensive tho, hey? Get your fiberglass box building skills goin! :lol:
Quote from: giant_mtb on June 20, 2016, 05:40:08 PM
Roll hoop speakers were my first thought. Spensive tho, hey? Get your fiberglass box building skills goin! :lol:
Probably not cheap to get a stock set these days, though apparently some people install exposed tweeters there instead, so maybe you could find someone replacing theirs for not too much. :huh: I dunno - I haven't spent anytime researching it.
Not sure why people are installing exposed tweeters instead - maybe a lot of aftermarket tweeters won't fit.
Man, I would want to hear this setup before I started cutting the car up.
I'd do mid-bass drivers behind the seat as shown, whatever in the doors, and aftermarket A-pillar mount tweeters.
Saying that with no actual sense of the size/layout/space of an S2k dash, that is. :lol:
Quote from: Rupert on June 20, 2016, 10:25:54 PM
Man, I would want to hear this setup before I started cutting the car up.
I don't think I'd cut the car up for any speakers, no matter what they sounded like.
+1.
did the S2000 really only come with 1 speaker in each door, and that's it?!
Quote from: Rich on June 21, 2016, 05:45:22 AM
+1.
did the S2000 really only come with 1 speaker in each door, and that's it?!
It's a sports car, not a jukebox.
Quote from: MX793 on June 21, 2016, 05:50:16 AM
It's a sports car, not a jukebox.
More uplevel than the Miata, which my non-LS one is equipped with door speakers (5"?) and tweeters on the tops of the doors.
Therefore, Miata was a 19k Jukebox :praise:
A-pillar tweeters should mount pretty easily and look okay. But yeah, listen to this setup first
Z4 has speakers behind the seats.
I'm cutting up just these tiny plastic covers. If it sounds like garbage, I can go buy some more for cheap and replace them. They're $20 a piece from a dealership.
The head rest speakers look goofy
(http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/page__module__images__section__img_ctrl__img__81866__file__med)
(http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/page__module__images__section__img_ctrl__img__81864__file__med)
duct tape a boombox between the headrests.
Quote from: Rich on June 21, 2016, 07:03:04 AM
duct tape a boombox between the headrests.
Dude, get with the times.
Duct tape an iPod dock between the headrests!
The previous owner swapped to trackhawk pads, swapped to stainless steel brake lines, and was running Motul RBF 600 brake fluid.
Hand brake light won't go off, which means it's probably low on brake fluid. The more I work on this car, the more I realize the previous owner didn't really know what he was doing. I dropped it off at the dealership and just told them to flush the brakes and put new fluid in. That should fix it.
Quote from: Raza on June 21, 2016, 07:40:13 AM
Dude, get with the times.
Duct tape an iPod dock between the headrests!
You get with the times.
Gorilla tape an ipod dock between the headrests.
Quote from: MrH on June 21, 2016, 08:13:30 AM
The previous owner swapped to trackhawk pads, swapped to stainless steel brake lines, and was running Motul RBF 600 brake fluid.
Hand brake light won't go off, which means it's probably low on brake fluid. The more I work on this car, the more I realize the previous owner didn't really know what he was doing. I dropped it off at the dealership and just told them to flush the brakes and put new fluid in. That should fix it.
Strange, Honda owners are normally pretty fastidious around here......
As for the stereo, I'd rock some 6x9's in a box, just throw them behind you where the top sits.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on June 21, 2016, 08:41:52 AM
Strange, Honda owners are normally pretty fastidious around here......
:lol:!
Quote from: Rich on June 21, 2016, 05:45:22 AM
+1.
did the S2000 really only come with 1 speaker in each door, and that's it?!
In 2001, yes. Later they added rear speakers.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on June 21, 2016, 10:02:27 AM
In 2001, yes. Later they added rear speakers.
They added the roll hoop speakers in 2006, IIRC. At some point, I think they also upgraded the quality of the HU and door speakers. Not sure what year though. I don't think there were ever OEM rear speakers other than the roll hoop tweeters though, if that's what you meant.
OEM roll hoop tweeters:
(http://s2000.byteserve.com.au/images/headrestspeakers.jpg)
dear god, that's the way to do it.
I looked those up. Just for the plastic garnish to make all that work, you have to buy new roll hoops too (the surrounding plastic is sonic welded around the metal bars). $176 per side, and that doesn't include the speakers or covers. Brutal.
Quote from: MrH on June 21, 2016, 01:39:07 PM
I looked those up. Just for the plastic garnish to make all that work, you have to buy new roll hoops too (the surrounding plastic is sonic welded around the metal bars). $176 per side, and that doesn't include the speakers or covers. Brutal.
Doesn't sound too bad to me.
That's probably a $500 project for tiny tin can speakers next to my head. I'll pass.
Put 6x9s on the outside of the door, so your neighbors at the stoplight can hear your fire beats
Just watched this auction end.
http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2001-honda-s2000-6/ (http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2001-honda-s2000-6/)
23K miles, pretty low.
Damn, only $17k for that? Seems like a steal...
Quote from: Cookie Monster on June 21, 2016, 03:55:50 PM
Damn, only $17k for that? Seems like a steal...
There was a nice red one around here for about the same money(similar miles too).
Looked and found this one on local listing.
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/cto/5608476863.html (http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/cto/5608476863.html)
They are cheap, IMO. Certainly NOT the next NSX(or maybe even Type R) with regard to resale.
We got ours (an '04 with 41k on it) for $17
Quote from: CaminoRacer on June 21, 2016, 05:19:10 PM
Lol deal of the century
:lol:
Fo sho, I would have easily went as high as $20.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on June 21, 2016, 08:41:52 AM
Strange, Honda owners are normally pretty fastidious around here......
:clap: :evildude:
Quote from: Cookie Monster on June 21, 2016, 03:55:50 PM
Damn, only $17k for that? Seems like a steal...
Mine was '01, 37k miles, got it for a hair under $15k. Cracked rear plastic window though.
Yeah almost all low mileage AP1s are under 20k and most are around $15k from what seen.
No more squealing brakes!!
Drives great. Hand brake light is still on though. Not sure if I have to reset it or what.
Just put a sticker over it.
Arrrrrgh. Took the center console off. There's a momentary switch that senses whether the parking brake is up or not. With the handle down, there's still like a 5 mm gap from the metal tab hitting the switch. It's not a tension issue on the parking brake cable. It's like the geometry of the parking brake mechanism itself hits a hard stop prior to making contact with the momentary switch.
I'm guessing the previous guy but something together wrong, but it's just not jumping out to me what it is.
Can't you just bend the mounting tab?
Mounting tab is just a square. When the parking brake is fully released, it should hit the face of it flat on top of the button. With it fully down, it's just offset. There isn't really a direction I can bend it to get it to hit the button square.
Right now, the best option would just be to make a spacer of some sort. I've got some Sugru that could work I guess
The switch doesn't have a threaded body for adjustment? I guess a picture would help. Otherwise if nothing is bent or damaged then it must be a worn switch possibly with limited travel.
Give me a second. I'll post some pics.
Quote from: MrH on June 22, 2016, 06:36:56 PM
Mounting tab is just a square. When the parking brake is fully released, it should hit the face of it flat on top of the button. With it fully down, it's just offset. There isn't really a direction I can bend it to get it to hit the button square.
Right now, the best option would just be to make a spacer of some sort. I've got some Sugru that could work I guess
Clearly a sign that that car has been in a serious accident that bent the frame. Better unload it now. I've give you $100.
https://vimeo.com/171850757 (https://vimeo.com/171850757)
Alright, I attempted to make a video explaining it.
Can't you just bend that little square thing down a little bit?
You're probably right about the switch though.
Lol, alright, I took a feeler gauge to see how close it was to hitting the switch. Then just tested the switch. You just barely need to make contact with the switch to get it to open. One hit with a dead blow hammer didn't even bend the tab a visible amount, but it's enough to touch. That was stupid
Told you, thats how you fix things on these hondas, bend it or hit it with something.
Replacing the cabin filter because the car has a dirty old smell to it. That's definitely the source. Didn't know cabin filters could get that nasty in 38k miles.
17 years...
Quote from: MX793 on June 22, 2016, 06:59:07 PM
Clearly a sign that that car has been in a serious accident that bent the frame. Better unload it now. I've give you $100.
:lol:
It's a 2001 MY. Built in CY 2000. 2000-2016 is 16 years
So neither of us were right. :lol:
Quote from: MrH on June 22, 2016, 07:13:44 PM
Lol, alright, I took a feeler gauge to see how close it was to hitting the switch. Then just tested the switch. You just barely need to make contact with the switch to get it to open. One hit with a dead blow hammer didn't even bend the tab a visible amount, but it's enough to touch. That was stupid
Just tape the damned switch down.
You don't seem like the kind of moron who needs reminding that his parking brake is on.
Sometimes I am. I get in too much of a rush and release the parking brake a notch or two before it's completely off. I like having a reminder that I was a numbskull, so I can rectify it.
Quote from: Rich on June 23, 2016, 06:45:14 AM
Sometimes I am. I get in too much of a rush and release the parking brake a notch or two before it's completely off. I like having a reminder that I was a numbskull, so I can rectify it.
If I'm remembering my S2000 right; the parking brake light wouldn't even come on until the lever was a couple inches up.
Maybe that was the Civic?
Quote from: Rich on June 23, 2016, 06:45:14 AM
Sometimes I am. I get in too much of a rush and release the parking brake a notch or two before it's completely off. I like having a reminder that I was a numbskull, so I can rectify it.
It does happen every once in a while that you're on that last notch and you don't notice it. It's just one of those concessions to reality that you can't give 100% focus to everything all the time.
Depends on how much you bend that tab apparently. One click up and it comes on for me now.
I'm going to try and remove the front lip and detail this thing on Saturday. I need to use a headlight restorer on the headlights a bit too. They're a little foggy. I'll post some pictures once it's all done.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on June 23, 2016, 07:28:25 AM
If I'm remembering my S2000 right; the parking brake light wouldn't even come on until the lever was a couple inches up.
Maybe that was the Civic?
I keep forgetting you once had awesome modern cars before kids :lol:
What do you have now? The wagon still? Is there a giant cadillac in the garage still?
Quote from: MrH on June 23, 2016, 07:54:32 AM
I keep forgetting you once had awesome modern cars before kids :lol:
What do you have now? The wagon still? Is there a giant cadillac in the garage still?
Yes and yes.
There's also a pickup truck, but I don't like to mention it.
Now I've got a place to put my phone for Waze use.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160625/9fcdec771913f8e0bb7b8fae7be7abc0.jpg)
yet there is a blue Subaru under every post... :ohyeah:
Still bitter about my outdated signature I see. :lol:
Quote from: MrH on June 29, 2016, 01:10:28 PM
Still bitter about my outdated signature I see. :lol:
Not bitter. I do long for some car buying/selling shenanigans as you experience though :thumbsup:
He's just leaving it there because he realizes he made a mistake, or doesn't want to admit to owning a honda.
:lol:
So I wonder how this is going to pan out. Looks nice, but the lack of top is going to really hurt it. Might be a killer deal at around 10K.
http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2001-honda-s2000-5/ (http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2001-honda-s2000-5/)
It has a reserve on it? That's what the comments say on the site, but I don't see where that's listed.
I think it's worth quite a bit more than $10k.
Quote from: MrH on June 30, 2016, 10:41:21 AM
It has a reserve on it? That's what the comments say on the site, but I don't see where that's listed.
I think it's worth quite a bit more than $10k.
You would think that.....:lol:
Seriously though, it has no top and it has some light accident history on the car fax. The wing is questionable for some buyers and it's a AP1(a similar mileage, better condition stock car sold for 14 or so on the same site).
We'll see what it goes for.
Final bid was 10,100, reserve not met. Seller revealed the reserve to be 12K. Apparently he's dropping it off at a local dealer that offered to buy it.
Would have been a great deal for 10K.
Alright, now that I've been driving this quite a bit:
GOOD
- Engine. This whole car is awesome because of this engine.
- Gearbox is nice too. 2nd gear can grind a little if you rush a redline shift from 1st.
- Steering. It's electric, not a ton of feel, but silly fast rack which I like.
- Turn in is really quick
- Sound. Engine makes good noises
- chassis is really solid. Not a ton of cowl shake.
BAD
- Rides like shit. Way too little rebound damping. Rear end feels like a pogo stick mid corner. Hopefully coilovers will fix this once I get them on.
- It looks like a 16 year old car. Paint and headlights are pretty beat up. I got a quote for a professional detail and Opticoat finished. Debating whether to pull the trigger or not. 4Runner + S2000 full detail and opticoat would be $1350. Not bad IMO
- There are more rattles, squeaks, road noise, and wind noise than you can imagine. It's not a comfortable car to daily at all. I think I just need to sack up and put dynomat in the thing.
- Shift knob. It's metal and gets hot.
- not a lot of room here. It's tighter than the NC
Just need to decide if I want to dump a lot of cash into this or not. Probably keeping this for at least a few years, so I'm leaning towards spending now so it's nice and pretty.
Buy the detailing stuff yourself. Once you have it you can keep using it. And save money.
I need to put the bilstein shocks back in the Miata to see if it helps. Mine is way to bouncy also.
Squeeks rattles noise blah blah blah... Pansy
:lol:
I can, but I'm not a detailing pro. I can do a pretty good job if it's in good shape to begin with. The BRZ was clean enough to eat off of.
But this paint needs a lot of work. Opticoated cars are cake to take care of.
Opticoated?
never heard of it, probably some half ass polymer sealer with a fancy name.
Personally I'd find something with better marketing and trendier names, maybe something with "juice" in the name. those sound cooler. You might have to spend more but I"m sure you'll end up with the same product in the end.
Dragon skin w/ hyper juice.
:lol:
This guy has really good reviews. I think I'm going to go for it.
I'm not a pro and I cleaned up the Miata damn good. Everything but the front bumper at least. A pro can't even help that.
It takes a lot of time to get the dish soap wash, clay bar, polish, and sealant done. Once you've got it completed and sealant on it, its done for the year. At least for me. After that just regular washes and maybe a wax here and there.
The biggest project I have right now is stripping the clear coat on the 949 wheels and refinishing them, but yours look fine.
So, what are runners up for the next car?
ND, perhaps?
Sand and buff those lights, I found a picture of my old miata. The passenger side light was completely yellow and looked like crap. The driver side light was new(aftermarket). I spend about 1 hour on the passenger side and it turned out damn good.
(http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp273/FlatBlackCaddy/20140524_164017_zpstbtgnftm.jpg)
Granted mazda probably uses a higher quality lens material than honduh.
I used some 3M Plastic polish on my Mazda's lights and they came out pretty nice. Didn't last more than 9 months before they were all hazed over again, though. Need to do the same with the Jetta, as I notice that car's lenses are getting a bit hazy.
You need to (usually) sand a fair amount of the UV damaged plastic off. This is usually, IMO, why you get the rehazing.
I sanded the miata light with 400 grit, then 600, then 800 and then compounded it out before polishing it. While sanding it, you can see the dust change to a fine white powder when you get all the bad yellow crap off.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on July 11, 2016, 04:38:21 PM
You need to (usually) sand a fair amount of the UV damaged plastic off. This is usually, IMO, why you get the rehazing.
I sanded the miata light with 400 grit, then 600, then 800 and then compounded it out before polishing it. While sanding it, you can see the dust change to a fine white powder when you get all the bad yellow crap off.
My understanding is that the re-haze is because the UV protective coating on the lens has degraded or worn away. Sanding, or polishing, the surface just removes the layer of damaged material and exposes fresh, but also not UV resistant, plastic that will likewise just haze over again. You can buy restoration kits that include, in addition to polish and polishing tools, a UV treatment to restore the UV resistance to the plastic.
I've heard the arguement both ways. I've seen consumer kits with and without a UV coating, I've talked to shop guys that with sand and reclear or some that will sand and just polish. I've talked to a guy who made a living by refinishing OEM lamps for a large automotive recycler, he just sanded(4,6,800) and then used compound and polish on them. The lights were sold as OEM refinished, usually to body shops doing insurance collision work, in both a shop(and insurance) environment that had warranty systems.
He never had an issue with the thousands of lights he did. I've never had any issue with any of the ones I did and the results were always great.
Coating or no, the underlying material will always be exposed to some degree of UV rays. And from a design standpoint, it's proximity on the vehicle and it's resulting exposure to UV rays will necessitate it to have some degree of UV stability.
The same guys that tell me that it will yellow in "weeks" are the same ones that say it's happened to them when they didn't clear them.
I've done them without that, and never saw it go back. Either they did something wrong or I'm just lucky.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on July 11, 2016, 05:19:04 PM
I've heard the arguement both ways. I've seen consumer kits with and without a UV coating, I've talked to shop guys that with sand and reclear or some that will sand and just polish. I've talked to a guy who made a living by refinishing OEM lamps for a large automotive recycler, he just sanded(4,6,800) and then used compound and polish on them. The lights were sold as OEM refinished, usually to body shops doing insurance collision work, in both a shop(and insurance) environment that had warranty systems.
He never had an issue with the thousands of lights he did. I've never had any issue with any of the ones I did and the results were always great.
Coating or no, the underlying material will always be exposed to some degree of UV rays. And from a design standpoint, it's proximity on the vehicle and it's resulting exposure to UV rays will necessitate it to have some degree of UV stability.
The same guys that tell me that it will yellow in "weeks" are the same ones that say it's happened to them when they didn't clear them.
I've done them without that, and never saw it go back. Either they did something wrong or I'm just lucky.
If there is an outer layer of UV blocker, the material beneath the surface will be protected from UV exposure.
Automotive basecoat has uv resistance, even though the clearcoat operates as and bears the brunt of the uv exposure.
