Corvette project car

[hotrodalex]

8.5:1

[280Z Turbo]

That's quite a bit lower than 10.5:1

[hotrodalex]

Most guys still run around 10* with higher CR. But if it runs well at 4* and an unclogged carb then don't worry about it.

[280Z Turbo]

You also need to consider the vacuum advance.

[GoCougs]

Most guys still run around 10* with higher CR. But if it runs well at 4* and an unclogged carb then don't worry about it.

Chances are they've got a big cam with lots of lobe separation, or maybe AL heads or fuel injection, etc.

[Secret Chimp]

Have you checked if your mechanical advance is working?

[280Z Turbo]

Yes. We rebuilt the distributor.

[280Z Turbo]

I fixed the clog, but the float got stuck somehow and puked gas all over the motor. Got it almost reassembled, but the damn mosquitoes were making it too hard to work.

My dad used really crappy Chevy orange paint on the manifold and that's peeling up now.

[280Z Turbo]

Anyone ever buy a Robbins top?

[Rupert]

Maybe? I got a top for my old Miata in 2004 that is holding up to this day. It was a cheaper top, might have been a Robbins.

[SVT666]

http://www.autoextraparts.com/cavalier3.html

All seasun SR4 is good tire

That's a block away from where I work. 

[280Z Turbo]

That's a block away from where I work. 

Could you do me a favor?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QjTIm-vSKg

[280Z Turbo]

We fixed the carb issues and the car is running well now. I stopped in the middle of our street, reved it to 3 grand, dumped the clutch, mashed the gas...no elevens, no squeel...took a few seconds to hook up. It seems the clutch is fucked.

We pulled off the clutch inspection cover from the bellhousing and the clutch disc looked plenty thick. I noticed that the PO had out washers between the pressure plate and flywheel.

We pulled the washers out and tightened the PP back up. Now the clutch pedal goes to the floor because the release bearing isn't pressing on the springs anymore.

It seems that the car has a mystery clutch on it. It doesn't have as many "fingers" as a normal clutch. I don't know what they did, but I'd rather just start over because some moron screwed it up.

[FoMoJo]

What was wrong with the carb?

[280Z Turbo]

Clogged accelerator pump passage

[FlatBlackCaddy]

Last clutch kit I bought had a bag with about 60 washers in it.

I thought that was normal.

[280Z Turbo]

Last clutch kit I bought had a bag with about 60 washers in it.

I thought that was normal.

ADD WASHERS BETWEEN PRESSURE PLATE AND FLYWHEEEL TO REDUCE TIRE WEAR

[280Z Turbo]

I guess it's as good a time as any to rebuild the old T10. It pops out of second gear and leaks like a sieve.

Chevrolet made it very hard to remove the trans with the body on. The transmission crossmember is part of the frame and not removable.

The existing clutch is a 3 finger type instead of a diaphragm. New diaphragm clutch is on the way.

[280Z Turbo]

Clutch looks bad:

[Soup DeVille]

Yup.

[FlatBlackCaddy]

Was there anything on this car that was good?

[280Z Turbo]

No.

[280Z Turbo]

I decided early on that I only wanted to fix safety and driveability issues, not add performance or restore cosmetically. Too bad everything I dig into is either incorrect, about to fail, or already broken.

[FlatBlackCaddy]

You mean a car project turned out to require more work than you anticipated?

I've only read about such things in books and heard tales from the elders.



Well have fun, should turn out pretty nice with everything you're fixing. This is your dads car right? He better give the thing to you in a few years.

[280Z Turbo]

My dad never drives it anyway. I can drive it anytime I want, so it's as good as mine anyway.

[FlatBlackCaddy]

My dad never drives it anyway. I can drive it anytime I want, so it's as good as mine anyway.

Better yet, let him store it and pay the insurance.

[280Z Turbo]

It's a $20,000 classic car for free, effectively.

[280Z Turbo]

I'm kind of debating over when to pull the body and fix the frame. I was planning on pulling the motor out this winter and rebuilding it, but I'm wondering if it might be better to leave the oil breathing beast as is and fix the frame.

This is potentially very expensive work as sections would need to be cut out and new stuff would need to be welded in place by specialists. There's a place nearby that specializes in Corvette frame repair, but it would be expensive.

I'm concerned because the door gaps change when the car is jacked up. The passenger side door won't even open when the car is on jack stands. It's been this way for a long time, but I'm wondering if the body is holding the frame together.

[FoMoJo]

I'm kind of debating over when to pull the body and fix the frame. I was planning on pulling the motor out this winter and rebuilding it, but I'm wondering if it might be better to leave the oil breathing beast as is and fix the frame.

This is potentially very expensive work as sections would need to be cut out and new stuff would need to be welded in place by specialists. There's a place nearby that specializes in Corvette frame repair, but it would be expensive.

I'm concerned because the door gaps change when the car is jacked up. The passenger side door won't even open when the car is on jack stands. It's been this way for a long time, but I'm wondering if the body is holding the frame together.

I'd say that frame/chassis repair is an absolute must.  You might risk irreparable if it gets too stressed and something collapses.  Get the frame/chassis done and you've got a car that's worth keeping.

[FlatBlackCaddy]

I agree, its the first(and only) think you should be doing at this point. If the frame can not be repaired and made sound then you really don't have much on your hands. It needs to be fixed. Might as well bite the bullet and get it done.