I guess that was my point. I'm guessing the underlying plastic material has "enough" uv protection just due to its intended exposure. Enough, as in in has some. How much? I don't know, enough to last some time(months, a few years?). Not enough to probably meet the intended life of the lamp from the factory (which is probably atleast 10 years) but certainly enough not to re yellow within weeks of refinishing.
Like I said, I'm sure the ones that reyellow didnt actually have all the damaged plastic removed, which is understandable since it takes a fair amount of sanding to remove it.
I had good luck keeping the yellow away by having the lights clearcoated after being treated. It worked well
Embrace the yellow. Use the rest of the paint
Quote from: MrH on July 11, 2016, 02:17:53 PM
I can, but I'm not a detailing pro. I can do a pretty good job if it's in good shape to begin with. The BRZ was clean enough to eat off of.
But this paint needs a lot of work. Opticoated cars are cake to take care of.
You'd surprise yourself. Opticoat? $1300? Damn, son. I'd make both of your vehicles look brand spankin new inside and out for $800 less. Enjoy your overpriced paint sealant. :lol:
Quote from: giant_mtb on July 11, 2016, 11:50:23 PM
You'd surprise yourself. Opticoat? $1300? Damn, son. I'd make both of your vehicles look brand spankin new inside and out for $800 less. Enjoy your overpriced paint sealant. :lol:
But then how soon would he have to come back to you? Part of the allure is that the finish becomes less high maintenance. Sure you could make it looks just as good if not better, but for how long? A week? A month?
Quote from: 68_427 on July 12, 2016, 12:02:23 AM
But then how soon would he have to come back to you? Part of the allure is that the finish becomes less high maintenance. Sure you could make it looks just as good if not better, but for how long? A week? A month?
The allure of any polishing/waxing/sealing is that it becomes less maintenance. How soon it has to go back is dependent on so many factors (miles driven, how/often it's washed, driven in winter, take it to camp often, etc etc) that it's really not an answerable question. I see cars every year that are still beading water while others look like they're back to square one or worse than the year before. For a low miles second vehicle, I'd see it once a year and it would look the same every time. Waxes are weaker, sealants are stronger, but there's only so much you can spend on a bottle of liquid glass before it's just name games and marketing.
P.S. I'm sure they will look fantastic. Get it done once and keep it up yourself thereafter. It's wonderfully satisfying.
P.P.S. Keep in mind I'm used to YouPee prices which probably don't reflect price standards you're used to or expect, so they sometimes seem shocking to me. :lol:
$1350 would be for both vehicles to get full paint correction and opticoated, not just the S2000.
Yeah, the appeal is to get it to a maintainable state. The BRZ I got fresh from the dealership with the stickers still on. I did the first wash, polished to get any orange peel or swirls out, and kept it pretty much perfect. I think the S2000 is outside my skill set to get it back to looking brand new.
Or, you could take that 1300 into consideration on a trade in for a new ND. Would solve the paint issue, and the headlight issue, and some of the other problems. Trade the S2K, take the 1500 you would have spent and finance a few bucks and bamn, new ND.
:lol: No. I'm in too far at this point.
$28,000
-$1300
= $26,700
S2000 = $16,000?
I'm not going to finance $10,700 to get an ND instead. That's $400+ a month for 2 years.
Lol, if this dealership didn't have such terrible reviews and this was actually the price, I'd go buy it today:
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2017&zip=45342&listingType=used&listingTypes=used%2Ccertified&transmissionCode=MAN&transmissionCodes=MAN&showcaseListingId=429719692&trim1=MIATA%7CClub&mmt=%5BMAZDA%5BMIATA%5BMIATA%257CClub%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&modelCode1=MIATA&sortBy=derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=100005810&startYear=2016&makeCode1=MAZDA&firstRecord=0&searchRadius=500&listingId=432804649&Log=0 (http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2017&zip=45342&listingType=used&listingTypes=used%2Ccertified&transmissionCode=MAN&transmissionCodes=MAN&showcaseListingId=429719692&trim1=MIATA%7CClub&mmt=%5BMAZDA%5BMIATA%5BMIATA%257CClub%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&modelCode1=MIATA&sortBy=derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=100005810&startYear=2016&makeCode1=MAZDA&firstRecord=0&searchRadius=500&listingId=432804649&Log=0)
Quote from: MrH on July 12, 2016, 07:42:46 AM
:lol: No. I'm in too far at this point.
$28,000
-$1300
= $26,700
S2000 = $16,000?
I'm not going to finance $10,700 to get an ND instead. That's $400+ a month for 2 years.
Or 200 dollars a month for 4 years. That's like less than 7 dollars a day, people spend that on a coffee or a value meal at micky d's.
Quote from: MrH on July 12, 2016, 07:47:39 AM
Lol, if this dealership didn't have such terrible reviews and this was actually the price, I'd go buy it today:
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2017&zip=45342&listingType=used&listingTypes=used%2Ccertified&transmissionCode=MAN&transmissionCodes=MAN&showcaseListingId=429719692&trim1=MIATA%7CClub&mmt=%5BMAZDA%5BMIATA%5BMIATA%257CClub%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&modelCode1=MIATA&sortBy=derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=100005810&startYear=2016&makeCode1=MAZDA&firstRecord=0&searchRadius=500&listingId=432804649&Log=0 (http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2017&zip=45342&listingType=used&listingTypes=used%2Ccertified&transmissionCode=MAN&transmissionCodes=MAN&showcaseListingId=429719692&trim1=MIATA%7CClub&mmt=%5BMAZDA%5BMIATA%5BMIATA%257CClub%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&modelCode1=MIATA&sortBy=derivedpriceASC&showcaseOwnerId=100005810&startYear=2016&makeCode1=MAZDA&firstRecord=0&searchRadius=500&listingId=432804649&Log=0)
Interesting, seems like a good deal so I did a search in my area. Only found one used 2016 Miata for sale, from a private seller, and the asking price is 23,500 on a not option "sport" version...which I think works out to around ~2000 less than MSRP. I am pretty sure I could buy a brand new Miata for 2000 off MSRP. :lol:
Guess I don't blame the guy for trying. Who knows maybe someone out there won't pay attention and will pay that asking price.
$19,500 is a crazy deal for that car. That MSRPs for $31,000. And it has 700 miles on it... :confused:
If it was near me I'd probably give it some serious thought, that is definitely a solid discount for being "used."
Either that or a shady bait and switch "typo". I'm betting on the latter :lol:
Byers mis-lists stuff all the time. It's probably a typo, I wouldn't get my hopes up.
:cry:
If it can't rev to 9k RPM it's shitty in comparison
It was a "clerical error" :rolleyes:
So what's the real price?
$29,500.
Offer him 19,5.
I should.
The guy had to the balls to answer the email like this:
"Unfortunately there has been an clerical error on the internet price. The price is $29,500 not $19,500.
Do you still have interest in the vehicle?"
Should I just respond: So will you take $19,500? :lol:
Quote from: MrH on July 12, 2016, 11:39:02 AM
I should.
The guy had to the balls to answer the email like this:
"Unfortunately there has been an clerical error on the internet price. The price is $29,500 not $19,500.
Do you still have interest in the vehicle?"
Should I just respond: So will you take $19,500? :lol:
Yes you should
Yes, or send him a check for 19,5, tell him it's a clerical error it was supposed to be 29,5.
Quote from: MrH on July 12, 2016, 11:39:02 AM
I should.
The guy had to the balls to answer the email like this:
"Unfortunately there has been an clerical error on the internet price. The price is $29,500 not $19,500.
Do you still have interest in the vehicle?"
Should I just respond: So will you take $19,500? :lol:
Funny how "clerical error" can still be online after he's aware of it. This isn't a paper that's been printed.
Alright, I'll give him until this evening to correct it. Then I'll lay the sass on thickkkk.
They just going to ignore your ass
No, remember H has The Power to hard negotiate himself $10k off what they want.
I have the power to change Coke into Pepsi.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on July 12, 2016, 12:22:42 PM
I have the power to change Coke into Pepsi.
I have the power to de-carbonate soda.
I have the power to turn snow yellow!!!
The guy opened the door by asking if I was still interested. I'll just respond with "Yes" :lol:
I have zero intention on trying to really negotiate him down to $19,500.
I think that just makes you an asshole with to much free time, but it could be funny, so go right ahead. :lol:
This reminds me of the time I posted that dealerships YouTube channel who responded to you via video on TCL and they got trolled to the point they made a video response to my thread.
Quote from: MrH on July 11, 2016, 01:17:31 PM
Alright, now that I've been driving this quite a bit:
GOOD
- Engine. This whole car is awesome because of this engine.
- Gearbox is nice too. 2nd gear can grind a little if you rush a redline shift from 1st.
- Steering. It's electric, not a ton of feel, but silly fast rack which I like.
- Turn in is really quick
- Sound. Engine makes good noises
- chassis is really solid. Not a ton of cowl shake.
BAD
- Rides like shit. Way too little rebound damping. Rear end feels like a pogo stick mid corner. Hopefully coilovers will fix this once I get them on.
- It looks like a 16 year old car. Paint and headlights are pretty beat up. I got a quote for a professional detail and Opticoat finished. Debating whether to pull the trigger or not. 4Runner + S2000 full detail and opticoat would be $1350. Not bad IMO
- There are more rattles, squeaks, road noise, and wind noise than you can imagine. It's not a comfortable car to daily at all. I think I just need to sack up and put dynomat in the thing.
- Shift knob. It's metal and gets hot.
- not a lot of room here. It's tighter than the NC
Just need to decide if I want to dump a lot of cash into this or not. Probably keeping this for at least a few years, so I'm leaning towards spending now so it's nice and pretty.
Pretty much all Hondas of that era sooo suffered because of ride, NVH and interior rattle problems. IMO it held Honda back a fair amount (not for the S2000 of course, being a niche product). Many/most of those problems seem to be fixed these days but it took too long to get there.
Quote from: 68_427 on July 12, 2016, 01:43:48 PM
This reminds me of the time I posted that dealerships YouTube channel who responded to you via video on TCL and they got trolled to the point they made a video response to my thread.
:lol: Link please
Quote from: MrH on July 12, 2016, 01:54:17 PM
:lol: Link please
Thread got deleted but don't know if the dealership kept the video up
By the end of this summer, I want to get my car all taken care of myself. Fix the paint and the dents from the vandalism (I mean, it's been a year since it happened), then get it detailed fully, exterior and interior. Convertibles get a lot of crap in the interior. And I want to get the one headlamp refinished.
Quote from: Raza on July 12, 2016, 03:30:05 PM
By the end of this summer, I want to get my car all taken care of myself. Fix the paint and the dents from the vandalism (I mean, it's been a year since it happened), then get it detailed fully, exterior and interior. Convertibles get a lot of crap in the interior. And I want to get the one headlamp refinished.
Yeahhhhh convertibles and window-down driven vehicles get nice and dirty really quick and every single nook and cranny will be layered with some amouny of dirt. I love having a truck where I don't care that there's always a layer of dust on the dash. Unacceptable in the Audi, windows always up. :lol:
Quote from: MrH on July 12, 2016, 04:57:23 AM
$1350 would be for both vehicles to get full paint correction and opticoated, not just the S2000.
Yeah, the appeal is to get it to a maintainable state. The BRZ I got fresh from the dealership with the stickers still on. I did the first wash, polished to get any orange peel or swirls out, and kept it pretty much perfect. I think the S2000 is outside my skill set to get it back to looking brand new.
Paint correction as in wet sanding and wheeling or just wheeling? j/w
Quote from: giant_mtb on July 12, 2016, 07:00:31 PM
Yeahhhhh convertibles and window-down driven vehicles get nice and dirty really quick and every single nook and cranny will be layered with some amouny of dirt. I love having a truck where I don't care that there's always a layer of dust on the dash. Unacceptable in the Audi, windows always up. :lol:
I've learned to live with it. Consequences of open air freedom. It's worth it. :lol:
Quote from: Raza on July 12, 2016, 08:05:02 PM
I've learned to live with it. Consequences of open air freedom. It's worth it. :lol:
Yup.
Quote from: giant_mtb on July 12, 2016, 07:05:23 PM
Paint correction as in wet sanding and wheeling or just wheeling? j/w
I don't know your detailing terminology. He's polishing the clear coat to the point there's no imperfections in it...?
Anyways, dropped the s2000 off today to him. He said he'll be done by Friday evening. He's got a team of three and hes starting this afternoon.
He was finishing up a new S class while I was there :wub:
So you dropped it off, paid him 1200 dollars. He's going to sit there and drink beer for a few days and then run it down to zebart for a 99 dollar polish and bring it back on friday.
Post pics when you get it. :lol:
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on July 13, 2016, 10:07:47 AM
So you dropped it off, paid him 1200 dollars. He's going to sit there and drink beer for a few days and then run it down to zebart for a 99 dollar polish and bring it back on friday.
Post pics when you get it. :lol:
:lol:
Quote from: MrH on July 13, 2016, 09:35:43 AM
I don't know your detailing terminology. He's polishing the clear coat to the point there's no imperfections in it...?
Gotcha, so buffing it out.
Wet sanding (aka color sanding) is when they wetsand the whole car to really reallllly get rid of every clear coat imperfection like orange peel and any other unevenness, naturally followed by buffing/polishing.
I'm pumped to see 'em all spiffed up!
Got a call from the guy today. His first pass at the correction left him a bit worried. Said the hood was in such rough shape. He went quite a bit more aggressive and said it looks great now.
Another interesting note: he said there's been some paint work done on the passenger side. He said it was done well, but it's way too thick to be a factory job there. Only spot it really shows is on one of the side sills. I'm not too bummed. It's not a show car.
I pick it up on Monday, and leave the 4Runner in its place to get done next.
Here are some pictures he sent me. Looks great IMO
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160715/4c7ef683ecb5e20479e0261bc91f1a4e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160715/59acbef5c91d13c590a8c582b48201a7.jpg)
How much did you pay?
Nothing yet :lol:
Nice pictures, have any from after he detailed it?
:lol:
He dun good. Looks great mike. Now drive the damn thing
I wish my silver paint looked as good, but the clearcoat has been debris blasted and large areas have come off.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/FBE63E58-C4A6-41B8-B91D-63B1F26F2ACC_zpslymipwbh.jpg)
There was a visible line where the old front lip was attached. From the pictures, looks like he got that completely gone too. Headlights are nice and clear and he put a clear bra over them to prevent them from fading again.
Honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if I made up the cost of this detail when I sell the car.
I mean I could have set you up with a buddy...
Quote from: 2o6 on July 15, 2016, 02:31:27 PM
I mean I could have set you up with a buddy...
H doesn't roll like that. :nono:
:lol:
Quote from: Rich on July 15, 2016, 01:44:53 PM
I wish my silver paint looked as good, but the clearcoat has been debris blasted and large areas have come off.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l21/iamrich17/FBE63E58-C4A6-41B8-B91D-63B1F26F2ACC_zpslymipwbh.jpg)
Your plate literally says "foreigner". Was that on purpose or a hilarious coincidence?
If I wasn't on mobile if have found a pic of a silver s2000 at Delta sonic
Quote from: Rockraven on July 15, 2016, 08:01:24 PM
Your plate literally says "foreigner". Was that on purpose or a hilarious coincidence?
I had that plate for 3 years and it never crossed my mind :lol:
This opticoat stuff is awesome. Whole car is silky smooth to the touch. Everything just beads and falls off. I'm going to be using Optimum's No Rinse wash. Should be interesting. I can wash the whole thing with two buckets in the garage in 20 minutes.
I should get the coilovers on in the next two weeks. Hoping this fixes my ride issues. The rear of the car in rebound is the biggest issue. The back end feels like a pogo stick and it scares the shit out of me mid corner. Hit any bump while the car is loaded up, and I feel like the rear will unload and come around. Still on the original shocks, but they don't feel blown. It's just a twitchy setup I think.
I also need to tackle sound issues. The car is unbearable with the top up. You can't even have a conversation with a passenger. The latch rattles I found a fix for online. Same with the wind noise. I need to modify the striker plates to pull the top down further to get a better seal. The clutch grown I'm going to have to live with unless I want to put a new clutch in. I need to dynomat the trunk and doors and see where that gets me. I'm trying to avoid ripping all the interior carpet up to put dynomat down.
Quote from: MrH on July 19, 2016, 09:52:20 AM
This opticoat stuff is awesome. Whole car is silky smooth to the touch. Everything just beads and falls off. I'm going to be using Optimum's No Rinse wash. Should be interesting. I can wash the whole thing with two buckets in the garage in 20 minutes.
I should get the coilovers on in the next two weeks. Hoping this fixes my ride issues. The rear of the car in rebound is the biggest issue. The back end feels like a pogo stick and it scares the shit out of me mid corner. Hit any bump while the car is loaded up, and I feel like the rear will unload and come around. Still on the original shocks, but they don't feel blown. It's just a twitchy setup I think.
I also need to tackle sound issues. The car is unbearable with the top up. You can't even have a conversation with a passenger. The latch rattles I found a fix for online. Same with the wind noise. I need to modify the striker plates to pull the top down further to get a better seal. The clutch grown I'm going to have to live with unless I want to put a new clutch in. I need to dynomat the trunk and doors and see where that gets me. I'm trying to avoid ripping all the interior carpet up to put dynomat down.
Is that with a stock exhaust? Mine is loud, but not that bad.
Yeah, stock exhaust. The exhaust is kind of loud for being stock, but I'm totally fine with it. Issue is road noise, drivetrain noise, wind noise, and rattles.
Yalls is pussies
Quote from: MrH on July 19, 2016, 10:06:21 AM
Yeah, stock exhaust. The exhaust is kind of loud for being stock, but I'm totally fine with it. Issue is road noise, drivetrain noise, wind noise, and rattles.
Ah. I wonder if they added more sound deadening in the AP2s. Exhaust drone is by far the loudest thing in mine.
Quote from: MrH on July 19, 2016, 09:52:20 AM
I also need to tackle sound issues. The car is unbearable with the top up. You can't even have a conversation with a passenger. The latch rattles I found a fix for online. Same with the wind noise. I need to modify the striker plates to pull the top down further to get a better seal. The clutch grown I'm going to have to live with unless I want to put a new clutch in. I need to dynomat the trunk and doors and see where that gets me. I'm trying to avoid ripping all the interior carpet up to put dynomat down.
One of the things I absolutely despised about my Z. When the roads were wet the splashing off the rear tires was so loud I thought a door or window was open. Common problem with sports cars in general apparently which is silly IMO.
Maybe I was just so used to it, but I don't remember my miata being this loud at all.
I think it's mostly just little quirky design issues that they largely fixed by the time the AP2 came around. Just annoying to have to hunt all of these down and fix them. If it was just road noise, I'd be ok with it. It's the rattles, squeaking interior panels, wind noise, and buzzing clutch that I can't just accept.
Quote from: MrH on July 19, 2016, 09:52:20 AM
This opticoat stuff is awesome. Whole car is silky smooth to the touch. Everything just beads and falls off. I'm going to be using Optimum's No Rinse wash. Should be interesting. I can wash the whole thing with two buckets in the garage in 20 minutes.
I never heard of this stuff before TBH. After some googling I think I might give this stuff a try next time I buy a car.
All the old corvette guys are into xpel, or something like that. Practically are jacking off in their wheaties over it.
Might want to try that too, the xpel, not the wheaties thing.
This thing needs sport bike mufflers.
The stock exhaust is fine.
It started acting funny on the drive in this morning. Pulled right on throttle, pulled left off throttle. Pair that with the really quick steering, and it was a bit goofy to drive. Get to work and sure enough: big screw stuck in my back right tire.
And I don't have a spare. Going to try and limp it to midas down the street to batch it so I can get home.
I thought they came with a spare tucked up into the bulkhead behind the passengers
Quote from: Rich on July 21, 2016, 07:52:26 AM
I thought they came with a spare tucked up into the bulkhead behind the passengers
That's where my amp and tiny subwoofer are now :lol:
:rolleyes:
Quote from: SVT_Power on July 21, 2016, 11:22:32 AM
#ricerlife
Priority, man. Thumping bass trumps having a spare [says the guy whose car doesn't come with a spare]
Quote from: MX793 on July 21, 2016, 11:27:41 AM
Priority, man. Thumping bass trumps having a spare [says the guy whose car doesn't come with a spare]
Spares are for losers.
I want a STRIKE tire!
Carl: Sir, your spare ribs, cooked just the way you like them.
Mr. Burns: Spare ribs eh? I've played around with ten pins a time or two in my life and, to me, the term spare reeks of second best. Give me ten full frames of strike ribs. [to Lenny]: And you, find my doctor and find out why I'd ask for something as insane as strike ribs.
I've had a slow leak once in my 13 years of driving. Take the spare out, and get a nail within a couple of weeks. Figures.
Anyways, took it to Midas down the street. $20 later, and it's patched and driving fine again.
Quote from: MX793 on July 21, 2016, 11:27:41 AM
Priority, man. Thumping bass trumps having a spare [says the guy whose car doesn't come with a spare]
I also have a subwoofer and no spare.
No strike either, sorry Raza
I curry my spare errerywhere.
If I'm on a long trip i even throw in the X lug wrench
Quote from: Rich on July 21, 2016, 02:11:17 PM
I curry my spare errerywhere.
If I'm on a long trip i even throw in the X lug wrench
LOL
i carry a full size spare, tire patch kit, jack, and wrench, plus two tow straps, a full wrench set up to 1 inch/22 mm ( both sockets and wrenches), channel locks, two crescents, a half dozen screwdrivers, various pliers, a three pound sledge, pry bars, voltage tester and spare fuses, a model specific OBD-1 tester, spare hoses and belts, clamps, tie raps, duct tape and this super nasty carbon fiber tape kit that dries hard as a rock.
I have had a few tire blowouts and a couple roadside repair sessions; but not in this car yet.
I carry a cell phone and a couple hundred in cash. And a flashlight and a knife. And a trunk monkey (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8oPVVGYQ40).
Quote from: Raza on July 21, 2016, 02:40:41 PM
I carry a cell phone and a couple hundred in cash. And a flashlight and a knife. And a trunk monkey (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8oPVVGYQ40).
No shovel?
I'm probably more likely to call a tow truck these days, but I still curry a tool kit and such.
Not for a flat though, calling a tow truck for a flat is lame.
Quote from: MrH on July 21, 2016, 02:05:16 PM
I've had a slow leak once in my 13 years of driving. Take the spare out, and get a nail within a couple of weeks. Figures.
Anyways, took it to Midas down the street. $20 later, and it's patched and driving fine again.
Heh - I also got a leaky tire within 6 months of getting mine. Weird.
Mine was two nails though, which they apparently can't patch if they're too close together, so I had to get new rear tires.
I've only ever had one flat while driving. Luckily, my tires were basically brand new, so they just replaced the one instead of multiples (on the AWD Audi). Sucked to fork over $160 or whatever a month after spending 160x4, but I couldn't really complain.
Quote from: giant_mtb on July 22, 2016, 01:21:21 AM
I've only ever had one flat while driving. Luckily, my tires were basically brand new, so they just replaced the one instead of multiples (on the AWD Audi). Sucked to fork over $160 or whatever a month after spending 160x4, but I couldn't really complain.
The Z4 has been flat city over here. I think I've replaced all four for flats in the last two years. One definitely looks like someone slashed it though.
I had a blowout on the Passat that took the rim with it, though.
No flats here
knocks on wood
Quote from: Rupert on July 21, 2016, 06:31:25 PM
Not for a flat though, calling a tow truck for a flat is lame.
LOL I was driving van full of family about 15miles from home WOOSH the rear tire just went flat flat flat.
I pull off and get the jack out and get the kids out of the car and start to work and
COULD. NOT! get the lugnuts off!!
I usually rotate myself but I think we'd gotten new tires recently or something. They wouldn't budge. Had to call, free from insurance co. Guy had a big cheater bar and broke them all free then helped change it too.
Was seriously annoying, I was so mad at whoever had super-over-tightened them...
Valve stem had just disintegrated, easy fix.
I hustled through traffic last night in the S2000. Hit 95 mph :praise:
That's a big difference between the S2000 and Miata. The S2000 doesn't really feel like you're booking it until 90+. The miata felt like you were flying at 65 mph.
Quote from: MrH on July 28, 2016, 03:22:05 PM
That's a big difference between the S2000 and Miata. The S2000 doesn't really feel like you're booking it until 90+. The miata felt like you were flying at 65 mph.
Part of the attraction for me. :ohyeah: I drove on 45mph roads with a stoplight every 1-2miles when I had my Miata. Right pedal was on the floor a couple gears every time I had to stop and I wasn't busting any speed limits.
That's one thing I didn't like about the S2K. In the motorcycle world we call that slingshot speed
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on July 23, 2016, 08:06:54 PM
LOL I was driving van full of family about 15miles from home WOOSH the rear tire just went flat flat flat.
I pull off and get the jack out and get the kids out of the car and start to work and COULD. NOT! get the lugnuts off!!
I usually rotate myself but I think we'd gotten new tires recently or something. They wouldn't budge. Had to call, free from insurance co. Guy had a big cheater bar and broke them all free then helped change it too.
Was seriously annoying, I was so mad at whoever had super-over-tightened them...
Valve stem had just disintegrated, easy fix.
I one time had a lug on my car so tight that the stud sheared off when I broke out the cheater bar.
I haven't been commuting in it much lately. Just too hot and muggy outside to drive with the top down. I took it out last night to pick up dinner.
There's so many little nagging issues with the car that need to be fixed still. I'm getting tired of working on it. I might see if I can make a big push on Sunday to knock some things out. Here's what I still have left:
- Need to route the power cable under the center console and through an AC vent for my cell phone
- Rear speakers to be added
- Modify the striker plates for the top. There's a whole process of shimming them that needs to be happen to get rid of the awful whistling wind noise with the top up.
- Top latches need to be taken apart and some closed cell foam has to be added to stop them from rattling. I'm having a hard time sourcing the foam. To buy from the dealer you need to buy in a huge quantity and it's $50.
- Get rid of my searing hot metal shift knob and replace it with the leather one from the AP2s
- Need to track down the noise coming from the passenger airbag area. I think the dash subframe on the passenger side is loose. Just need to check to see how the substrate is attached to it
- Still getting a lot of squeaking and rattling coming from the convertible top shelf area. I need to get some BSR tape and maybe some dynomat to fix all of that.
- I'd like to put an AP2 center control in at some point. They're pretty expensive though.
- Coilovers need to go on. Either the current shocks are dead or the car rides from the factory like garbage. Can't tell which it is :lol:
Put a microfiber in your glove box to cover the shift knob when you're parked. Or a glove. Or perhaps a golf club cover. Unless you just want a new knob anyways.
I do want a new knob. Also, S2000s don't have glove boxes :lol:
Quote from: giant_mtb on August 11, 2016, 11:30:08 AM
Put a microfiber in your glove box to cover the shift knob when you're parked. Or a glove. Or perhaps a golf club cover. Unless you just want a new knob anyways.
More than once, I took my sock off and used that.
(Edit; yeah, I know. Context motherfuckers)
Apparently they switched to the hard top striker design across the board on later S2000s? And also made the latches like 1/3 bigger. I'm thinking about just saying screw it and buying new strikers and latches and seeing if that solves my problem. Fiddling with these old worn out ones are probably a lost cause.
I keep a microfiber cloth tucked under the seat
Quote from: MrH on August 11, 2016, 11:54:34 AM
I do want a new knob. Also, S2000s don't have glove boxes :lol:
It has that top storage thingy though.
This should be a really good gauge for what my car is worth now that I've fixed it up:
http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2002-honda-s2000-7/
Quote from: MrH on August 25, 2016, 12:35:57 PM
This should be a really good gauge for what my car is worth now that I've fixed it up:
http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2002-honda-s2000-7/
That's not a bad price. I mean, I still wouldn't buy an AP1, but that one is in good shape.
It's got 6 days left on the auction. It'll probably go for $17k or so.
Quote from: MrH on August 25, 2016, 02:02:43 PM
It's got 6 days left on the auction. It'll probably go for $17k or so.
I'd pay that....for a 2007.
Wow. That S2000 on bring a trailer only brought in $15k. I thought it'd go for $17k, but I think the fact that it was in Oklahoma hurt it a bit. But it's in better shape than mine, despite having more miles.
If that came in over $17k, I would have flipped mine for a profit :lol: Now that I know that's not a possibility, time to order a bunch of stuff for it.
Wow. ND Club Miatas w/ BBS package and a couple thousand miles continue to drop in value. Listing for <$25k now. KBB trade in on my car is $16k+.
If I could get a difference of less than $7k to upgrade to a car 15 years newer, 500 lbs lighter, a warranty, etc? That's tough.
Man, I knew you weren't going to keep this long.
:lol: Hard to turn being able to drive something for a year and flip for a profit.
I need to test drive an ND. Also wait until it's colder.
Quote from: MrH on September 22, 2016, 09:19:21 AM
Wow. ND Club Miatas w/ BBS package and a couple thousand miles continue to drop in value. Listing for <$25k now.
Good news.
Looking through autotrader it seems US used cars keep their value so damn well though. I wonder if you could find a dealer willing to match that 25k on a new one.
I highly doubt it. The one I've got my eye on:
- On the lot for 200+ days now
- 1000 miles on it
That's a really tough spot to be in. It's not a Mazda dealer either. If that was a Camry, it's easy to pitch it to a family to save a few grand. On a car that barely sells to begin with, optioned a certain way, nearing end of convertible season, it's tough to find the right buyer for it.
You have the rest, now buy the best.
I'd be in that ND in a heartbeat.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on September 22, 2016, 12:14:06 PM
You have the rest, now buy the best.
I'd be in that ND in a heartbeat.
can't tell if you're serious or just fucking with me :lol:
Quote from: MrH on September 22, 2016, 09:19:21 AM
Wow. ND Club Miatas w/ BBS package and a couple thousand miles continue to drop in value. Listing for <$25k now. KBB trade in on my car is $16k+.
If I could get a difference of less than $7k to upgrade to a car 15 years newer, 500 lbs lighter, a warranty, etc? That's tough.
Yours is an early AP1, right? I'd consider the swap. But to an AP2 rather than an ND.
Quote from: MrH on September 22, 2016, 09:19:21 AM
Wow. ND Club Miatas w/ BBS package and a couple thousand miles continue to drop in value. Listing for <$25k now. KBB trade in on my car is $16k+.
If I could get a difference of less than $7k to upgrade to a car 15 years newer, 500 lbs lighter, a warranty, etc? That's tough.
LOL You da car flipper king!
You won't find another car like your s2000. I lust after Miatas though so I'd go for the Miata.
When you trade it in in 6-12months will it hold it's value as well as the s2000 would in that timeframe?
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on September 22, 2016, 12:52:40 PM
When you trade it in in 6-12months will it hold it's value as well as the s2000 would in that timeframe?
Almost definitely not.
The ND has pretty much closed the performance gap argument with regards to the S2K.
At this point, it's a much better car than an S2K, I think it's the logical choice to move up to.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on September 23, 2016, 08:30:35 AM
The ND has pretty much closed the performance gap argument with regards to the S2K.
At this point, it's a much better car than an S2K, I think it's the logical choice to move up to.
Is it that good?
15 years newer, less weight, and pretty similar speed, while getting much better gas mileage. It's a better package overall.
The local one finally sold after sitting for 200+ days on the lot. There are still some killer deals out there, but luckily they're all 300 miles away.
Every new car (Not SUV) thread you make ends up with you wanting to replace the car with a Miata! Find a Miata, buy it and quit messed around!!!! :stirspot:
Miata
Is
Always
The
Answer
Been enjoying the car since it's been so nice out. Commuting a couple days a week in it to work, and using it every weekend for running errands.
The list of things I need to work on grows longer. I'm waiting until it's cold enough out that I'm not tempted to drive it so much before digging in. A lot of this stuff I've been putting off, a lot I've just added:
- Rear speaker installation
- Coilovers + slight fender roll + wheels/tires
- Route car charger through the center console
- Take apart windshield surround to install new soft top strikers, fix a rattle, and route power cable for Waylens camera
- Take apart and fix soft top latch rattles
- New spark plugs
- Oil change
- Transmission oil change
- New timing chain tensioner
- New shift knob
- Dynomat both doors and maybe the trunk
- Clean the engine bay and all the nooks and crannies of the interior
Quote from: MrH on September 26, 2016, 07:44:14 AM
15 years newer, less weight, and pretty similar speed, while getting much better gas mileage. It's a better package overall.
The local one finally sold after sitting for 200+ days on the lot. There are still some killer deals out there, but luckily they're all 300 miles away.
15 years newer doesn't mean better though. There are a small handful of cars in the late 1990s and early 2000's that really got a drivers car almost perfected. S2000 is clearly in that group. The last 10-15 years has been about developing unneeded crap.
ND > S2k
Just accept it and move on, perhaps that is lesson number 2.
Roll credits.
You're the worst :lol:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161019/3630884617c34a631a2b8855b8c729fa.jpg)
Are those wheels 16"? How big are the ones from the BRZ that you're eventually going to put on?
H rolls on dubs bc he's ballin like that
Quote from: BimmerM3 on October 19, 2016, 05:32:18 PM
Are those wheels 16"? How big are the ones from the BRZ that you're eventually going to put on?
(http://www.vrimz.com/file/pic/gallery/5285.jpg)
Quote from: Cookie Monster on October 19, 2016, 05:47:22 PM
H rolls on dubs bc he's ballin like that
Quote from: CaminoRacer on October 19, 2016, 08:13:08 PM
(http://www.vrimz.com/file/pic/gallery/5285.jpg)
:lol:
Obviously I'm biased, but mine are 17s and I think they're the perfect size for the car.
Quote from: MrH on October 19, 2016, 05:10:01 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161019/3630884617c34a631a2b8855b8c729fa.jpg)
You're a little off on the parking spot.
Quote from: BimmerM3 on October 19, 2016, 05:32:18 PM
Are those wheels 16"? How big are the ones from the BRZ that you're eventually going to put on?
Yeah. 16x6.5" in the front, 16x7.5" in the rear. I'm putting 17x9" on.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on October 20, 2016, 07:14:06 AM
You're a little off on the parking spot.
This is the car bro corner. There are two spots the align with this corner. Usually the other corner spot is either a G37 coupe, or a pontiac solstice. There's a big square area that no one can park in, so we usually park partially in it to avoid door dings.
I love the AP1
Quote from: CaminoRacer on October 19, 2016, 08:13:08 PM
(http://www.vrimz.com/file/pic/gallery/5285.jpg)
can't tell if hella flush from here :hmm:
Any of you guys have experience with dynamat? Think I'm going to do the doors and trunk this weekend maybe. Didn't know if there are any tips and things to avoid?
Quote from: MrH on November 08, 2016, 07:29:13 AM
Any of you guys have experience with dynamat? Think I'm going to do the doors and trunk this weekend maybe. Didn't know if there are any tips and things to avoid?
I'd avoid dynomat, but if you want to put a bunch of ballast weight in your underpowered sports car then go for it.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on November 08, 2016, 07:46:08 AM
I'd avoid dynomat, but if you want to put a bunch of ballast weight in your underpowered sports car then go for it.
:lol: Don't you have an Exocet to go work on?
Quote from: MrH on November 08, 2016, 07:58:25 AM
:lol: Don't you have an Exocet to go work on?
Picking some steel up this afternoon. Was going to just start welding chunks on the frame to heavy her up.
There was a website, I seem to have lost the link, that talked about how to make a car quieter. IIRC, the basics were that you don't need much dynamat type stuff, just in the middle of panels to stop them from vibrating, and then foam, heavier is better, all over the place to keep sound from coming in from the outside. Of course, you have a convertible, so...
Yes, the middle is the best spot to reduce vibration, especially for lower (road rumble) frequencies, as you're essentially chopping up the vibrating piece into the smallest pieces you can (which has the greatest affect on the resonant frequency). Adding mass in a practical amount helps, but only so much, as far as thin/flat panels are concerned. Fiberglass is wonderful for transients and HF noises. A fun way to learn vibration damping is drums. Moon Gels (amazing!), foam, fiberglass, duct tape...you use it all to find the perfect sound.
Also, search for "mass loaded vinyl" over Dynamat. Dynamat is MLV, but they charge you out the ass for putting adhesive and a name on it.
Won't help the frame, though.
You can buy MLV at Home Depot for $10/roll or something like that.
IIRC, it smells like tar when it gets hot. It's a roofing material.
Quote from: Rupert on November 10, 2016, 01:23:00 AM
IIRC, it smells like tar when it gets hot. It's a roofing material.
I went to Menards looking for MLV once and the best the guy could come up with was window flashing tape... :lol:
But yeah, cheaper alternatives to Dynamat exist: https://amzn.com/B00G8I4D2Y
(http://i.imgur.com/zy4xFJJ.png)
Latest round of things for the S2000. A bunch of junk so I can do all the soft top noise TSBs (strikers, some foam and greases, etc), the updated shift knob (current one is that all metal, scorching hot or ice cold design), and transmission fluid change. Bought an extra 12 volt outlet too that I want to wire in to run my car charger and dash cam.
SIX flat screws??
I went all out on those flat screws :lol:
There's an S2000 for sale up by Akron. Same color as mine, but with the all red interior. God damn, I wish I waited around for one of those.
Quote from: MrH on November 16, 2016, 12:06:40 PM
There's an S2000 for sale up by Akron. Same color as mine, but with the all red interior. God damn, I wish I waited around for one of those.
When one buys what they want, it is wise to immediately stop shopping for that thing.
Quote from: giant_mtb on November 16, 2016, 02:24:23 PM
When one buys what they want, it is wise to immediately stop shopping for that thing.
Yep! All C6 filters have been deleted on all my car shopping sites!
I just browse car gurus for manual transmission, RWD cars to see where the market is on interesting things. Sadly, that one popped up :lol: I would love to find a red interior S2000 I could swap parts with.
If that was local, I'd totally go take a look and just see if I could snag seats and door panels maybe. Replacing my whole dash with a red one is took much work, but seats, door panels, and carpet isn't bad.
http://www.salvagebid.com/418375575-2002-honda-s2000/
I bought the updated leather/metal s2000 shift knob. Was hesitant to drop $130 on something so silly, but I really didn't like the all metal one my car had. Wow, a shocking difference. The shape is a bit different and more comfortable. Leather feels a lot better. And most importantly, it's way heavier. The whole shifting motion is much smoother. Worth the money.
Just flushed the transmission. Oil looked pretty bad, who knows if it's ever been changed. From a mileage perspective it's still well under the maintenance schedule, but from an age perspective it should have been changed long ago. Either way, came out dark, but I couldn't find any evidence of metal shavings. Went ahead and flushed it with almost an entire quart and it looked good.
Wow. What a difference. Each gear shift is soooo smooth now. It was all kind of crunchy before. Finally it feels better than my Miata or BRZ ever did. Sometime this weekend I'll be working on all of the soft top fixes. New strikers, hard wire the way lens camera, and lots of rattle solutions.
Quote from: MrH on November 16, 2016, 12:06:40 PM
There's an S2000 for sale up by Akron. Same color as mine, but with the all red interior. God damn, I wish I waited around for one of those.
No, the red interiors are awful.
I'm actually a little surprised you had trouble finding one. When I was shopping, they were the most common interior color, and the cheapest to boot (because they're hideous).
Love the brothel interior with the red dash. The red/black interior is highly sought after, the all red not so much. Still, not nearly as common as the all black.
Btw, came across this guy's S2000. Same color, wheels and tire size. I'll be a hair higher and a higher less camber, but it's pretty damn close.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5325/30786321026_b630783e1b_b.jpg)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5686/30522073870_fedc0a34dc_b.jpg)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5661/30786318326_ce5bf507bb_b.jpg)
That looks sick.
higher? are you a pussy
Yeah that's pretty high as is...
What're the miles at? I feel like Tacoma could use a tranny fluid change but she's at 145k and I dunno if it's been done before. Last time I did a fluid flush at high miles, the transmission tore itself apart a few thousand miles later.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on November 17, 2016, 10:49:40 PM
Yeah that's pretty high as is...
Quote from: giant_mtb on November 17, 2016, 10:35:42 PM
That looks sick.
Quote from: 68_427 on November 17, 2016, 10:41:45 PM
higher? are you a pussy
He's running -2.7 degrees in the rear too. Wasn't really wanting to go quite that much. I was thinking -1.5 to -2.0. Somewhere in that range.
Quote from: giant_mtb on November 17, 2016, 10:50:27 PM
What're the miles at? I feel like Tacoma could use a tranny fluid change but she's at 145k and I dunno if it's been done before. Last time I did a fluid flush at high miles, the transmission tore itself apart a few thousand miles later.
I went out to check to see how the tranny felt and get gas, and when I filled up I was at 40,969 (nice). The car is pushing 16 years old though.
I went through the spreadsheet I got from the previous owner. He changed the engine oil regularly, but man, I've got a lot of maintenance stuff I should probably do just from age alone. Still need to flush the radiator, new spark plugs, and another oil change. Diff fluid can probably wait until spring or summer. Probably going to replace the cam chain tensioner just to be safe.
Also cool, the blue seats from the Suzuka Blue S2000s. Blue/black interior would be different on a silver car.
Quote from: MrH on November 18, 2016, 07:19:28 AM
Also cool, the blue seats from the Suzuka Blue S2000s. Blue/black interior would be different on a silver car.
:nutty:
Those are worse than the red interiors! :lol:
(http://i532.photobucket.com/albums/ee327/equ117/suzukablue_zps6e1fe317.jpg)
I'd love to swap a tan interior into my car, but finding a donor would probably be difficult. IIRC, the tan was only made for a couple of years and were only sold with the white exterior.
:wub:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NnKhZth-8nM/UFZ1fHZQGTI/AAAAAAAAgyA/fpdNZAgPdhs/s800/IMG_1591.JPG)
Ugh! The tan is the worst color available. It's way too light. It would look in place in a Buick Lucerne maybe.
Here are the production numbers btw:
(http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=viewimage&img=657632)
Interesting Stats:
Total S2000's - 66,860
Total AP1's - 36,968
Total AP2's - 29,892
Total CR's (including those w/o a/c and audio) - 699
Total CR's without a/c and audio - 59
First S2000 - MY00 serial #27
Last S2000 - MY09 serial #357
Last S2000 from Tochigi - MY04 serial #6062 (11th digit of VIN = "T")
First S2000 from Suzuka - MY04 serial #1 (11th digit of VIN = "S")
Most common color - Silverstone (18,814)
Least common color - Apex Blue (200)
Most common color combination - Silverstone / Black (13,261)
Least common color combination - Grand Prix White / Yellow/Black (90)
Black Interiors - 47208
Blue Interiors - 6148
Red Interiors - 6986
Red/Black Interiors - 3896
Tan Interiors - 1923
Yellow/Black Interiors - 699
Less than 7,000 all red interiors. Over 47,000 black interiors. Oddly enough, a totaled red interior S2000 popped up on craigslist. He wants to part the entire interior. If it's $500 or so, I might do it.
Quote from: MrH on November 18, 2016, 08:05:07 AM
Ugh! The tan is the worst color available. It's way too light. It would look in place in a Buick Lucerne maybe.
lol, it's funny that we seem to have completely opposite opinions on this. Especially on my black car, the tan interior would provide some nice contrast on the black exterior. The black on black is a too Darth Vader for me.
I would prefer the tan to be a bit darker though.
Quote from: MrH on November 18, 2016, 08:05:07 AM
Less than 7,000 all red interiors. Over 47,000 black interiors.
Oh, yeah, I didn't mean to imply that they were actually more common, but the good condition, yet reasonably priced, examples all seemed to have either the red or blue interior, which was a 100% deal breaker for me.
Quote from: MrH on November 18, 2016, 08:05:07 AM
Oddly enough, a totaled red interior S2000 popped up on craigslist. He wants to part the entire interior. If it's $500 or so, I might do it.
Best of luck if you pursue it, but I doubt it. The seats alone are probably worth more than $500.
How much does it cost to just reupholster seats? I wouldn't have expected that to be too expensive, but maybe there is something unusual about car seats. :huh:
Quote from: SJ_GTI on November 18, 2016, 08:29:31 AM
How much does it cost to just reupholster seats? I wouldn't have expected that to be too expensive, but maybe there is something unusual about car seats. :huh:
About $800/per when I looked into it 20 years ago.
Ripped apart the windshield trim last night. I swapped out the strikers that the soft top latches grab on to. These are the updated hardtop design, and should pull the roof on tighter and kill all the wind noise I was getting from the top not sealing to the frame.
Also took off the latches themselves to stuff them with some foam to try and kill the rattles. I'm actually following the TSB from Honda on how to stop the rattles, but it seems a whole lot like some hillbilly engineering.
Since I had the windshield frame all apart, I went ahead and ran all the wiring for my camera (www.waylens.com).
Next steps are to add a 12 volt outlet near the passenger knee area and route a charging cable for my phone through. I'll start having OBDII data-ified videos of the S2000 if it's warm enough outside.
Quote from: SJ_GTI on November 18, 2016, 08:29:31 AM
How much does it cost to just reupholster seats? I wouldn't have expected that to be too expensive, but maybe there is something unusual about car seats. :huh:
My brother had just the center bottom and center lumbar sections of the driver's seat redone in his Boxster, and just that was $280.
Upholstery work is pretty pricey AFAIK, especially for something with contours like a car seat.
http://urgedesigns.com/
NA power upgrades on these things are super pricey. We're talking about an engine that only Ferrari could top in terms of HP/liter. It's pretty high strung from the factory.
Quote from: MrH on November 23, 2016, 08:15:40 AM
NA power upgrades on these things are super pricey. We're talking about an engine that only Ferrari could top in terms of HP/liter. It's pretty high strung from the factory.
Yes yes, it's just sooo amazing. Praise honda.
Quote from: FlatBlackCaddy on November 23, 2016, 08:28:41 AM
Yes yes, it's just sooo amazing. Praise honda.
You need some peanut butter to go with all that jelly, bra? :lol:
Quote from: MrH on November 23, 2016, 08:15:40 AM
NA power upgrades on these things are super pricey. We're talking about an engine that only Ferrari could top in terms of HP/liter. It's pretty high strung from the factory.
Have you looked into any ECU upgrades that change the VTEC changeover point? Guy I autocross with did something to his ECU that not only moves the changeover point to a lower RPM, it makes it throttle position sensitive, so it will change to the hot cam sooner if he's hard on the throttle, but hold the mild cam longer at lighter throttle loads. At least that's how he explained it to me. Seems like a pretty nice setup.
Quote from: MrH on November 23, 2016, 08:15:40 AM
NA power upgrades on these things are super pricey. We're talking about an engine that only Ferrari could top in terms of HP/liter. It's pretty high strung from the factory.
And IME, iffy
Quote from: MX793 on November 23, 2016, 08:46:29 AM
Have you looked into any ECU upgrades that change the VTEC changeover point? Guy I autocross with did something to his ECU that not only moves the changeover point to a lower RPM, it makes it throttle position sensitive, so it will change to the hot cam sooner if he's hard on the throttle, but hold the mild cam longer at lighter throttle loads. At least that's how he explained it to me. Seems like a pretty nice setup.
Was it a Hondata reflash? Has to be 2006 model year and up to reflash. If you want to do that to my AP1, you have to basically adapt an RSX ECU to it, and then you can reflash. That requires replacing cam and crank sensors. It's not as simple as an ECU swap for the older S2000s unfortunately.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on November 23, 2016, 08:55:30 AM
And IME, iffy
Yeah, not a good sign when this high end S2000 part place that Cale linked to says: "...Honda made the best OEM header on the planet, Ferrari & Porsche included. Header swaps on another car typically make 10-20HP per bank of cylinders. Not one aftermarket S2000 header has made more than 5-10HP throughout the entire RPM range till now."
They then proceed to post dynos with gains that are well within the margin of error for a chassis dyno :lol:
Patrick Bedard (the C/D writer) tried to win the world land speed record in one (for NA 2 liter cars in production form at least). Headwork, cam and header changes were all allowed and he did all of them in several different attempts. None of them got over like 280 HP, and that was running on race gas.
So yeah, I'd stick with shocks and springs and maybe a couple other things like some of the chassis bracing arrangements you can buy, there seems to be a decent improvement possible there (which is of course far more subjective): but other than supercharging the damn thing, leave the motor as is.
Yeah, that's the plan. Pretty much just working on maintenance and preventive things (timing chain tensioner will happen this winter). Coilovers, wheels and tires too. Outside of that, it's just interior comfort stuff. Sound system and convenience things. I might see if I can get a cheap homelink transmitter from eBay and build it into the car somewhere. I'd like to get an AP2 center console as well.
Exhaust is plenty loud stock and sounds good.
Quit being a bitch and do the TSX bottom end swap. Get your F24 on. :partyon:
Quote from: Soup DeVille on November 23, 2016, 09:34:47 AM
Patrick Bedard (the C/D writer) tried to win the world land speed record in one (for NA 2 liter cars in production form at least). Headwork, cam and header changes were all allowed and he did all of them in several different attempts. None of them got over like 280 HP, and that was running on race gas.
He didn't bore it out?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on November 23, 2016, 12:20:37 PM
He didn't bore it out?
It was specifically for a class with a 2 liter max. That would be a lot of work for 3 CCs.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on November 23, 2016, 12:16:14 PM
Quit being a bitch and do the TSX bottom end swap. Get your F24 on. :partyon:
This is a thing?
Quote from: MrH on November 23, 2016, 12:26:46 PM
This is a thing?
Yep, bore on the K24 is the same as the F20 so you just put the TSX crank and rods in and get a stroker F24. There's a shop here with an F24 S2k.
Wouldn't that increase piston speeds? Seems like a TSX rod wouldn't be able to handle S2000 speeds/forces let alone a stroker S2000 speed/force
Found the thread on S2ki of the first guy doing it. Seems a lot of things aren't optimal, but apparently it runs fine and makes 260 whp. Seems like a lot of work for not a ton of gain.
Honestly, I don't need anymore power. The car is plenty fast and exciting as is. My issues with the car are mostly just annoying things that need fixed, not the powertrain. I'd rather get rid of the clutch buzz and the unsettled ride than make more power.
Yeah, I can't really see myself doing a crankshaft swap for less than 100 HP on anything.
Got a new license plate for the S2000. Was thinking about moving over the LOWD plate to the S2000 and getting something different for the 4Runner, but the yearly cost of customized plates is pretty high.
Instead, just got my Alma Mater logo and a random string of letters and numbers :praise:
Fixed the whistling top issue finally. The new strikers did it.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161129/48b0d7e15987de4109e185511751de5a.jpg)
Rear speaker install has been a much bigger pain in the ass than expected. Chopping up interior panels, and now I've finally got that taken care of on the driver side. The issue is a small stamped piece of metal blocks where the speaker goes. Most people just hammer it to bend up a little to make room. I need to take the seat out to have enough space to have a go at it. I feel like this is my tenth time ripping the interior apart.
Hopefully I can finally finish it this Christmas break.
Here's the current dilemma:
My RPF1s don't fit (thanks Cale for pointing out that BRZs have 5x100 bolt pattern instead of what I assumed was 5x114.3 :cry:), so I need new wheels and tires for it. In addition, I have quite a bit of maintenance to do to it. Also, coilovers are still in the garage.
ND Miata prices are tanking right now bad. There are two used ND Club trim level with BBS and brembo package. Both are listed at $24.9k, but can probably negotiate them down slightly. New ones are probably an extra $2k-$3k over these used ones.
If I keep S2000:
- Buy new wheels & tires: -$1700
- Alignment: -$150
- Sell current RPF1s: +$750
- Misc maintenance stuff: -$500
Nets to around $1600 I have to spend, plus some time in the garage getting it all done before convertible season hits again
ND Price: -$23.5k
Trade in: +$15k
Tax: -$595
Sell coilovers: +$600
Sell RPF1s: $+750
Net: -$7745
So I'm talking about a difference of just over $6k to upgrade to a car that's 16 years newer. I'm noticing things like weather stripping, bushings, etc are all aging on the S2000. I'm going to continue to have small, nagging things associated with just having an older car in the S2000 come up. It's just a matter of do I want to deal with that or not.
Slight savings on gas and insurance with an ND miata too. I love the powertrain in the S2000, but it's frankly a scary car at the limit. I guess I should drive and ND and see how I actually like it. I may hate it for all I know.
You'll have years to get an ND when they're on the used market. Not so easy to find a nice S2K.
Do you Autocross?
No, not really. I might dabble a little in the future, but no serious plans for it.
No LSD, but wow. The depreciation is brutal right now. That was like a $32k MSRP.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-2016-Mazda-MX-5-Miata-c24783#listing=160327649
And actually, here's a better deal. Brand new, been on the lot almost a full year. Better color and actually a club trim level like I prefer. $24k flat might be possible here.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used-2016-Mazda-MX-5-Miata-c24783#listing=139957283
I would normally say "Never sell the S2000", but you have an early AP1, and I'm a little worried that the MX-5 isn't selling well and it may be the death of it. So I say buy a new one.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=19123&modelCode1=S2000&referrer=%2Fcars-for-sale%2Fsearchresults.xhtml%3Fzip%3D19123%26showcaseOwnerId%3D1391103%26startYear%3D2005%26endYear%3D2017%26modelCodeList%3DS2000%26transmissionCode%3DMAN%26makeCodeList%3DHONDA%26transmissionCodes%3DMAN%26modelCode1%3DS2000%26mmt%3D%255BHONDA%255BS2000%255B%255D%255D%255B%255D%255D%26makeCode1%3DHONDA%26firstRecord%3D0%26searchRadius%3D0&showcaseOwnerId=1391103&startYear=2005&numRecords=25&makeCode1=HONDA&firstRecord=0&endYear=2017&searchRadius=0&listingId=444909943&makeCode1=HONDA&modelCode1=S2000
That's getting pretty reasonable, actually.
Quote from: Raza on January 18, 2017, 12:30:31 AM
I would normally say "Never sell the S2000", but you have an early AP1, and I'm a little worried that the MX-5 isn't selling well and it may be the death of it. So I say buy a new one.
Miata fanbois would shit thier pants.........
Quote from: Cookie Monster on January 17, 2017, 11:52:06 AM
You'll have years to get an ND when they're on the used market. Not so easy to find a nice S2K.
He already had it though, and is already getting bored with it/looking at the next thing. Plus as great as the S2K is, there's nothing like a Miata. For me personally I really hated how gutless the AP1 was on the small cam... I feel like the SKYACTIV 2.0 would feel like a V8 in the lil Miata by comparison, especially with bolt ons.
I would probably hold off for another year though and let the depreciation get even worse. They'll still be basically new but even further down the steep depreciation curve. In the meantime stop putting any non-maintenance $$$ into the S2K... I bet the AP1 will appreciate over the same period.
You keep saying how gutless the S2K is. I don't see how it's bad at all. Then again I think my rotary car is decently fast too.
Yeah, I don't think the S2000 is gutless at all really. It's geared so short, staying in VTEC isn't difficult to do.
Drove it to work today actually. If I can fix the plethora of NVH issues and pogo stick ride in the rear, I'll be a lot happier with the car.
Finally got the first rear speaker installed. Huge pain in the ass. Had to cut a 7" circle in a rear panel. I already pre-wired for these. Took me probably a half hour to figure out why my head unit was only playing bass through the rear rca cables.
But man. What a difference. I can actually listen to podcasts with the top down. Totally masks most of the NVH issues too. Just need to install the other side, then adjust the balance and crossover points, and I'll finally be done with the sound system.
Definitely going to keep this thing. Coilovers will go on in the next few weeks, then eventually wheels and tires and I'll be done with the major mods. Then it's just maintenance shit
lol yes, if you get annoyed by rattles it just means your radio isn't loud enough
Quote from: MrH on January 20, 2017, 07:33:01 AM
Yeah, I don't think the S2000 is gutless at all really. It's geared so short, staying in VTEC isn't difficult to do.
Drove it to work today actually. If I can fix the plethora of NVH issues and pogo stick ride in the rear, I'll be a lot happier with the car.
It's not a Corvette, sure. But it's nice to have to work a little for power, get into a rhythm. It's not always the best, but it can be very rewarding.
How's that power top running? No issues?
Quote from: Rich on February 07, 2017, 06:17:10 AM
How's that power top running? No issues?
Surprisingly well, considering I had to balance it on my head while I sat on the transmission tunnel to bolt the frame and motors in :lol:
The actual top is great. I bought a cloth one with glass window to replace the stock vinyl with plastic rear window. The shop I used did a great job installing it.
Had a ton of NVH issues though. Rattles from the latch system and wind noise along the top of the windshield. I did the TSB to jam foam into the latches to stop the rattles, and replaced the latch strikers and that fixed the wind noise finally.
This thing has had a ton of nagging issues, but it's finally all coming together.
This thread makes me feel better about the fact that I paid more for a newer one. :lol:
Quote from: BimmerM3 on February 07, 2017, 07:51:32 AM
This thread makes me feel better about the fact that I paid more for a newer one. :lol:
:lol: :lol: :lol:
Quote from: BimmerM3 on February 07, 2017, 07:51:32 AM
This thread makes me feel better about the fact that I paid more for a newer one. :lol:
Yes. A 16 year old Honda is still a 16 year old car :lol:
The only thing that really dates this car IMO are the headlights and taillights. I think the AP2 headlights and taillights look so much newer. Unfortunately, retrofit for those is brutal.
I actually kind of like these...:mask:
http://www.evo-r.net/product/S2000/LED_Tail_Lamps/index.htm
So it's nice out, been driving the S2000 a lot.
Man, the inputs for this car are great. Steering is super quick with very little to no "dead zone", mechanical throttle cable, shifter feel. All are really, really good.
I'm glad someone else enjoys a throttle cable.
Mags just gloss over it now but every new car I drive seems off
It's the lift off lag that drives me nuts. I hate electronic throttles that lag for a second.
IIRC, rev hang after lifting is not inherent of TBW, but an emissions control "feature". There's no technical reason TBW should be slower to react to throttle lift than throttle application other than someone programming it to behave that way. Definitely noticeable with MT-equipped cars and varies from mildly annoying to infuriating depending on the car. I drove a mk1 Focus that was so bad you could count to 3 between when you lifted and when the revs dropped. Said car also had a lit CEL, so I suspect that was related.
Quote from: MX793 on April 14, 2017, 09:38:51 AM
IIRC, rev hang after lifting is not inherent of TBW, but an emissions control "feature". There's no technical reason TBW should be slower to react to throttle lift than throttle application other than someone programming it to behave that way. Definitely noticeable with MT-equipped cars and varies from mildly annoying to infuriating depending on the car. I drove a mk1 Focus that was so bad you could count to 3 between when you lifted and when the revs dropped. Said car also had a lit CEL, so I suspect that was related.
I thought the MK1 Focus was a cable throttle? I'm pretty sure mine was.
The Yaris' TBW was the worst.
Quote from: 2o6 on April 14, 2017, 09:55:36 AM
I thought the MK1 Focus was a cable throttle? I'm pretty sure mine was.
The Yaris' TBW was the worst.
Probably varies by engine. The Duratec motors were TBW. Not sure about the Zetec. The base SOHC motor was probably by cable seeing as that motor family was about 20 years old.
Quote from: Rich on April 14, 2017, 09:07:12 AM
I'm glad someone else enjoys a throttle cable.
Mags just gloss over it now but every new car I drive seems off
Really? All my cars are TBW and in the N/A ones throttle response is instantaneous. Both on and off.
My RX8 has TBW and you can't tell that it's not a cable... It's really all down to how TBW is implemented and what "features" are programmed in
Quote from: MrH on January 20, 2017, 07:33:01 AM
Yeah, I don't think the S2000 is gutless at all really. It's geared so short, staying in VTEC isn't difficult to do.
Drove it to work today actually. If I can fix the plethora of NVH issues and pogo stick ride in the rear, I'll be a lot happier with the car.
A lot of people don't like engines that need high revs to make power. Not me. I love the linearity.
That car you got is a long term keeper IMO. It's a shame it was never sold here.
One thing that really gets me when I switch between the Jeep and the Mazda is turn-in... When I first go to the Mazda I find myself turning into turns wayyyy to soon because my head got use to adjusting to the Jeep steering wheel being turned and nothing happening for a few moments
My car doesn't have any rev hang issues, but when I first got it it had a really bad tip in lag that took forever get used to. I got that tuned out though so it feels really good now, but I do prefer cables over TBW.
Z and Civic are DBW, no response issues in either. Definitely down to programming. Mechanical throttles have issues too... dealing with shit on my bike right now (stretched cables + broken adjuster) and I remember having to fiddle with the idle set screw on my first Accord. Ultimately though inputs definitely matter... glad everything on the S is right.
Quote from: MX793 on April 14, 2017, 10:08:33 AM
Probably varies by engine. The Duratec motors were TBW. Not sure about the Zetec. The base SOHC motor was probably by cable seeing as that motor family was about 20 years old.
Ok, so it was a gen 1.25.
Yeah mine was a Zetec and pretty sure it was cable throttle.
The Sonic is TBW, and it's also a turbo and an economy car with tall gearing. Throttle response is not it's strong suit, but it's fine in traffic and driving spirited.
The Yaris was TBW and it was literally made the car borderline undrivable.
Quote from: MX793 on April 14, 2017, 09:38:51 AM
IIRC, rev hang after lifting is not inherent of TBW, but an emissions control "feature". There's no technical reason TBW should be slower to react to throttle lift than throttle application other than someone programming it to behave that way. Definitely noticeable with MT-equipped cars and varies from mildly annoying to infuriating depending on the car. I drove a mk1 Focus that was so bad you could count to 3 between when you lifted and when the revs dropped. Said car also had a lit CEL, so I suspect that was related.
How can you even drive a manual on a car that does that? Slowly, I suppose.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on April 14, 2017, 11:07:07 AM
How can you even drive a manual on a car that does that? Slowly, I suppose.
Well, dump the clutch and the revs will drop pretty quick. :lol:
Quote from: MX793 on April 14, 2017, 09:38:51 AM
IIRC, rev hang after lifting is not inherent of TBW, but an emissions control "feature". There's no technical reason TBW should be slower to react to throttle lift than throttle application other than someone programming it to behave that way. Definitely noticeable with MT-equipped cars and varies from mildly annoying to infuriating depending on the car. I drove a mk1 Focus that was so bad you could count to 3 between when you lifted and when the revs dropped. Said car also had a lit CEL, so I suspect that was related.
Yeah, I know it's programmed in for emission reasons. It just sucks. The NC Miata hung on every shift. I would naturally shift faster than the engine dropped in revs. So either I'd have to slow down and wait for it to get to the proper RPM before letting the clutch back out, or if I was really getting on it, the release of the clutch would force the engine to slow down. Not ideal.
Quote from: MrH on April 14, 2017, 11:11:13 AM
Yeah, I know it's programmed in for emission reasons. It just sucks. The NC Miata hung on every shift. I would naturally shift faster than the engine dropped in revs. So either I'd have to slow down and wait for it to get to the proper RPM before letting the clutch back out, or if I was really getting on it, the release of the clutch would force the engine to slow down. Not ideal.
Huh. I never had a rev hang problem with my NC.
Quote from: Cookie Monster on April 14, 2017, 11:19:43 AM
Huh. I never had a rev hang problem with my NC.
When was the last time your NC had a stock ECU map on it :lol:
There's a product out there that's made to handle the hang issue. Forget what it's called though.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on April 14, 2017, 11:07:07 AM
How can you even drive a manual on a car that does that? Slowly, I suppose.
It was not a smooth drive.
Quote from: MrH on April 14, 2017, 11:26:37 AM
When was the last time your NC had a stock ECU map on it :lol:
There's a product out there that's made to handle the hang issue. Forget what it's called though.
Uh, like 4 years ago? :lol:
I got an Ecutek tune on it and that improved the throttle response a ton.
I imagine my A4 was TBW...I never had an issue with it or felt like it wasn't normal-feeling. It was plenty smooth and responsive.
2.0T is a good motor. MKV GTI I drove felt and sounded naturally aspirated from what I remember.
If I had no music on and listened for it, I could hear the turbo with the windows closed, but barely. Sunroof open was the best way to hear it and cruise. But yeah, they're very normal sounding. Loved that car, that motor that transmission.
Feeling wise...nah, it definitely drove like a turbo. Miss that bOOOOst.
The extra terra is TBW, and it's pretty slow to respond to inputs. Transmission likes to shift to a higher gear than I want it to, as well. It's not quite what I was hoping for after having driven a bunch of automatics designed since they designed the one I have, but it gets the job done and it has plenty of power and good gearing.
SVX has two throttle cables
The Kizashi has a very slight throttle delay & hang but I've learned to compensate for it. My foot comes off the throttle just a half sec before I depress the clutch to shift so there's no hang or jerkiness.
Quote from: 68_427 on April 16, 2017, 04:30:22 PM
SVX has two throttle cables
see that's your ticket to weight reduction right there.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on April 19, 2017, 04:51:40 AM
see that's your ticket to weight reduction right there.
So remove light weight second cable, and make something to attach one cable to both throttle bodies.
Nah. I already ditched the A/C and put in a smaller radiator lol
Quote from: 68_427 on April 16, 2017, 04:30:22 PM
SVX has two throttle cables
Stop dicking with that and get an E90. 325i's should be a dime a dozen, and are a cheap flash away from being 'respectable'
So I was thinking about getting another set of RPF1s for the S2000. But I came across these:
(https://www.tirerack.com/images/wheels/enkei_tuning/enkeitun_ts10_sg_pdpfull.jpg)
I love the look of them. Can't seem to find much info about using them on S2000s though. According to Enkei's site, they make them in the right sizes, but Tire Rack's frustrating site says they don't fit the S2000. I need to shoot them an email and see what they have in terms of sizes. I'm going to have to do a slight fender roll, but it should look good.
Ha those are what I almost bought for my car, and what I posted in Sporty's thread. They look great in the lower offset sizes with a bit of concavity to them.
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/12783353_1014302585315317_941936534_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTE5MjA3MDEyNzYzODUzMDYyNA%3D%3D.2.l)
Quote from: Char on April 21, 2017, 02:55:44 PM
Stop dicking with that and get an E90. 325i's should be a dime a dozen, and are a cheap flash away from being 'respectable'
That's cool
Quote from: 68_427 on April 25, 2017, 02:09:34 AM
Ha those are what I almost bought for my car, and what I posted in Sporty's thread. They look great in the lower offset sizes with a bit of concavity to them.
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/12783353_1014302585315317_941936534_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTE5MjA3MDEyNzYzODUzMDYyNA%3D%3D.2.l)
Why doesn't tire rack just show me the specs and prices and let me decide if they fit? They won't show anything until you put your vehicle in. I put in my car, and it just shows none available.
Quote from: MrH on April 25, 2017, 07:37:00 AM
Why doesn't tire rack just show me the specs and prices and let me decide if they fit? They won't show anything until you put your vehicle in. I put in my car, and it just shows none available.
Yeah it's completely useless for me. Only wheels it'll show are 15"
I like my set ( but in gun metal)... Works nicely on an S2000
(http://ssr-wheels.com/gallery/image.axd?picture=2014%2F8%2Fs2000_gtv02+04.jpg)
Oh, you've got TS10s on the RX-8? Size and weight?
Those are SSR GTV-02
Mine are 18x9.5". Weight was maybe 19lbs - really don't remember exactly
Ah, those are nice. Too big for my car though.
So I think I'm going to paint my calipers. They're really rusty and look like garbage. Do I go really subdued and just go with black, or do I go ricer red?
Black.
Save the red for Brembos
Quote from: MrH on April 28, 2017, 08:55:01 AM
Ah, those are nice. Too big for my car though.
So I think I'm going to paint my calipers. They're really rusty and look like garbage. Do I go really subdued and just go with black, or do I go ricer red?
Get em powder coated. Will cost like $200
I say red! YOLO!!! And all the guys on the Vette forums rave about this: https://www.g2usa.com/
G2 holds up really well. Duplicolor shit not so much
What about high temp rustoleum?
Quote from: MrH on April 28, 2017, 08:09:46 PM
What about high temp rustoleum?
When did you buy a Cavalier?
Whatever you use (I'd recommend nothing from the shelf at walmart), a good cleaning regimen will help immensely. Especially if you go red.
Quote from: giant_mtb on April 29, 2017, 02:30:25 AM
Whatever you use (I'd recommend nothing from the shelf at walmart), a good cleaning regimen will help immensely. Especially if you go red.
Yup! I think I'm going to order that a G2 kit (cheaper on Ebay) for the GS. Stay tuned........
Quote from: MrH on April 28, 2017, 08:09:46 PM
What about high temp rustoleum?
Go G2... You will thank yourself in a year
Quote from: Soup DeVille on April 28, 2017, 09:21:47 PM
When did you buy a Cavalier?
:lol:
Alright. Damn. Guess I'll get the G2 kit.
Just a matter of red or black.
Quote from: MrH on April 29, 2017, 10:05:13 AM
:lol:
Alright. Damn. Guess I'll get the G2 kit.
Just a matter of red or black.
I just ordered one in red.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391197983727?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Get a hardtop.
I could have bought a hardtop with the car. No thanks.
So the Enkei TS10 wheels are out. For 17"x9", they are flat face, not concave, and look like trash.
I think I'm going to go with 949 Racing 6ULs instead. A conventional Miata wheel that they're making in S2000 sizes now :rockon: I could run 17x9 or 17x10 and make them fit. Probably going to get them in the Beryllium color.
Also: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2004-honda-s2000-9/
:wtf: Mine isn't nearly in the same kind of condition, but that's crazy.
Don't use any harsh wheel sprays with the 949s. Just soapy water
Too bad you don't live close by. We could have test fit my x10 6uls.
Quote from: MrH on May 09, 2017, 07:46:12 AM
Also: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/2004-honda-s2000-9/
:wtf: Mine isn't nearly in the same kind of condition, but that's crazy.
That color combo is amazing. Good to see; my dad's 2004 has 45k on it without the front lip or anything like that. He got it for like 16.5 or something
Quote from: Cookie Monster on May 09, 2017, 09:06:50 AM
Too bad you don't live close by. We could have test fit my x10 6uls.
You've got 10" 6ULs? What color and offset?
Quote from: CALL_911 on May 09, 2017, 10:13:44 AM
That color combo is amazing. Good to see; my dad's 2004 has 45k on it without the front lip or anything like that. He got it for like 16.5 or something
That was a steal. I spent just under $15k for mine and thought mine was a decent deal.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13439179_10154249754489035_9222137774218111867_n.jpg?oh=8051229b96be22bd7e0cbd893b3de717&oe=59B14B9F)
So I was torn between keeping the S2000 or trading it in and getting a 2016 Miata. I test drove one and really liked it. There were a few 2016s locally, but not exactly what I wanted in terms of color and options. Also, they never quite bottomed out in price like I had hoped. $5k off was pretty much what I could expect. The delta to trade in the S2000 and get one of these ended up being $10k. Just not worth it.
Throw in the transmission and soft top issues the 2016 miatas have, along with the HCCI engine mazda is coming out with and total lack of color choice, it's a no brainer. Keeping the S2000 at least a few more years. If the ND miata gets a facelift, the new HCCI engine, and Winning Blue as a color choice, I'll be the first in line.
With that in mind, it was time to get back to work on the S2000. Finished the audio system install and balanced everything out. Sounds pretty damn good if I say so myself. It could use some tweeters higher up in the cabin, but this works well enough. Next is finally installing the coilovers.
I've decided on wheels too. 949 Racing 6ULs. Question: Do I go with Titanium or Beryllium for the color?
Beryllium
Coolant Fluid Change- $125.00
Valve Adjustment - $325.00
Sythetic Blend oil change- $53.00
Paying the dealer to do those. I'm doing the timing chain tensioner replacement, new spark plugs, and rolling the fenders. TurnIn Concepts is doing coilover install and alignment.
Quote from: MrH on October 03, 2018, 09:45:45 AM
Coolant Fluid Change- $125.00
Valve Adjustment - $325.00
Sythetic Blend oil change- $53.00
Paying the dealer to do those. I'm doing the timing chain tensioner replacement, new spark plugs, and rolling the fenders. TurnIn Concepts is doing coilover install and alignment.
:pullover: WTF are you doing to your S2000?
(https://i.warosu.org/data/ck/img/0056/54/1406933941406.jpg)
Quote from: MrH on October 03, 2018, 09:45:45 AM
Coolant Fluid Change- $125.00
Valve Adjustment - $325.00
Sythetic Blend oil change- $53.00
Paying the dealer to do those. I'm doing the timing chain tensioner replacement, new spark plugs, and rolling the fenders. TurnIn Concepts is doing coilover install and alignment.
A well kept stock S2000 will only appreciate in value. Customizing it will likely devalue it.
Replacing coilovers with stock suspension is a 2hr job for TIC if he ever wants to sell it.
Quote from: 68_427 on October 03, 2018, 10:16:16 AM
Replacing coilovers with stock suspension is a 2hr job for TIC if he ever wants to sell it.
What about unrolling the fenders?
Quote from: Rockraven on October 03, 2018, 10:30:31 AM
What about unrolling the fenders?
Why? It's completely unnoticeable.
Quote from: 68_427 on October 03, 2018, 10:16:16 AM
Replacing coilovers with stock suspension is a 2hr job for TIC if he ever wants to sell it.
Replacing the fenders and undoing he damage to the quarter panels is not.
Fuckin why
Also, I thought you still needed to do a clutch?
Why are you guys so anti-mods... well chosen mods always improve cars
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 03, 2018, 11:04:19 AM
Why are you guys so anti-mods... well chosen mods always improve cars
I kind of agree. It doesn't sound like he is doing thing strange or tacky. If I had the aptitude (on the sound system) I would probably do the same type of stuff.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 03, 2018, 11:04:19 AM
Why are you guys so anti-mods... well chosen mods always improve cars
Not anti-mod, but it depends on the car. The S2000 is a true classic; and almost perfect as is.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 03, 2018, 11:04:19 AM
Why are you guys so anti-mods... well chosen mods always improve cars
Always?
If you're planning on getting rid of it in a few years, I wouldn't bother modding the car. A car like the S2000 will always be worth more on the used market if its as close to stock as possible, and if the intent is to pitch it in the near future, throwing money at it now seems like a waste.
Quote from: Rockraven on October 03, 2018, 11:44:09 AM
Always?
Yes, read the "well chosen" immediately before that
MrH worked for a top suspension company; I doubt he is going to pick some $300 Ebay trash.
Quote from: Xer0 on October 03, 2018, 11:46:10 AM
If you're planning on getting rid of it in a few years, I wouldn't bother modding the car. A car like the S2000 will always be worth more on the used market if its as close to stock as possible, and if the intent is to pitch it in the near future, throwing money at it now seems like a waste.
I dont follow
He's keeping the car for a few years and will be driving it that whole time
Mods hes choosing will make it more enjoyable to drive over that time and can be removed when it's time to sell
So why can't he put the mods on, drive the car, take the mods off and sell it as stock? :confused:
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 03, 2018, 11:54:49 AM
I dont follow
He's keeping the car for a few years and will be driving it that whole time
Mods hes choosing will make it more enjoyable to drive over that time and can be removed when it's time to sell
So why can't he put the mods on, drive the car, take the mods off and sell it as stock? :confused:
What don't you follow about if you don't plan to keep something long term, don't put money into it? Or a car like the S2000 is worth more the closer to stock it is? It sounds like you're desperately trying to justify your past mod choices with MrH here. This is my advice to him, not sure why are you are taking it so personally.
Also, a car like the S2000 doesn't just revert back to "stock". People buying these cars know what to look for and know exactly what the most common mods will do to it and what to watch out for with a car reverted back to stock. This isn't your average Civic that no one will care about.
The rolled fenders would be a dead giveaway there, but the suspension- as long as the rears don't require remote reservoirs (which means holes in the trunk pan), won't be hard to put back at all.
I walk away from this place for one meeting and this thread gets a picture of "biggest bag of rice" :lol:
I'm not pulling the fenders or anything wild. Just pending over the underside of the edge. Real basic stuff that you can't even tell unless you run your hand on the inside of the fender. This isn't some crazy valuable classic guys. It's just a car.
It'll look something like this (https://trackhq.com/filedata/fetch?id=236949&d=1439698044)
When you stance it then this thread will go full rice. For now, its just friendly advice :lol:
I'm just installing the coilovers I've had in the garage forever, doing some basic maintenance it needs, and getting new wheels and tires. Right rear stock shock is toast. They're Bilstein PSS9s. Ride height adjustable, static damping.
None of this is extreme in the slightest and doesn't affect the value really. The car is worth $15k probably. This isn't a unicorn :huh:
It will be.
Quote from: MrH on October 03, 2018, 12:38:14 PM
Wanna buy mine? $20k and it's yours :lol:
You just told me it was maybe worth $15k.
Quote from: Xer0 on October 03, 2018, 12:27:23 PM
What don't you follow about if you don't plan to keep something long term, don't put money into it? Or a car like the S2000 is worth more the closer to stock it is? It sounds like you're desperately trying to justify your past mod choices with MrH here. This is my advice to him, not sure why are you are taking it so personally.
Also, a car like the S2000 doesn't just revert back to "stock". People buying these cars know what to look for and know exactly what the most common mods will do to it and what to watch out for with a car reverted back to stock. This isn't your average Civic that no one will care about.
For MrH, a couple of years is long term. I dont think hes planning to keep this to hand down to his kids
The only mod that will indicate any foul play are the fenders, which I doubt most buyers would even look for. How will someone know if he changed the shocks? :confused: Radio :huh: Plus you act like this is a 250 GTO or something. It's a highish mileage S2000. He will be lucky to sell it for what he paid without touching it.
Since we are offering free psychoanalyses based on posts I think people are either scared, uninformed (how do coilovers permanently alter a car :confused: ) or maybe a little jealous? But we don't have to play that game. Any time anyone talks about mods beyond wheels/tires it's the same fearmongering, shit's corny.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on October 03, 2018, 12:42:30 PM
You just told me it was maybe worth $15k.
That's what the market says. You claim it's a future unicorn. Invest now!
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 03, 2018, 12:44:10 PM
For MrH, a couple of years is long term. I dont think hes planning to keep this to hand down to his kids
The only mod that will indicate any foul play are the fenders, which I doubt most buyers would even look for. How will someone know if he changed the shocks? :confused: Radio :huh: Plus you act like this is a 250 GTO or something. It's a highish mileage S2000. He will be lucky to sell it for what he paid without touching it.
Since we are offering free psychoanalyses based on posts I think people are either scared, uninformed (how do coilovers permanently alter a car :confused: ) or maybe a little jealous? But we don't have to play that game. Any time anyone talks about mods beyond wheels/tires it's the same fearmongering, shit's corny.
I don't even know what you're arguing about right now, and why you are assuming what H is or isn't doing and for how long he may or may not do it for. Again, I'm sorry that you feel threatened that people aren't uniformly pro mod like you, but that's an issue that you need to sort out yourself. The main point is simple; its a car you don't plan on keeping so, imo, don't bother modding it. The fact that the car is most likely a future classic just adds to that. It's not as if its a terrible drive stock.
Its a message board, people give opinions, and sometimes you will disagree with them. It happens.
Quote from: MrH on October 03, 2018, 12:44:24 PM
That's what the market says. You claim it's a future unicorn. Invest now!
And if you take a loan out of your 401(k) you can double your gains!
Bone stock Supra (last gen) prices are in the stratosphere, and IMHO unmolested S2000s are the next big thing. Buyers will know to feel under the wheel wells for evidence of modding. It's Mike's car, and Mike can do as he pleases. It's just opinions from fellow enthusiasts, and nothing to get uptight about.
The car already had modifications like holes cut in the interior for more speakers iirc.
I think an S2000 is a solid investment depreciation-wise. You won't lose money on the car from this point forward.
Quote from: 68_427 on October 03, 2018, 02:40:32 PM
The car already had modifications like holes cut in the interior for more speakers iirc.
Oh wow POS.
Mike I'll give you $45 for it. That's better than you're gonna get anywhere else. And you don't even have to go through all the coilover installation effort.
$30
The car is junk. I replaced the two blown paper speakers with 4 working ones. Not original though. Tanked the value.
You'll have to pay someone to take it off your hands now.
Quote from: MrH on October 03, 2018, 06:59:48 PM
The car is junk. I replaced the two blown paper speakers with 4 working ones. Not original though. Tanked the value.
PAPER CONES ARE THE ANALOG OF THE SPEAKER WORLD HOW DARE YOU.
Quote from: MrH on October 03, 2018, 06:59:48 PM
The car is junk. I replaced the two blown paper speakers with 4 working ones. Not original though. Tanked the value.
$20
Sorry if this is in here - I don't feel like reading through 30 pages. Did you end up putting aftermarket shocks/struts on your car? How do you like them?
I think mine is overdue for new ones. I'm leaning towards stock just because I've always been really happy with the car and don't think it needs to be improved, but I also feel like I should do some due diligence.
Quote from: BimmerM3 on April 26, 2019, 02:58:43 PM
Sorry if this is in here - I don't feel like reading through 30 pages. Did you end up putting aftermarket shocks/struts on your car? How do you like them?
I think mine is overdue for new ones. I'm leaning towards stock just because I've always been really happy with the car and don't think it needs to be improved, but I also feel like I should do some due diligence.
I've been dragging this out. With the wife getting a new Mazda CX-5, I tried my best to stick the S2000 in the deal and get a new Miata out of it too. I couldn't get any dealer to commit to KBB for trade in. The dealer finance manager said it was just too much risk, because the prices for these are all over the place.
I also tried to buy a used 2016 Miata for cheap, drove 2 hours each way, dealership wouldn't hold to the numbers they committed to via email :facepalm:
Eventually I came to the conclusion, the gap to a new Miata is too big. I don't really want to spend $15k to upgrade. Maybe I'll get an ND miata years from now, but sticking with the S2000 for the foreseeable future. So now I'm committing financial seppukku and dumping money into the car.
-Ordered 949 Racing 6UL wheels, waiting for them to get in. I'll be running a square setup. 17x9, +55, 245/40/17 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. Once the wheels come in, I'll take them to Costco and get tires put on
-Dropping the car off at a local independent Honda & Acura guy to do the following maintenance: valve adjustment, spark plugs, radiator flush, oil change.
-Ordered a new timing chain tensioner. I'll do that myself once it comes in
-Once I get the wheels and tires in, I'm dropping it off at TurnIn Concepts. They're going to install Bilstein PSS9s, set ride height, alignment, and then slight fender roll to make it all fit.
Should be something like $3300 total.
At that point, the car should be 100% good to go mechanically. The rest is mostly nice to have and cosmetic stuff for me to do: dynomat some areas, install second 12 volt outlet, rig up a qi charger to hold my phone, clean the rust off my calipers and paint them or something.
TL;DR - I'll let you know how Bilstein PSS9s feel in a few weeks :lol:
IME lately Mazda dealers are the worst experience I've had so far.
I'm thinking the dealer experience is going to continue to get shittier at brands where sales are in free fall
Everything Mazda makes is down in the double digits so far this year after big sales drops the last 2 years
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on May 06, 2019, 08:43:15 AM
I'm thinking the dealer experience is going to continue to get shittier at brands where sales are in free fall
Everything Mazda makes is down in the double digits so far this year after big sales drops the last 2 years
It's the opposite of what the symptoms of that would be. I have to continue contacting these people and they have a terrible idea of what they are selling
Cuz the sales aren't high enough to keep the good salesmen? Too much turnover?
My Mazda diller friend said Mazda is in the process of upgrading dealers/dealership experience and is leaving dealers out to dry if they don't want to take on the upgrades/changes.
(https://i.imgur.com/Eir6kzC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mmJsZ3E.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZfL4oZY.jpg)
Quote from: MrH on May 06, 2019, 07:23:14 AM
I've been dragging this out. With the wife getting a new Mazda CX-5, I tried my best to stick the S2000 in the deal and get a new Miata out of it too. I couldn't get any dealer to commit to KBB for trade in. The dealer finance manager said it was just too much risk, because the prices for these are all over the place.
I also tried to buy a used 2016 Miata for cheap, drove 2 hours each way, dealership wouldn't hold to the numbers they committed to via email :facepalm:
Eventually I came to the conclusion, the gap to a new Miata is too big. I don't really want to spend $15k to upgrade. Maybe I'll get an ND miata years from now, but sticking with the S2000 for the foreseeable future. So now I'm committing financial seppukku and dumping money into the car.
-Ordered 949 Racing 6UL wheels, waiting for them to get in. I'll be running a square setup. 17x9, +55, 245/40/17 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. Once the wheels come in, I'll take them to Costco and get tires put on
-Dropping the car off at a local independent Honda & Acura guy to do the following maintenance: valve adjustment, spark plugs, radiator flush, oil change.
-Ordered a new timing chain tensioner. I'll do that myself once it comes in
-Once I get the wheels and tires in, I'm dropping it off at TurnIn Concepts. They're going to install Bilstein PSS9s, set ride height, alignment, and then slight fender roll to make it all fit.
Should be something like $3300 total.
At that point, the car should be 100% good to go mechanically. The rest is mostly nice to have and cosmetic stuff for me to do: dynomat some areas, install second 12 volt outlet, rig up a qi charger to hold my phone, clean the rust off my calipers and paint them or something.
TL;DR - I'll let you know how Bilstein PSS9s feel in a few weeks :lol:
Nice. I think I'm gonna do similar stuff - keep the current garage and spend a bunch of money getting both vehicles up to snuff. Explorer will be first because it's going on a long road trip next month, but I want to get S2000 in tiptop shape too. I won't be upgrading wheels/tires and will probably stick to OEM suspension components, but I gotta get some preventative maintenance done too in addition to the shocks.
I might do some dynomatting too. I want to cut down on the exhaust droning when the roof is up (though I don't drive it with the roof up all that much anymore).
I think your car is better than a Miata, at least as a pure enthusiast car. I am glad you're keeping it. The S2000 is much more of an icon.
Not dissing the Miata.
Quote from: MexicoCityM3 on May 13, 2019, 09:15:01 PM
I think your car is better than a Miata, at least as a pure enthusiast car. I am glad you're keeping it. The S2000 is much more of an icon.
Not dissing the Miata.
I agree. I wouldn't get an S2000 now because they're too expensive for what they are, or they're riced out, or they're in questionable condition. If you have a good S2000 that's already in your possession, then just enjoy it :mrcool:
I just got really burnt out trying to get the car right. I've dumped a lot of time into the thing already and was just sick of messing with it and thought I could squeeze a new miata in and cut my losses.
After trying so many scenarios and still looking down a $15,000 bill to upgrade has me motivated to make this work again :lol: Probably the better move. I'd feel kind of stupid spending all that time ripping the interior out and doing a full stereo system and wire job myself, only to dump the thing.
If you weren't in the wrong part of Ohio I'd totally drive over and make you let drive it.
Quote from: MexicoCityM3 on May 13, 2019, 09:15:01 PM
I think your car is better than a Miata, at least as a pure enthusiast car. I am glad you're keeping it. The S2000 is much more of an icon.
Not dissing the Miata.
So true, the S2000 is the little jewel of the almost affordable sports car class. Well worth keeping forever.
Quote from: MrH on May 13, 2019, 08:59:54 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/ZfL4oZY.jpg)
This picture makes it look like you've got a 17" on the out-side and a 16" on the back-side. :confused: :lol:
Quote from: BimmerM3 on May 13, 2019, 09:13:13 PM
Nice. I think I'm gonna do similar stuff - keep the current garage and spend a bunch of money getting both vehicles up to snuff. Explorer will be first because it's going on a long road trip next month, but I want to get S2000 in tiptop shape too. I won't be upgrading wheels/tires and will probably stick to OEM suspension components, but I gotta get some preventative maintenance done too in addition to the shocks.
I might do some dynomatting too. I want to cut down on the exhaust droning when the roof is up (though I don't drive it with the roof up all that much anymore).
Yeah, it's not a quiet car.
I'm off to order tires from Costco. I also reinstalled this radio bracket from Modifry. I order a qi charging phone dock off amazon. Need to wire in a second 12V outlet into the passenger footwell and then I'll have my phone I can drop in front and center and provide Waze and everything. Should be a pretty slick setup once it's done.
Got my Honda guy lined up for all the maintenance while on vacation. Just about everything should be done by mid June :mrcool:
$919 for tires :cry:
Quote from: MrH on May 20, 2019, 08:44:24 AM
$919 for tires :cry:
Oh boo hoo I paid $1060 for a set that will probably only last 1 year. :lol:
Quote from: CaminoRacer on May 20, 2019, 09:48:58 AM
Oh boo hoo I paid $1060 for a set that will probably only last 1 year. :lol:
Does your wife know? :lol:
$320 for some nice Hankook all terrains, and I can't seem to put a dent in them.
This car is way cooler than a Miata and you should keep it forever. What kind of tires are you looking at
Quote from: MrH on May 20, 2019, 08:44:24 AM
$919 for tires :cry:
My regular street tires cost over a grand mounted and balanced. AutoX tires cost slightly more...
Quote from: MX793 on May 20, 2019, 10:33:10 AM
My regular street tires cost over a grand mounted and balanced. AutoX tires cost slightly more...
The joys of muscle cars vs. lightweight roadsters.
Quote from: CALL_911 on May 20, 2019, 10:26:07 AM
This car is way cooler than a Miata and you should keep it forever. What kind of tires are you looking at
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
Quote from: MrH on May 20, 2019, 01:00:08 PM
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
Well that's why it's $919. Get some Westlakes! :hammerhead:
Quote from: FoMoJo on May 20, 2019, 10:06:55 AM
Does your wife know? :lol:
Yes. She watched me buy them haha. I bought her a MacBook Air for getting into grad school to balance it out a bit.
Quote from: MrH on May 26, 2019, 07:07:48 PM
Yes. She watched me buy them haha. I bought her a MacBook Air for getting into grad school to balance it out a bit.
So for the honor of having to spend a lot of money in the next two years, you two rewarded yourselves with spending a lot of money now :lol:
Either way, congrats to her! Pretty exciting. And to your tires too :ohyeah:
Quote from: Xer0 on May 26, 2019, 07:23:04 PM
So for the honor of having to spend a lot of money in the next two years, you two rewarded yourselves with spending a lot of money now :lol:
Either way, congrats to her! Pretty exciting. And to your tires too :ohyeah:
I tried to tell her it didn't make sense. I waste a ton of money on a car, so she gets to waste a ton too?
Anyways, the pay bump when she's done is so big, I'll gladly support it with a laptop and some tuition costs. Nurse practitioners make about double what nurses do.
Yeah, gotta be careful with the "even spending" idea. It can get out of hand quickly :lol:
(https://i.imgur.com/P8M8fHt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tiyFHRe.jpg)
(https://imgur.com/cAKYKNi.jpg)
NICE!!
Great looking wheels :ohyeah:. Kicks it up a couple of notches appearance wise.
Slick.
Need to ditch the neon green valve stem caps and do something about the rusty calipers. They look pretty bad.
So I knew my right rear shock was gone. It was spewing oil and it was riding like garbage. Now I know why.
When I bought the car, the previous owner didn't tell me it was in an accident ever. Carfax was totally clean. Once I got it home, I noticed the right rear quarter panel had some pretty extensive damage previously, but the body work was done pretty well. It drove fine for awhile, and then this shock went.
When they pulled the old suspension off, the piston rod on that shock was bent. I guess the seal pack held for awhile, but eventually gave out and started puking oil everywhere.
Shop did a slightly roll to the rear fenders. Fronts fit without any rolling :rockon: No rubbing so far either, despite going up in size quite a bit. 4-6 lbs lighter at each corner, 40 mm more tire in the front. 2.5" wider wheel.
The new coilovers ride great! Handling limits I haven't even touched yet (it was raining on and off yesterday and today), but it's definitely comfortable enough to daily now.
Hmmmm.........mods, rolled fenders, and an accident? Junk, I'll give you $5 for it :lol:
Really digging the new rims. Hows that ground clearance for the Ohio roads though, it looks a bit lower than stock or maybe the larger wheels just make it look like it is? Here in Chicago I feel like it would scrape left and right on everything and our potholes are no joke.
It looks really good from 30 feet for being an 18 year old car that's been in an accident. No use trying to keep it perfectly stock. The value is already gone out of it, might as well enjoy it how I like it. It'll always fetch $15k or so, but that's about it.
Yeah, it's lowered quite a bit compared to stock. Honestly, it scraped more when it just had the OEM front lip. I used to scrape at stock ride height with that on just pulling into work. It looked stupid and was cracked and scrapped so I took it off a long time ago. No scraping yet with the new ride drop. Luckily, the front and rear overhangs are so short, dips aren't an issue. Quick steering makes dodging potholes easy :lol:
Goddaaaaaaaaaaaamn that's sexy
Looks like a car
Get you a G4 Caliper paint kit! Holds up waaaaay better than spray paint! Used it on the GS 2 years ago and it still shines like new......
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-G2-BRAKE-CALIPER-PAINT-EPOXY-STYLE-KIT-HIGH-HEAT-MADE-IN-USA-FREE-SHIP/263279428695?epid=1527904450&hash=item3d4cad4457:g:uZgAAOSwZFJcm5yM:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateEnvelope!44123!US!-1
*pokes around the corner making whining sounds*
So I was driving home from work yesterday, I just thought: Wow, I'm driving this thing more in the last month than I have in the last year probably. As I thought that, looked down. Check engine light on.
O2 sensor. Need to reset the code and hope it's just an intermittent failure.
Better check your VTEC manifold grease spool tensioner for unusual wear patterns.
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on July 11, 2019, 09:24:49 AM
Better check your VTEC manifold grease spool tensioner for unusual wear patterns.
Good point. I'll check it out.
At the same time, my Chinese LED turn signal bulbs in my Accord...one went out. And then the TPMS sensor came on. I'm basically a mechanic now! :lol:
Did you try turning it off, and back on again?
Do they sell easy replacement LED bulbs or do you have to replace whole strings?
Quote from: CaminoRacer on July 11, 2019, 10:08:52 AM
Do they sell easy replacement LED bulbs or do you have to replace whole strings?
Whole strings of what? It's a bulb made up of a bunch of LEDs.
Oh ok, it's just one bulb.
Most LED taillights are a line of LEDs so that's what I was wondering about.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on July 11, 2019, 11:20:50 AM
Oh ok, it's just one bulb.
Most LED taillights are a line of LEDs so that's what I was wondering about.
Oh, these are just a single bulb. Replaced the stock halogen orange bulbs. I hate the orange reflection in the whole thing when it's sitting off.
I reset the check engine light, it came back on. Asked the dealer for a quote to replace it and it was $400+ :mask: The OEM O2 sensor is like $330 and an hour of work to change.
Bought one on RockAuto for $30, scheduled to get it swapped out today at the dealer.
Otherwise, S2000 is awesome. New suspension, wheels, and tires totally revived my love for this thing. The stance looks great. It's very low (it's settled even a little lower than the pictures above), but the overhangs are so short.
(https://i.imgur.com/p0PQ3VW.png)
I don't have that ridiculous looking lip on the front anymore), it doesn't scrap much. Ride is shockingly good for how little travel it has. Bilstein PSS were definitely a good call.
Had all that preventive maintenance done: valve adjustments, coolant flush, plugs, etc.
Only things I really need to address once this O2 sensor gets done:
- Have bad creaking noises with the top up. There are some areas you can grease to fix it apparently. Have to do that
- Need to replace a trim clip I broke
- Need to redo the rear tray the roof sits in. It rattles a bit, probably missing a screw or two or something. Same with door panels.
- Calipers need cleaning up. They're rusty.
- Everyone says the timing chain tensioners go on these all the time. I don't have any of the signs, but will probably do it as a precaution.
- Clutch buzz is pretty serious, but I'll just put up with it because it's so expensive to get a clutch replaced
Stance is Sporty approved :ohyeah:
What are the tire + wheel specs/weight?
That looks fantastic
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 08, 2019, 05:39:47 AM
Stance is Sporty approved :ohyeah:
What are the tire + wheel specs/weight?
Quote from: r0tor on October 08, 2019, 05:47:00 AM
That looks fantastic
Thanks fellas.
Stance is very sporty-esque.
Wheels are 949 Racing 6ULs. Made with a flow form process, kind of splits the difference cost wise between a forged and cast wheel. Mostly used on miatas, exocets, S2000. 17x9, +55 offset, 17.4 lbs
Tires are Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. 245/40. Here's kind of the comparison from stock to new setup:
Wheel Brand F/R/B Model Diameter Width Offset Wheel Weight (lbs) Tire Width Aspect Ratio Tire Weight (lbs) Total Weight @ Corner (lbs)
Honda F OEM 16 6.5 55 17.6 205 55 26 43.60
Honda R OEM 16 7.5 65 20.5 225 50 26 46.50
949 Racing F&R 6UL 17 9 55 17.4 245 40 23 40.4
So I ended up from a staggered setup to a square setup. Added +40 mm in width to the front tires, +20 mm in the rear. +1" in diameter, +2.5" in wheel width in the front, +1.5" in the rear. Dropped 3.2 lbs off each front corner, 6.1 lbs off each rear corner :rockon:
Suspension is just Bilstein PSS coilovers. No damping adjustability, but I learned with the BRZ it was largely a waste. Ride and performance is great on these. I have very little travel, but it's still a really comfortable ride.
Flow form wheels are the shit. And yea, 1 good shock valving curve is better than 32 shitty ones. That thing must be a blast now
Quote from: MrH on October 09, 2019, 07:38:48 AM
Thanks fellas.
Stance is very sporty-esque.
The upgrades have added greatly to the overall appearance. Well done, but you'll have to update your post picture.
Those wheels fit on Miatas?... :dance:
But how much $$??.....
More tire and less weight, always an amazing combo :clap:
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 09, 2019, 08:49:45 AM
Flow form wheels are the shit. And yea, 1 good shock valving curve is better than 32 shitty ones. That thing must be a blast now
Turn in is infinite. AP1s have really quick steering too. I can throw it into any corner. The issue is really the rear end. It's twitchy and rotates really fast. Real susceptible to mid corner balance changes, especially from off throttle. Engine spinning at 7000+ RPM has a lot of weight shift. You have to be careful not to lift abruptly at all to try to tuck the nose anything, because it'll snap on you quick. It's like a less forgiving, more manic 911 but with no weight out back to catch as it rotates :lol:
It's an experience for sure. Makes the BRZ and NC look like boring commuter cars. I can't slide this thing on on-ramps like I could with the NC though.
Quote from: AutobahnSHO on October 09, 2019, 07:09:33 PM
Those wheels fit on Miatas?... :dance:
But how much $$??.....
They make them in 15s and 16s which fit miatas better. S2000s all run the 17s for the most part because they make them in +55 offset which is a strange setup and pretty much S2000 specific.
Wheels were around $250 a piece, so it was maybe $1100 for the set shipped, and I think tires were another $840 think? It was around $2k for wheels and tires.
Got the coilovers for dirt cheap of course. :praise:
I took it to TurnIn Concepts and they did the coilover install, ride height adjustments, alignment, and they rolled the fenders in the rear just slightly. Got away without rolling the fronts by running enough camber in the front. I get a very very slight rub if I go close to full lock with a lot of speed and off camber road surface.
Hmm, maybe adjustable damping would be good. Sounds like you have too much rear rebound. Might need some more toe in too. And with the square tires that front end is gonna hold on for dear life. AP1s are notorious for snap oversteer out of the box; surprised Bilstein didn't dual that back.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 09, 2019, 09:01:36 PM
Hmm, maybe adjustable damping would be good. Sounds like you have too much rear rebound. Might need some more toe in too. And with the square tires that front end is gonna hold on for dear life. AP1s are notorious for snap oversteer out of the box; surprised Bilstein didn't dual that back.
Pretty sure it's not a damping issue. Ride and wheel control all feel good. I went from a pretty big staggered setup on a car that was already tail happy to a square setup.
I'm not too concerned. It's actually not far from ideal, but the twitchiness is inherent to the car to some degree (really low polar moment of inertia, quickest steering I've ever experienced, and a power train with a ton of inertia). I'm not drifting this thing around on the street with limits this high. I'd prefer a little oversteer than understeer too. If I really wanted to try and get it more neutral, I'd get a slightly stiffer front sway bar.
I guess if you're good with it I'm good with it :lol: When I hear oversteer I go all cupcake dog. Z had a little snap oversteer in steady state/off throttle and the G had weird slow oversteer that was rarely an issue but hard to recover from when it came.
Speaking of which, you gonna track it? :lol: I feel like you have to.
Quote from: 12,000 RPM on October 10, 2019, 07:16:39 AM
I guess if you're good with it I'm good with it :lol: When I hear oversteer I go all cupcake dog. Z had a little snap oversteer in steady state/off throttle and the G had weird slow oversteer that was rarely an issue but hard to recover from when it came.
Speaking of which, you gonna track it? :lol: I feel like you have to.
Better oversteer than understeer.
If there was something close and relatively cheap, I'd consider tracking it. Not really interested in driving all the way up to Mid Ohio or something and spending a fortune to do a weekend there. It's mostly just a fun street car.
I think I've finally accomplished with it what I wanted when I first bought it, which is: a more exciting, more raw, open top version of the BRZ. BRZ way too slow, too boring, too quiet, but the handling was phenomenal. NC miata's engine was boring. This power train is something really special. Just took a lot of years of messing with it and fixing things to get there.
Take it to Trader's World and do autox.
Quote from: MrH on October 09, 2019, 08:15:26 PM
They make them in 15s and 16s which fit miatas better. S2000s all run the 17s for the most part because they make them in +55 offset which is a strange setup and pretty much S2000 specific.
Wheels were around $250 a piece, so it was maybe $1100 for the set shipped, and I think tires were another $840 think? It was around $2k for wheels and tires.
Got the coilovers for dirt cheap of course. :praise:
I took it to TurnIn Concepts and they did the coilover install, ride height adjustments, alignment, and they rolled the fenders in the rear just slightly. Got away without rolling the fronts by running enough camber in the front. I get a very very slight rub if I go close to full lock with a lot of speed and off camber road surface.
Nice. !! :rockon:
That's too much money for me at the moment- I got a screaming deal on Scrappy and although I "want" to put a rollbar on and need to get some rust/paint done, I'm a cheapskate ...
The S2000 is alive and well. Spent the last week getting it ready for the summer. Had to do a lot of maintenance stuff.
- Oil change
- Timing chain tensioner replacement
- Soft top cleaning and protectant
- Detailed the whole thing
- Charge battery, tire pressure, etc
I thought my timing chain tensioner was fine, but it is a bit quieter with the new one. Took the car on a long drive yesterday. Whole car is buttery smooth, save for the clutch buzz sometimes. Been throwing around the idea of selling it and getting something like a new BRZ or Miata. When it's dirty, not being driven, and needs a lot of maintenance work in the dead of winter, I think about getting rid of it :lol:
But now that it's up and moving again, it's hard to deny the driving experience it provides with basically zero depreciation. 9000 RPM, loud noises, top down driving, and worth more than it was when I bought it 5 years ago. All-in, it's a very, very cheap thrill to keep around. Something like a new BRZ...I'm going to lose my ass on depreciation alone in the first few years.
I'm going to dump a little money and time into it to fix all the little things that annoy me and see if I'm still tempted to get something newer. Some basic stuff:
- Upgrade the phone holder to a Magsafe one
- Fix all the flaking trim paint by just removing it with rubbing alcohol. Seems to be the typical fix most go for.
- Swap to the OEM red honda badges. It's kind of a stupid ricer thing, but I think it makes the car look a lot more modern :huh:
- Add speed sensitive volume to the stereo. I'm constantly changing volume settings based on wind noise
- Maybe a new steering wheel or seats? Undecided here. Both are pretty expensive.
Now you've come to your senses. :ohyeah:
What really stood out after working on it this weekend (really the first time I've worked on it considerably myself. I was just trying it to a shop for maintenance before).
Getting this car on jack stands is almost impossible currently :lol: It's so low, and the jack point in the front is so deep... I need to get some ultra low profile ramps. My current ramps I can't even get up with using wood planks leading up to them. Just too steep. Even my low profile jack is too tall. Took multiple steps up with wood, then partial ramp usage, then a jack, then jack stands. :facepalm:
Keep it. Way cooler than an ND
New seat or steering wheel: Keep it OEM or OEM-equivalent. No ricer junk! Which means it'll be $$
Seats can be a PITA when dealing with aftermarket brackets and stuff. A lot of the time you end up sitting higher unless you've very careful to streamline everything
Quote from: MrH on March 22, 2021, 08:36:53 AM
- Add speed sensitive volume to the stereo. I'm constantly changing volume settings based on wind noise
I'll be curious to see your solution on this one
Bose Audiopilot(TM)?
Quote from: Rich on March 22, 2021, 08:53:50 PM
I'll be curious to see your solution on this one
A small kite attached to the volume knob through an intricate pulley system and a calibrated rubber band.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on March 22, 2021, 09:46:05 AM
New seat or steering wheel: Keep it OEM or OEM-equivalent. No ricer junk! Which means it'll be $$
Seats can be a PITA when dealing with aftermarket brackets and stuff. A lot of the time you end up sitting higher unless you've very careful to streamline everything
I'd love to find some OEM red seats in great condition, but everyone loves S2000 seats for Civics, so they're hard to find and expensive.
My bolsters are pretty sad looking on the driver side and there's some big scraps.
Quote from: Rich on March 22, 2021, 08:53:50 PM
I'll be curious to see your solution on this one
Quote from: Laconian on March 22, 2021, 08:55:08 PM
Bose Audiopilot(TM)?
Quote from: Soup DeVille on March 22, 2021, 08:58:56 PM
A small kite attached to the volume knob through an intricate pulley system and a calibrated rubber band.
:lol:
I wish it was that cool. The S2000 has that cool radio door, and all the HVAC controls and secondary audio controls are at the driver's hands. When you replace the stock head unit, you need a device that connects the secondary audio controls to the new head unit. There's a company called Modifry that makes these little devices that connect the two. Pretty much everyone with an S2000 has one. They are able to be programmed to do speed based compensation.
I already have the Modifry device installed from when I redid the whole audio system. I just need to tap into a speed sensor on the passenger side, run a wire over to the device on the driver side, and then play around with it to get it programmed right. There are 2 settings to can preset, and 14 levels of adjustment.
very nice!!!
If you sell that car it will be the one you regret getting rid of for the rest of your life. ;)
Ordered the fancy Honda accessory 4 piece carpet set. Not cheap, but the stock mats were cheap to begin with. 20 years of wear and they look pretty rough.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1168/5624/products/Floor_Mats_1024x1024.jpg?v=1569253442)
Red badges go on this weekend.
I took the center console off. The trim around the shifter had flaking paint. Everyone has this issue. So I took rubbing alcohol to it. There's a nice, real metal in dark chrome underneath. I was pretty happy with how it came out.
(https://i.imgur.com/yQXHCuo_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
Nice.
My OEM ricer type R badges took the following path with USPS. Keep in mind, I live about 30 miles from Cincinnati.
- Plymouth, MI
- Detroit, MI
- Cincinnati, OH
- Dallas, TX
- Coppell, TX
- Irving, TX
- Cincinnati, OH
:lol:
Should get delivered today after traveling around the country. I'll probably install them tonight.
Lol hopefully it just got put on the wrong truck at the Cincy hub
Quote from: MrH on April 05, 2021, 06:59:26 AM
My OEM ricer type R badges took the following path with USPS. Keep in mind, I live about 30 miles from Cincinnati.
- Plymouth, MI
- Detroit, MI
- Cincinnati, OH
- Dallas, TX
- Coppell, TX
- Irving, TX
- Cincinnati, OH
:lol:
Should get delivered today after traveling around the country. I'll probably install them tonight.
You now owe taxes in TX and MI.
Race car badges:
(https://i.imgur.com/XeVGDk2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8q7wmVn.jpg)
The trim around the shifter and roof had flaking paint. Common issue for these. Turns out, it's real metal underneath? An hour with a micro fiber towel and some rubbing alcohol got all the paint off. It's a nice dark chrome color underneath. I have no idea why these came painted from the factory, this looks much better.
(https://i.imgur.com/b184xZ1.jpg)
I took my seats out to vacuum the whole interior. I put in new "premium" floor mats that I ordered from the UK. These are apparently from Honda's Access line? It's like premium OEM stuff I guess.
(https://i.imgur.com/9o8DVne.jpg)
While I had the seats out, I decided to tackle my dead bolster on my driver's seat. Common problem in these from people basically sitting on the bolster to get in and out. Mine was totally flat.
(https://i.imgur.com/bD4bZxu.jpg)
Pulled the leather off, and yep, the foam was torn and sitting outside of the molded plastic portion that's supposed to give it shape. Sounds ridiculous, but I took duct tape, put the foam back where it should be, and covered the whole area with tape. Pulled the leather back over and attached it. Worked better than I expected! It's not perfect, the leather is pretty stretched and worn in that area, but it definitely has support now. First time driving the car with support on both sides.
(https://i.imgur.com/fPFHh05.jpg)
Oh, those red lacquered badges.. that really takes me back :lol: What's next, POWERED BY VTEC?
Quote from: Laconian on April 19, 2021, 10:42:38 AM
Oh, those red lacquered badges.. that really takes me back :lol: What's next, POWERED BY VTEC?
Yes but it needs to be a windshield banner
Quote from: CaminoRacer on April 19, 2021, 11:05:05 AM
Yes but it needs to be a windshield banner
Taking up the entire fucking windshield. Oh man, that'd be some bosozoku shit. :lol:
Underglow that flashes red when VTEC is engaged!
Quote from: MrH on April 19, 2021, 11:08:33 AM
Underglow that flashes red when VTEC is engaged!
:rockon:
Quote from: MrH on April 19, 2021, 11:08:33 AM
Underglow that flashes red when VTEC is engaged!
When I was in high school, I had all kinds of ricer LED ideas but lacked the knowledge and resources to implement them. Now that I have ample amounts of both knowledge and resources, I think that ricer LED shit is stupid.
Quote from: Laconian on April 19, 2021, 01:04:24 PM
When I was in high school, I had all kinds of ricer LED ideas but lacked the knowledge and resources to implement them. Now that I have ample amounts of both knowledge and resources, I think that ricer LED shit is stupid.
(https://tse2.mm.bing.net/th/id/OIP.dqwn310ynQL2au10rB7zfAHaEF?pid=ImgDet&rs=1)
Quote from: Laconian on April 19, 2021, 01:04:24 PM
When I was in high school, I had all kinds of ricer LED ideas but lacked the knowledge and resources to implement them. Now that I have ample amounts of both knowledge and resources, I think that ricer LED shit is stupid.
LEDs?! They were neon tubes! :lol:
Quote from: MrH on April 19, 2021, 01:14:07 PM
LEDs?! They were neon tubes! :lol:
Repurposed OPEN signs!
Quote from: Laconian on April 19, 2021, 02:56:44 PM
Repurposed OPEN signs!
A bad macrobrew neon beer sign on the door would be a good look.
Quote from: Laconian on April 19, 2021, 11:06:37 AM
Taking up the entire fucking windshield. Oh man, that'd be some bosozoku shit. :lol:
(https://y.yarn.co/6052c871-1eae-4f17-9f9e-4187474a2aac_text.gif)
nice nice nice!
Quote from: MrH on April 19, 2021, 10:34:17 AM
The trim around the shifter and roof had flaking paint. Common issue for these. Turns out, it's real metal underneath? An hour with a micro fiber towel and some rubbing alcohol got all the paint off. It's a nice dark chrome color underneath. I have no idea why these came painted from the factory, this looks much better.
(https://i.imgur.com/b184xZ1.jpg)
WTF, that is odd.
Got a BRZ order in. 2022 MY was sold out fast before I could drive one. Finally was able to test drive a dealer demo model back in late winter. 2023 MY sold out almost instantly it went live, but then I guess they released more builds into the system. I think there was a supplier constraint originally.
Current estimated delivery is December.
World Rally Blue, Limited, 6-speed manual, auto dimming homelink mirror, footwell illumination, and door scuff protectors.
Going to clean up the S2000, drive it for another month maybe, and list it for sale.
I'll trade you Jeep for s20000 :hmm:
I would appreciate a message and a price when you decide to list it.
Quote from: MrH on June 08, 2022, 02:45:21 PM
Got a BRZ order in. 2022 MY was sold out fast before I could drive one. Finally was able to test drive a dealer demo model back in late winter. 2023 MY sold out almost instantly it went live, but then I guess they released more builds into the system. I think there was a supplier constraint originally.
Current estimated delivery is December.
World Rally Blue, Limited, 6-speed manual, auto dimming homelink mirror, footwell illumination, and door scuff protectors.
Going to clean up the S2000, drive it for another month maybe, and list it for sale.
Daaaamn. Solid choice on a replacement, but still sad to hear the S2000 is moving on. Any chance you keep the S2K to build out the stable? :lol:
Ur crazy- S2000 way cooler
Quote from: Eye of the Tiger on June 08, 2022, 04:02:21 PM
I'll trade you Jeep for s20000 :hmm:
Strong offer, but I think I'm going to pass. I can't tokyo drift well enough to drive a welded rear axle Jeep everyday.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on June 08, 2022, 04:32:50 PM
I would appreciate a message and a price when you decide to list it.
If you're serious, I'll give you a bit of a price break to know it's going to a good home :lol:. Unfortunately for you, S2000 prices are comically high right now.
Quote from: giant_mtb on June 08, 2022, 04:34:08 PM
Daaaamn. Solid choice on a replacement, but still sad to hear the S2000 is moving on. Any chance you keep the S2K to build out the stable? :lol:
Sadly, no. I don't have enough space. 3 car garage only, so I'll pretty much always be limited to 2 cars myself. There's a good chance I replace the Outback with a Ford Lightning though if/when my turn in the queue finally happens.
It's probably for the better. I did bid on a house with a 2.5 car garage + 3 car garage before landing on this house last fall. I would love to do something like an exocet, but I don't have enough time, so I'd really just be stuck with a garage full of half finished projects.
Quote from: CALL_911 on June 08, 2022, 07:07:44 PM
Ur crazy- S2000 way cooler
It is a cool car. But a 22 year old car + being 6'2" + back issues has me wanting something I don't feel wedged into as much.
Congrats! That's fantastic. Can't think of a better garage than a BRZ and a Ford Lightning. Well, maybe a Bentley would be nice too :lol:
Quote from: MrH on June 09, 2022, 06:38:07 AM
Strong offer, but I think I'm going to pass. I can't tokyo drift well enough to drive a welded rear axle Jeep everyday.
If you're serious, I'll give you a bit of a price break to know it's going to a good home :lol:. Unfortunately for you, S2000 prices are comically high right now.
Sadly, no. I don't have enough space. 3 car garage only, so I'll pretty much always be limited to 2 cars myself. There's a good chance I replace the Outback with a Ford Lightning though if/when my turn in the queue finally happens.
It's probably for the better. I did bid on a house with a 2.5 car garage + 3 car garage before landing on this house last fall. I would love to do something like an exocet, but I don't have enough time, so I'd really just be stuck with a garage full of half finished projects.
It is a cool car. But a 22 year old car + being 6'2" + back issues has me wanting something I don't feel wedged into as much.
Yes, I'm serious; as in I'll seriously try to get the wife to agree. But I can't promise anything or commit to anything.
And everything's comically expensive right now, that's expected.
That's fine. It would be hard to fit the dogs in the S200000, anyway. :tounge:
Quote from: MrH on June 09, 2022, 06:38:07 AM
It is a cool car. But a 22 year old car + being 6'2" + back issues has me wanting something I don't feel wedged into as much.
In that case a supra is about a thousand times more comfortable
You see the video with Farah talking about getting into the Supra? There's also less space behind the seats in the Supra for tall peeps
Quote from: Rich on June 09, 2022, 07:27:24 PM
You see the video with Farah talking about getting into the Supra? There's also less space behind the seats in the Supra for tall peeps
I don't watch his crap, but I have sat in both at out local autoshow a month or two ago and the Supra is by far more comfortable and better ergonomically for my 6' 2" frame.
If you don't look behind you, in the Supra you would think you are in something like a BMW 4 series and the 86 feels like a 2 seater smaller than a Miata.
Quote from: r0tor on June 09, 2022, 07:01:42 PM
In that case a supra is about a thousand times more comfortable
I heard the Supra was pretty cramped inside. But that was from a pretty typical rich old guy with a $250,000 watch collection, so you never know. He did mention that when he sat it one, it felt tighter than his old F-Type.
Had a mobile PPI guy come out yesterday and look at the S2000 on behalf of a potential buyer in Washington DC. Ended up chatting with him for 2.5 hours. Big Porsche guy, and we know a lot of the same people in the car world in the area.
Learned some interesting things about the S2000. I knew it was in an accident and the passenger rear fender had been replaced. Previously owner didn't disclose it, but it was pretty clear once I started digging into the car.
- Both the door and rear fender were replaced.
- Missing a total of 3 VIN tags out of 10 because of it
- All cosmetic, nothing structural
- Blended the paint all the way up the front fender too. They did a great job matching the color, but you can tell because the paint on the front fender is basically double the thickness as the rest, and it's the original front fender
- I guess my battery clamps are stretched? He was shocked I didn't have any electrical problems, but I guess this is a common issue with Hondas
- He was a little thrown off by a slight 2nd gear crunch when cold, but that's typical for these.
Overall, it was a pretty great experience. He was really impressed with how it drove dynamically. I guess I nitpick everything as the owner. Weird experiencing it in the passenger seat.
Potential buyer is calling tonight to talk numbers. He originally wanted to fly out here on a one-way ticket and drive it to DC. I hope he doesn't do that. January & February winters in Ohio are too unpredictable, and he's going to ruin the Pilot 4S tires trying to drive it under 45 degrees. And he'll probably wreck the thing.
In other news: I have a VIN number for the BRZ. Should take delivery by end of month. I really want to get the S2000 out of here before then so I have garage space for it.
Was the PPI guy with a local company? If it's a National thing I'd like to get their info. Sounds like they do good work.
Hope everything goes smoothly
Quote from: Rich on January 03, 2023, 10:06:36 AM
Was the PPI guy with a local company? If it's a National thing I'd like to get their info. Sounds like they do good work.
Hope everything goes smoothly
Just a local guy. He mostly does insurance appraisals. If enthusiast or rare cars get totaled, he can get involved and fight to get you actual market value. Good contact to have.
Done deal. S2000 sells for $23,500. Now just need to do the escrow deal, ship the car and title.
(https://media0.giphy.com/media/LTFbyWuELIlqlXGLeZ/giphy.gif?cid=5e214886dc3b7bd31e9d3fe1d87c8ea2cee10cbe0bf13512&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g)
Quote from: MrH on January 03, 2023, 06:20:39 PM
Done deal. S2000 sells for $23,500. Now just need to do the escrow deal, ship the car and title.
(https://media0.giphy.com/media/LTFbyWuELIlqlXGLeZ/giphy.gif?cid=5e214886dc3b7bd31e9d3fe1d87c8ea2cee10cbe0bf13512&rid=giphy.gif&ct=g)
:rockon:
Congrats!
BRZ is a great choice= fun + surprisingly practical.
I think that S2000 was the longest you've had a car. Except maybe the protege.
Quote from: MrH on January 03, 2023, 06:20:39 PM
Done deal. S2000 sells for $23,500. Now just need to do the escrow deal, ship the car and title.
I hope it went to someone who keeps it in good shape for the foreseeable future; and take it out for a spin from time to time.
I still think about a couple of cars I let go a long time ago; and one not so long ago.
Good. Now I can stop thinking about whether or not I should buy it.
Quote from: Soup DeVille on January 03, 2023, 07:32:35 PM
Good. Now I can stop thinking about whether or not I should buy it.
You should buy another one
I'm still not understanding why someone would sell a S2k for a BRZ... But congrats I guess
Quote from: Rich on January 03, 2023, 06:57:04 PM
I think that S2000 was the longest you've had a car. Except maybe the protege.
I think you're right. February 2016 - January 2023. I only did something like 11k miles in it, which explains exactly why I'm selling it.
Protege5 was from 2004 to 2010 I think?
Quote from: MrH on January 04, 2023, 08:50:15 AM
I only did something like 11k miles in it, which explains exactly why I'm selling it.
That's why I drive my Miata to work. 8500 miles/year justifies it.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 04, 2023, 10:10:45 AM
That's why I drive my Miata to work. 8500 miles/year justifies it.
:orly:
That's impressive. S2000 is a bit worse of a daily than an ND miata, but it's more my drive than anything. 33 miles each way, almost entirely on I-75. There's a backroads route, but it's typically an extra 10-15 minutes.
Quote from: MrH on January 05, 2023, 10:19:34 AM
:orly:
That's impressive. S2000 is a bit worse of a daily than an ND miata, but it's more my drive than anything. 33 miles each way, almost entirely on I-75. There's a backroads route, but it's typically an extra 10-15 minutes.
ND also gets like 33-35 mpg instead of 20-23 that S2ks seem to get.
Quote from: CaminoRacer on January 05, 2023, 10:26:30 AM
ND also gets like 33-35 mpg instead of 20-23 that S2ks seem to get.
Having driven neither, I would consider the S2000 more of a thoroughbred than a Miata with the potential of producing a higher degree of sporty satisfaction per mile, so mpg should not be a factor.
Pah!!!
Scrappy is probably getting 8k+ miles/ year too, it's 44miles to work and back, and driven most days. If it's raining hard I take Civic or minivan.
Money is in escrow! He's trying to line up a transporter, and then it's gone. RIP S2000. I'll pack it up this weekend with any extra parts or things laying around.
I've never used Escrow.com before, but apparently CarGurus and eBay motors use it. Seems pretty smooth. Fees are kind of high though. $200 or so, but it's money well spent to avoid headache.
I haven't heard of that before. Sounds nice for that type of transaction
Much better than worrying!
After 2 cancellations to pickup, and a severe delay from the driver yesterday, the S2000 was finally picked up around 10:00 last night and is gone. RIP S2000
Quote from: MrH on January 12, 2023, 12:29:02 PM
After 2 cancellations to pickup, and a severe delay from the driver yesterday, the S2000 was finally picked up around 10:00 last night and is gone. RIP S2000
DIP!
Drive in peace
:facepalm:
I asked him like 5 times what the rules were for Washington DC and if I needed a notary for the title. He said I just needed to sign the title. I did, sent it to him. He went to register it, and then told me it has to be notarized. So now he sent it back to me.
The problem: I think I have to actually get a new title issued first, then notarized and signed over to him. What a mess.
Doh!
Quote from: MrH on January 25, 2023, 07:58:37 AM
:facepalm:
I asked him like 5 times what the rules were for Washington DC and if I needed a notary for the title. He said I just needed to sign the title. I did, sent it to him. He went to register it, and then told me it has to be notarized. So now he sent it back to me.
The problem: I think I have to actually get a new title issued first, then notarized and signed over to him. What a mess.
Pain in the ass. There are virtual notary services available. Not exactly sure how it works. May be able to get away with not having to get a new title.
https://onenotary.us/
Why do you have to get a new title issued first?
Title office closed yesterday for weather :lol:
I got there today. They didn't make me reissue the title. The lady just notarized it for free and I'm on my way. Just need to send it back to him and hopefully this is finally done.
:rockon:
RIP